KA-T PCV Routing

[StryfeS13]

I'm just finishing up my turbo setup, and of course I'm also modifying my PCV routing to work best with turbo.

I attached a hose to my PCV, and I can suck through the hose, but can not blow through the hose. However, I have heard that *IF* I could blow air at 5 PSI, I would be able to blow past the valve. So I plan to run another check valve in the line.

My question is, can I run the PCV line to vacuum block? Or does it NEED to go to the intake manifold? Example: PCV > Check Valve > Vacuum Block(ran inline with brake booster hose)

Here's some diagrams i've made real quick in paint...

I might add a catch can or two. But who knows..

[compactfean]

You can run it through the vacuum block, just remember that it sucks in oil vapors that could possibly get. Into the. Other lines on the vacuum block....if you have a map sensor hooked up there for boost control it could effect it. The PCv doesn't need a check valve if it works properly. Just do a boost leak test at whatever psi. You run and check the PCv to see if its leaking.

[StryfeS13]

You can run it through the vacuum block, just remember that it sucks in oil vapors that could possibly get. Into the. Other lines on the vacuum block....if you have a map sensor hooked up there for boost control it could effect it. The PCv doesn't need a check valve if it works properly. Just do a boost leak test at whatever psi. You run and check the PCv to see if its leaking.

I could run a catch can to catch the vapors. Or I could just stop being lazy and drill/tap the intake manifold for a 3/8" port.

The stock PCV IS a check valve. You can suck air out, but you can not blow in. The problem is, it cracks open and air seeps past at anything over 5 PSI. Therefore, I want to run my secondary check valve in the line, so that no boost can find it's way back into the crankcase.

[compactfean]

Why would you need to drill the Mani? Doesn't the ka already have a pcv line? Im not sure what pcv you are using but when I did my boost leak test I experimented with many pcv valves and the only one that would seal at 30psi is the stock sr20de steal pcv. I'd use that valve and then set it up so your secondary. Check valve sucks air through. A small catch can...I don't think. It can get any better than that.

[WDRacing]

The easiest thing to do is vent the valve cover to the atmosphere or have it plumbed pre-turbo like you have in the diagram above. If plumbed pre-turbo you're going to need an air oil separator with a washable or changeable element. Any oil that makes it past the filter will make it into you're intercooler and piping. It's not going to hurt anything, but it will eventually muck up the entire intake tract. That's what Seafoam is for

Then plug the PCV ports on the intake mani and plug the EGR port.

The only other thing I'd like to try is an electric vacuum pump, like an old GM unit. Cost about $50 from the junkyard. I hear they pull enough vacuum to help stop the block from leaking at the seals. Again, need that air oil separator, most electric pumps that are affordable don't like a long exposure to oil mist.

BTW, if you don't want to use your PCV ports on the bottom of the intake manifold I suppose you could use a T fitting off of the brake booster. The PCV valve doesn't flow much air anyway so I don't see it drawing to much vacuum from the brakes. I'd do lots of parking lot tests to be sure everything remains functional though.

WD