KA-T Help!!

[jmwenick]

Hey Guys, I need some help getting my KA-t to run right. Right now, we have the idle at about 1200 rpm, and it idles good, but then it slowly climbs to around 2100rpm, stays for about 15 seconds, then drops back to 1200. Another thing is that if I give any throttle past 4%, the car falls on its face and starts to sputter and spit, and I do all I can to keep it running. I have 370cc injectors, lo settings are -27 across the board, fuel pressure is at about 43-45psi. Any suggestions? Help me please.

[DammitBobby]

Do you have a wideband? What is your vacuum reading at idle?

[jmwenick]

nope, I don't have a wideband. Kinda ran out of money. And thats the thing, my boost gauge reads 23 at idle, but never really moves after that. Any suggestions?

[DammitBobby]

Its going to be real hard to help without a wideband because you don`t know if it is lean or rich. I would strongly suggest that you get a wideband if you are running a SAFC or get somebody to tune it for you. 2nd you need to give more info on your setup. example open maf, how is the AIC hooked up, what MAF and etc.

[Florida240sx]

Spark plugs gapped down???Droce me crazy for 2 days then smacked myself in the face when I realised it.

[KATwo40]

stock gap would be fine until he hit boost (.044"), at which point he'd misfire, most likely. But at idle it would be just fine.

Sounds to me like you might have an air leak in the intercooler piping, which wouldn't show up on the vacuum gauge. 43-45psi on the fuel is just a tad high, but shouldn't be enough to cause this problem.

I'd check for IC pipe leaks first, then move on to other stuffs.

[SeVa-S13]

Yeah, sounds like an air leak to me too...maybe check the BOV?

And that's probly 43psi of fuel pressure is with the vacuum line off, right?

[Florida240sx]

Don't have leaking injector do you? Pull your plugs and see if any are soaked....

[DammitBobby]

my boost gauge reads 23 at idle, but never really moves after that.

Doesn`t sound like an air leak when he has 23 vacuum.

[jmwenick]

Yeah, thats the only thing that confused me. Oh and the AIC is hooked up, its plumbed in from my intake. Also, would a bad MAF do this? I have the stock de MAF on it, but if that goes bad, what kind od syptoms would it have?

[KATwo40]

my boost gauge reads 23 at idle, but never really moves after that.

Doesn`t sound like an air leak when he has 23 vacuum.

Air leaks in the IC pipes won't show on the vacuum gauge, since it's plumbed into the intake manifold, downstream of the throttlebody...or at least it SHOULD be. Also, since the gauge doesn't rise when he snaps the throttle, it almost certainly indicates and air leak in the IC pipes.

Also, Florida240sx, a rich condition created by leaking injectors will cause the idle to be low, studdering and engine run quality to be chuggy (if that's a word). Lean conditions can cause the idle to rise. Once in a while, an injector O-ring can leak (upper O-ring at the top of the injector) allowing unmetered air to enter the intake stream, which could also duplicate his problem.

Ummm, to the original poster of this thread...

Not to sound retarded, but did you check that your MAF is plugged in? Also, what In and Out settings are you running on the SAFC? And be certain the Decel Air function is off for your initial startup. Get the system starting and running well before you monkey with that function. Personally, I leave mine off all the time, because it screws up the cold start fuel map and the car won't stay running in the mornings upon startup.

[jmwenick]

Ummm, to the original poster of this thread...

Not to sound retarded, but did you check that your MAF is plugged in? Also, what In and Out settings are you running on the SAFC? And be certain the Decel Air function is off for your initial startup. Get the system starting and running well before you monkey with that function. Personally, I leave mine off all the time, because it screws up the cold start fuel map and the car won't stay running in the mornings upon startup.

Don't worry, I understand you are only trying to help. But yeah, the MAF is hooked up correctly, but I do think that I had some BS in for the Decel Air settings. My hotwire settings are 5in 5 out, and sens Cal is 1 in 1 out.

[KATwo40]

Turn the decel air function off and let me know how it goes.

[jmwenick]

to do that I just set the THR to **** and the NE1 and NE2 to 0 right?

[DammitBobby]

Yes

[mr2lickit]

sounds like bad spark plugs to me. well atleast it has similiar symptoms

[KATwo40]

fouled plugs won't make the idle soar to 2k rpm.

[jmwenick]

K, Guys. I looked at it last night. I had a lot of Boost leaks and fixed all of them, I was excited and thought maybe it was that. But then I fired it up, set the idle at 800. I let it idle for a few minutes, then started to rev it up. I couldn't get it past 2500 rpm and it was running like garbage. Also I can't just step on the gas pedal, I have to tap it lightly over and over again. If I step on the pedal, I get no response and the car just wants to die. Then the idle changed somehow down to about 550rpm, then it woudn't idle at all. I checked the plugs and they were a little black, but I'll be getting some new ones shortly. What do you guys think of all this?

[Craving4Boost]

what airflow does your MAF read? if it reads 0 then something is wrong with the MAF or any other funky number. also, i had a similiar probably when my oil pan was overflowed with oil. it can idle and rev slowly, but when i give it a harder throttle, it would die. check how much oil you have...remember turbo cars need to run less oil so the oil line wont get clogged which would back up into the turbo.

[Chezedik]

remember turbo cars need to run less oil so the oil line wont get clogged which would back up into the turbo.

Can anyone else vouch for this, I have never heard of such a thing.

[DammitBobby]

remember turbo cars need to run less oil so the oil line wont get clogged which would back up into the turbo.

What he is referring to is oil backing up into the return line. If you have to run less oil then you did not weld your oil bung high enough on the oil pan.Never heard of to much oil causing the car to stall.

You have a SAFC you should be able to look at the sensor and tell what the voltage the maf is reading. It sounds more like a MAF problem or you did not wire up your SAFC correctly. Give us some info on the SAFC readings.

[KATwo40]

remember turbo cars need to run less oil so the oil line wont get clogged which would back up into the turbo.

What he is referring to is oil backing up into the return line. If you have to run less oil then you did not weld your oil bung high enough on the oil pan.Never heard of to much oil causing the car to stall.

You have a SAFC you should be able to look at the sensor and tell what the voltage the maf is reading. It sounds more like a MAF problem or you did not wire up your SAFC correctly. Give us some info on the SAFC readings.

The oil bung could be on the bottom of the pan it wouldn't back up all the way to the turbo, even if the pan had 5qts in it. In fact, it would back up higher than the oil level in the pan.

Also, yes, it sounds like a MAF problem, or maybe the SAFC is mis-wired.

[DammitBobby]

The oil bung could be on the bottom of the pan it wouldn't back up all the way to the turbo, even if the pan had 5qts in it. In fact, it would back up higher than the oil level in the pan.

That is the point if the oil is back up in the drain line then the oil will not properly drain from the turbo but that is not his problem right now anyway.

[jmwenick]

Sorry guys, I just got back from Tennessee. So now I'm back to troubleshooting. I've already bought another de MAF so that should be on the way, I'm pretty sure my SAFC wiring is correct, but I'll double check it. Also, I'll let you know what the MAF signal is reading. Thanks guys