KA-T all ready to go but wont fire...worst news on my b-day yet!!

[iknowyoulike]

okay here's the situation....i got everything finally on...lookin good and all...put plugs in...set the S-AFC to low map at 800 and 1000 to -27 so it wont flood motor on start up..so my dad sets timing for me and all and we tried to fire it up...and nothing!!!!

First we thought it was timing but that turned out to be ok after 2 hours of figuring it troughly. WHAT WE CAME TO was that the injectors were sparying WAY too much fuel into the motor that it's flooding the motor even before it cranks...whats' up with that?? i thought if i set the S-AFC before start up it'd lower the amount of fuel being sparyed? Also if i switch back to the stock 270cc would that just be me messing with a ticking time bomb? How did you guys do it..my car is spraying way too much fuel..the plugs are soaked everytime we pull them..

Would me teeing the wastegate to the vaccum line on the FPR affect that by any chance?

My set up is T25 w/Stock SR parts and 370cc.

some one help me out i want to get this running soon and enjoy it and not have spiders just continue to build webs on my meshies!!!!
Modified by iknowyoulike at 9:12 PM 9/1/2005

[DammitBobby]

Would me teeing the wastegate to the vaccum line on the FPR affect that by any chance?

No that is not your problem.

I am guessing you are running stock MAF. Make sure your MAF is connected and the connectors are clean. The other guess would be the Injector O rings could be leaking. You might want to check that as well.

[Florida240sx]

Got to be your injector o rings...What size are your upgraded injectors? I'm running 7psi on my stock injectors.Got plus 10-18% on my map. Runs great.

[IanS13]

try to kill the fuel flow at crank by this i mean when it floods remove the fuel pump relay and try to start the car, make sure your getting a spark. check the connector for you coolant temp sensor, "make sure it's clean and pluged in good".

let me know how this works

[iknowyoulike]

i will try all your guys suggestions. keep them coming..

[IanS13]

even with lagre injectors you car should still run, it will run rich as hell but it will still run.

[Structure240sx]

have you set all the safc settings?

hotwire? 5in 5 out (if using stock maf) 2in ADD out

car set up 4 cyl arrow point up to the right

put dec. air settings to about 1.0 for each jstu to get started

just put another safc in an s14 ka-t today having issues. started up perfect and got it running great

[crzycav86]

I'm gonna say you're not getting spark.

You're obviously getting fuel. However the soaked spark plugs may be due to the plugs not igniting the fuel.

It's possible that you have leaky injectors, but the likelihood of all of them leaking at the same time isn't very high.

[Titan]

have you set all the safc settings?

hotwire? 5in 5 out (if using stock maf) 2in ADD out

Is that strickly for the S14 MAF?

I have my s-afc set for 5in 5out, 1in 1out for my SOHC and it runs fine.

[Craving4Boost]

describe the sound...if its a "TTTRRR" sound its flooded...if its slow cranking its low battery, and check if you have spark with a screw driver in your wires.

a small trick is to pop the spark plug wires out a little bit...just leave them sitting on the valve cover but not "popped" in. it gives a little stronger spark.

[wild_maxx]

how long ago did you change your cap and rotor? i had this same problem when trying to start my firtst ka-t but she just wouldnt ignite the fuel. changed the cap and rotor and she fired right up. just a thought.

[Structure240sx]

Is that strickly for the S14 MAF?

I have my s-afc set for 5in 5out, 1in 1out for my SOHC and it runs fine.

the second in/out dont have as much of an effect (for cars with dual mafs), i have just noticed it to be better with 2in ADD out.

iknowyoulike- please go over your settings with us

[iknowyoulike]

cap and rotor was change early this year when i pulled the car out of winter also the plug wires where changed like about a month and a half ago it cranks like the car.

my settings on the S-afc are:5/5 in out settings **** dec air settings4 arrow up high map i have 10% at 1000 and 2000 everywhere else is 0 i figure i wont tune it yet so i won need to adjust that high yet right?low map -30 at 800 -24 at 1000 same as above 0 after 1000 am i doing something wrong....

i pulled the plugs spark is coming to the valve cover. the only thing i can think of is the dec air settings but that woundn't cause the car to not fire correct?

[iknowyoulike]

oh yeah plugs also gapped to .30

[iknowyoulike]

where's TDC again to make sure.

six markings is it the 2nd tooth or the 4th tooth

[DammitBobby]

[iknowyoulike]

thanks

[Structure240sx]

try to unplug the injectors, and let the engine crank a few times to get any raw fuel out.

make sure your FPR line is still on the FPR are all your safc connections soldered?maf plugged in?

car would still start and drive without the dec. air settings. you can jsut set each of the 3 numbers to 1.0 just to get you close.

was the distributor ever removed?

[iknowyoulike]

The line is okay but i did tee into the vaccum line for the internal wastegate. the Safc connections aren't soldered yet..i was gonna do that after i get the car running. as of rite now it's just taped with electrical tape. Maf is plugged in. the distributor was removed to fix a broken head bolt. could i have somehow put it in back wrong? is there a specific way it has to go in..?

[Craving4Boost]

taped with electrical tape? you know there should be no wires cut? except the MAF wire? either you solder them or use a crimp connector or whatever the hell its called...i call it pac-man lol...

[turbo98_240sx]

The line is okay but i did tee into the vaccum line for the internal wastegate. the Safc connections aren't soldered yet..i was gonna do that after i get the car running. as of rite now it's just taped with electrical tape. Maf is plugged in. the distributor was removed to fix a broken head bolt. could i have somehow put it in back wrong? is there a specific way it has to go in..?

I think you would be fine for a temp set up w/ only electrical tape, but make sure that there is a solid connection, and yes there is a specific way that the distributor must go in, as it should be set to your TDC setting IIRC pointing stright up for TDC on #1 cylinder, someone correct me if I am wrong, I too removed my distributor and learned this lesson, and you can alter the timing by moving it on those 2 screws that hold it into the block though if your dad set the timing I would think he knew this and was using a timing light of some sort off of the wire for #1 cylinder. Hope this helpsPeace,Pat

[iknowyoulike]

okay i pulled the 370s and now am running the 270cc and she runs but wont idle good. Idle fluxuate going up and down and when i rev it the motor hesitate. i have settings at 0 on low map but what to set the hi map too i don 't know..

Can some one tell me EXACTLY were to hook up the T25 internal waste gate and the BOV hook-up i have an RFL BOV..
Modified by iknowyoulike at 9:33 PM 9/1/2005

[Craving4Boost]

do you have a wideband? whats your AFR at idle? dont worry about hi map just leave it at 0 as well. does it idle after warm up? it should run perfectly the same because i ran a safc with everything stock and it fan good. your safc must need a better connection especially the MAF wire.

[iknowyoulike]

the wideband sits at rich and goes up to about 11-13ish and it says rich on the meter..(PLX300) vaccum reading is at about 15-18ish.

[Structure240sx]

SOLDER THE CONNECTIONS

the distributor has to be lined up just right when putting it in.

pull the dizzy out. set the engine to top dead center using a socket wrench on the crank pulley (as shown it is the 2nd fromthe left mark on the pulley lined up with the needle, i look from about a 45 degree angle to line up the marks)

on the dizzy at the end of the silver shaft there is a mark. then on the brown shaft past that there is a pin coming out both sides and a mark near one side of the pin. the pin with the mark near it gets lined up with the mark on the silver housing. the mark near the shaft pin DOES NOT get lined up with the silver housing just the shaft pin near the mark gets lined up with the silver housing

when sliding it in you have to be careful not to force it in right away. this can make the gear turn and throw off the alignment. gentyl push in til it slides in with about 1/4" to go then push it in. bolt it down. if engine doest start do it again.

you then must properly set timing. let the engine fully warm up. unplug the TPS sensor on the side of the throttle body. rpms should be at 700 if not adjsut with the idle adjustment screw on the back on the intake manifold at the #4 runner. then hook up a timing light and set timing to the right most mark on the pulley. plug the tps back in and mark sure your idle rpm is correct.

[iknowyoulike]

okay everything is up and running idles' okay now still haven't taken the car out..she can rev past 2500 i don't know why...any one? i will solder the connections tonight.

[iknowyoulike]

timing set to~15-16 degree.

[iknowyoulike]

is it a bad maf i did a search and i guess people who had similar problem says the ecu is in limp mode? how do i get out of that?