ka's running hot

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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mkory
Posts: 2321
Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2004 7:25 am
Car: Mazdaspeed Miata

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EVERYTIME I drive my car, it will start to run as any car would. But, when it finally warms up, after the needle stays in the middle for a couple minutes, it jumps way far up to hot (really hot, usually to the first dash, sometimes a little past that) hang there for about 30 seconds, then, when it starts to drop, the needle will drop within not kidding you probably 3-5 seconds. So cold, warm, insanely hot, then back to warm. And it does this no matter how hard i'm driving or whether the a/c or heat is on. Does anyone else have this same problem?


base9se
Posts: 2033
Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 5:33 am
Car: '95 240sx
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i used to...sounds like you got air pockets. here's a thread i started. explains how to get it out.. http://nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=69191

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Maverick7687
Posts: 1957
Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 6:43 pm
Car: Sagemist(FSO) 1998 Maxima SE & Charcoal Metallic(KG2) 1993 240sx & My newly aquired Pearl White 1990
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My '93 240 does, no ****, the EXACT same thing.. I took it to a shop after i had opened the bleed screw and squeezed all the air out. I didn't drive it after that until the next day when I took it to the shop. It would not overheat, so we decided that I had fixed it the night before. That was last Thursday. Yesterday when I was coming home from school it did it again, I got home, opened the screw and whaddya know, more air. Anyone know how air can get in there? Could a bad radiator cap cause it? I need to know how this **** keeps getting in there. But I believe that is your problem too because that is exactly what mine does.

Mav

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mkory
Posts: 2321
Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2004 7:25 am
Car: Mazdaspeed Miata

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where's the bleed screw?

slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

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The bleeder screw is located on top of the intake manifold, about an inch away from where the upper radiator hose connects. Remember also there is a collant drain plug on the block itself, near the bottom of the heat shield on the exhaust side(kinda PITA to get to tho).

HTH-Slip

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eddiec
Posts: 966
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 11:01 am
Car: 91 S13

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mine would overheat not long ago. for me i had to replace the thermostat. i guess through the years some crud had built up preventing it from opening easily. so it would overheat unless i operated the inside heater full blast. new thermostat, bleed air - good as new

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mkory
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Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2004 7:25 am
Car: Mazdaspeed Miata

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What's the bleeder screw actually on? It being on the manifold doesn't really make a lot of sense, being how that's for air and all. Is it necessary to flush coolant from time to time?

navysnail
Posts: 3335
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2004 1:33 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX fastback

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its on the intake manifold. the intake manifold is for air and coolant, the coolant has a seperate passage near the front. the bleed plug is a bolt near the front (closest to the front of the car) part of the manifold, and has a small gold label near it that says "DO NOT OPEN WHEN HOT"

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mkory
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Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2004 7:25 am
Car: Mazdaspeed Miata

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So how do I go about removing the air? Do I start with the car cold, and let it heat up? How will I know when its all out of there?

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eddiec
Posts: 966
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 11:01 am
Car: 91 S13

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leace the car off and just fill up the radiator with that screw out. when its full the water will start to overflow. when that happens but the screw back in. now start the car and let it run til warm and the thermostat is open. as long as the car is not scalding hot then you can open the bleeder and let any air out.

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mkory
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Joined: Sun Jul 11, 2004 7:25 am
Car: Mazdaspeed Miata

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Run 'till warm? How long would you suggest? The only thing I'd really be going from is the temp. gauge in the car, and that takes at least 20 minutes of idle to even move. What do you say? From cold to warm (real cold here, in the 30s), let it idle 5ish minutes?


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