KA removal

[coldblooded]

I'm swapping the KA24DE in my S13 for a fresh one, as I'm planning to build up a turbo for it (bought the car cheap w/ some little knocking that's recently turned into bad knocking).

I've disconnected everything and it's ready to yank...I'm just curious now what the best strategy for actually getting the motor out. I've read that dropping out of the bottom is best, but it seems like pulling the steering rack & what not is kind of a pain. Is going out of the top just not going to fit? And even if it will fit out of the top, where should I hook my hoist up at?

And yes, I searched, and I need a FSM, but it's still in the mail

[Sidewayz]

Good Question i would like to know as well. I too will be attempting pulling out my ka24e in exchange for a rebuilt one. With all the proper tools and a 2 man team it shoudnt take more the 7-10 hours pulling out the old and in with the new engine. Not including the usally run ins with bull Crap

[cnichols]

I unhooked it from the transmission, and removed the radiator....cake from there. Getting the radiator and fan out of the way gives you PLENTY of room to pull it out.

[:: orion ::]

Make sure you disconnect the battery - You'll have 2 big + leads dangling around, and you don;t want those to ground out...

Anyway, took me 8hrs working alone for the in-out part, plus another 6 doing stuff like welding the new oil pan bung, etc...

Pull it out the top using a hoist with a leveler - Raise it off the mounts, and as you continue to raise it, tilt it back so the oil pan clears the radiator cap. Once over that, tilt it back to level, watch the transmission - Don't let it hit the windshield. Roll the thing out and back...

Not too bad.

Later - Brian

[TrunkMonkey]

With all the proper tools and a 2 man team it shoudnt take more the 7-10 hours pulling out the old and in with the new engine.

Anyway, took me 8hrs working alone for the in-out part

7-10 hrs?! 8 hrs?! some of you need some practice!

seriously, the easiest way to pull a KA is through the top with the transmission attached. removing the radiator, fan and shroud gives you so much room to play with, it's almost ridiculous. the engine and transmission will slide out almost effortlessly.

-demetrius

[coldblooded]

Great info, thx everyone.

So in a nutshell, I should hook my hoist leveler chains up to the actual motor mounts? I'm used to hooking up to hanger tabs at the top of the motor or intake bolts or something high...that sounds a little tippy, but I guess it'll do.We'll find out soon enough...I pick up the engine tonight. Believe it or not, it's an imported JDM KA (probably from a truck or van or something). Pretty pricey (~$900), but it shipped in a day, and I couldn't find any JY motors w/ less than 100k for less than $600-800, so the 30-50k estimate sounded well worth it to have something that can hold up to some boost, and that I'm positive will be complete.Check out http://www.asapmotors.com/ for more info. Very professional and responsive group. Shipping was $70 for a freight carrier, not too bad.

[:: orion ::]

7-10 hrs?! 8 hrs?! some of you need some practice!

Jacking th car up, disconnecting everything (including turbo and manifold)...then draining fluids, and geting off the accesopry connections under the intake mani (and I have hands big as J-Lo's bigass - (yes, I've tested it)...so it's hard to get in there), etc...

Then swapping intake manifolds, reinstalling the oil pan and oil feed for the turbo, etc...

8hrs is QUICK (working alone) for that kind of s*** :pface

Later

[manos1984]

i have just finished swapping out my motor and i hooked the chains from my hoist to either corner of the head at the top it worked good and i had no problems doing it that way.mark

[coldblooded]

So does that imply that you had pulled the intake/exhaust manifolds to bolt your hoist up to, or was there some other attachment point on the head you used?

[:: orion ::]

Front (passenger side) of the head there are 2 holes, for a 14mm bolt...right above the water neck.

Rear of the head (drivers side) ther are 2 holes for 12mm bolt.

I used those for both the swaps I've done, no issues.

Later - Brian

[:: orion ::]

BTW - That's with the intake/exhaust manifolds ON the engine.

[coldblooded]

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Hopefully I can swap in the new engine this weekend & start driving my 240 again...I'm missing it after a week...my wife's Jeep Cherokee is certainly missing a lot in comparison.

Then I can start piecing together my turbo setup :ylsuper