deviousKA wrote:You will have to plug a passage in your l-series deck. It comes much to close to one on the ka, water/oil dont play nice together. I dont have any pictoral reference to offer, just inspect very thoroughly.
If you were to start with the Z bottom end (say, z18, z20) you would not have this problem.
edit: a couple other things to be aware of.
Small bore of the l16 will create massive shrouding of the 2.4l valves, you may even have interference in that dept. (I dont usually work with the 1.6l but 1.8+, you will have to check)
You cannot use your small bore l series gasket, the ka head without modified chambers will not compress on the proper portion of the headgasket. Go with a z series gasket or custom.
I suggest you dump that small deck height l series block and go to the medium ht 227mm like a 2.0 (l/Z). You will save a lot of time going with the z block. Also, z series timing chain setup is what you will want to use, the deck>camshaft height on the z series is same as the ka24e you are using, so as long as you have matching deck heights from whatever you use, it will bolt right up with the z hardware.
Modified by deviousKA at 7:04 PM 7/28/2005
Thanks heaps fot the help. I've spoken to zac and he reakons I could have the same problem with the valve clearances. He used an L20 which has a 85mm bore, the same as the L18. So I think I will go with that, as they are cheap. I've heard the z18 is the go, but they are hard to get around here.
I was planning to use the KA24 Head Gasket. Aparently the story is you use a z18 frontcover, timing chain and tensioner in the L series.
The reason I want to do a L16/18 shorter block is:
1 because it has to fit in a 1200, and L20b are too tall!!2 Cant be legally engineered in Aus without alot of work3 More RPM, as there is less stroke
thanks again for your help, i've heard u've even done the twin cam head conversion... I've seen some copied posts on ozdat, which is what bought me to this forum.