ka head build up

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
SLIMMY240
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im rebiulding my ka and im looking for aftermarket parts for the head, mainly some stronger valve springs. i cant find anyhting, anyone know who makes anyhting for the ka head. any infos appreciated. and yes i did search, found nothing that satisfied me.


syka24et
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Well realnissan has a race package for the SOHC. Realnissan.com

Projex240
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I know that my reply is going to show that I havent made many contributions. I am a veteran of this site since long before it changed over to NICO, and was originally on the 240sx.org site.Anyway, just wanted to state my credibility.Back to the reply...Check out raceeng.comThe company is race engineering, and they have titanium retainers, heavy duty valve springs, pistons, rods, etc..Great company and great customer service!:D

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WDRacing
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Just wondering why you wat to reinforce your valvetrain. Are you upping the rev's, changing the cams or just prefer a rock solid valvetrain?

If your keeping the stock cams and aren't looking for extended revs then the stock valvetrain will work just fine.

You could use that money elsewhere...

WD

SLIMMY240
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i am changing the cams, not really looking for higher revs, but i know theyll be up a little by the time im through, i just want the best possible biuld up really.

Projex240
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I would upgrade upgrade the valvetrain then. The stock springs will most likely hold up on sotck cams till about 72-7400 RPMS, but with bigger cams, they probably wont...better safe than sorry. Valve float can cause many problems, including needing a full head rebuild.

Projex240
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Also, if you can spare the extra green, another plus of doing a fully built head is that you have the opportunity to save a little valve-train weight. Titanium retainers can be used and will help free up a little power. What kind of cams do you plan on using?JWT has some 275's, and im not sure but i think that they are a replica of the NISMO cams available from NISMO direct.

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SLIMMY240 wrote:i am changing the cams, not really looking for higher revs, but i know theyll be up a little by the time im through, i just want the best possible biuld up really.


If your going with a longer duration and keeping the stock lift(which I recommend) I don't think the valvetrain needs to upgraded. But if you want to spend the money, more power to ya.

I'd use the extra cash to have the I/H/E sent to Extude Hone, you'll definitly see a power increase after they're done.

How far are going with your engine build up, if you don't mind me asking??

WD

SLIMMY240
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all the way. im plan on using nismo cams, then when i find them titanium springs, my intake manifold and head are going to be ported and polished. then im probably going with je pistons, but i dont think im going to change the compression, havent decided yet. i also found rods, cant remember from who though, i have it written down somewhere. probably keep the stock crank. then all apr fasteners. im getting a turbo exhaust manifold from someguy that posted on here. he said he worked at a shop that makes manifolds and makes them a few at atime as people order them for the ka. look real good. hks gt3240 turbo, wastegate, bov, intercooler and piping (maybe the skyline ic). havent really decided on all my fuel stuff yet, the injectors, regulator, pump, all that good stuff. still researching. any suggestions will be appreciated though. so basically im goin all out. i wanna be able to run somewhere around 12's when i boost it up, but will probably have it at around 10psi when im just driving around. so what you think?

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Isn't the 3240 a bit on the large side? That will have horrible lag if I'm thinking about the right turbo. Considering a HKS 2540 or 2530 for that matter was what I considered for my Skyline. I had a lag machine for 2 years. I hated it...

Other then the turbo, it sounds like you know what your doing. Lots of research always pays off.

WD

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matt0941
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If you are going for the 12 second range why not consider the T3/T4 hybrid, I am by no means an expert in the area but I would just like to hear your thought process for deciding on such a large turbo so I can critique myself.

sapix @ RHIT
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An HKS 25 series seems kind of small for 12s. I'd say go with at least a 28 series... like a 2840. The 2540s are small, and definately don't go with a 2530 unless you get alot better price than the 2540. I think with a 2840 you can hit 400hp, or pretty close. That should get you into the 12s.

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I friend of mine put his RB20DET into the low 12's, 12.1 to be exact, with a GT2835r.

I wasn't saying a 25 series would get you into the 12's. I was just referring the size difference to a turbo that doesn't produce much lag on a 2 liter.

I had a T04E on my RB20DET, it lagged like a big dog until 4500rpm. Then it pulled your teeth out till 9000 rpm. But it was horrible in traffic.

I would say the best turbine for a 2 liter is the GT3037. Other then that I would use a Hybrid T3/T4.

WD

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cnichols
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WDRacing wrote:I friend of mine put his RB20DET into the low 12's, 12.1 to be exact, with a GT2835r.

I wasn't saying a 25 series would get you into the 12's. I was just referring the size difference to a turbo that doesn't produce much lag on a 2 liter.

I had a T04E on my RB20DET, it lagged like a big dog until 4500rpm. Then it pulled your teeth out till 9000 rpm. But it was horrible in traffic.

I would say the best turbine for a 2 liter is the GT3037. Other then that I would use a Hybrid T3/T4.

WD


I agree. A T3/T4 will work great and will cost a lot less...but I've got the GT3037...if you can afford it...get it.

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matt0941
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But with the GT3037 you need to build the whole setup unlike the T4/T3 hybrid which companies offer complete kits for, correct?

SLIMMY240
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it shouldnt really have that much lag. from what ive read and heard the hks gt series have probably the best "true" ball bearings. im looking to be able to get at least 400 to the wheels, and the gt32 is good for 580, but im thinkin maybe the gt3037. although really the turbine housing isnt much bigger, its mainly the compressor wheel thats bigger. i want somehting with good response for good launches and something that will hold good boost all the way up to around 65-7000 rpm for possible road racing (maybe even highway. only thing is the exhaust inlet is gt25, not a t3. i dont know if i can get the manifold in that size , but i think hks actually makes adapter plates, but ill have to talk to the guy making the manifolds and see what he can do. check out this chart of all the gt series turbos and let me know what you think. http://hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1092

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WDRacing
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I like the GT2835R with the .73 A/R and the 3037ProS with the .68 A/R.

But thats just me, I hate lag. With a low rpm of 7000, those turbines will more then do the job.

WD

Projex240
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I agree with WD. When you have a high revving machine like an rb20, or rb26, 2jz, etc...a bigger turbo would do more ggod because of the motors ability to properly use the peaky power-band, up to 9000 rpms. When boost comes on at 4500-5000 rpm's and all you have is approximatly 2 to 2.5 thousand rpms of boost, then you've really wasted your coin. However, look at it also like this: Take your car out one night and really dig into it. when you shift, shift at the redline, and make note of where your rpms fall when you relase the clutch again. Typically, you rpms will fall closer to the rev limit than the power-band actually comes into play. Example.going from 3 to 4 gear, the revs will come back down only to 5200 or so if ia m correct. that means less than 2000 rpms of boost(on a stock rev limit). What I think WD is saying is that going with the smaller turbo wont necessarily be sacrificing power, you will actually have a more USABLE power band due to its quicker spool up.

Projex240
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And i agree, big boost and crazy power is cool, but lag is a real frustration and a pain in the ***.

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WDRacing
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Bingo...Thx Projex, for a second I thought you were reading my mind.

One more question for ya Slimmy, how much boost do you intend to run??

WD

SLIMMY240
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i think ya'll are probably right, that would be a waste. i started lookin at it more when i was at school and im thinkin maybe the gt3037. but now im kinda looking at the gt3040, only a slightly larger compressor wheel and housing, shouldnt cause too much more lag right? im planning on running around 10psi on regular driving, hopefully ill be able to push around 20 when i boost it up though. does that sound reasonable or am i falsley dreaming. this is my first engine biuld up so im unexperienced. my dads a good *** mechanic and i know enough about engines to do this, but i dont know all the little details and tricks. also what would ya'll suggest for my fuel delivery, i think 550cc inj's should be good, but what kind of regulator, maybe a different pump(or even a second one with a second tank for hard cornering). i dont know, tell me what you think. also i got a question if anyone can answer it. how will a, say hks evc or apexi avc-r, work with an xternal wastegate? will it hook up to the wastegate somehow to control how much pressure it will take to open or what? ive been trying to read on this but cant really find anything to answer my question. like i said im still learning, so if anyone could answer this question for me i'd greatly appreciate it.

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cnichols
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Everyone I've talked to isn't too fond of electronic boost controllers due to their complexity...I've got an AVC-R and haven't had a very good experience with it so far...but I'm electronically inclined and have confidence I'll figure it out. Just waiting to get everything back together.

Yes, it hooks up to the wastegate and "fools" it into thinking there is only X amount of boost when there is really Y amount of boost. As a result, the wastegate stays closed until the desired setting.

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WDRacing
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Actually, I believe the turbo's he's looking at require an external wastegate. So It will still hook up to the wastegate and open it to at whatever predetermined amount of boost. But its not dealing with a preset wastgate actuator.

I personally prefer the manual type of B/C. A nice dual stg from TurboXS has worked for me for the last 3 years.

20 psi on a built motor is quite possible.

I would only use one fuel pump. I don't like dual pumps for one reason. If one pump should fail then your motor will detonate and explode do to the lean condition created. If a single pump fails your motor just shuts down.

A single BBK 290LPH from SummitRacing will work good. You might have to modify the mount a tad bit. You also might have to swap over the fuel intake sock.

Any rising rate fuel regulator will work. JWT makes one for the KADET.

They make special tanks for autocross type racing. But I've raced around some serious twisties in my Skyline with no problems. Just don't do it on empty. WD

Projex240
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As far as the turbo goes, the 3037 isnt a bad one, but of coure as the size of the housings go up, so does lag...its really what you have for goals and what you intend to mainly use the ride for...and what you tolerance for lag is. Another thing to consider is definatley your ECU. Jim Wolf can program you ECU for any rev limit, but be careful when deciding how high you will rev your car, this cas lead to catastrophic failure of a motor. If you rev to 8000, then a bigger turbo would be good for someone with maximum power in mind. But personally, i would like to have a car with 400 rwhp and a driveable power band. This is easily attained with the build up you sound determined to complete. As for the wastegate, the manifold MUST allow for an External wastegate, due to the GT series , I BELIEVE, not utilizing an internal wastegate. As for the injectors, definatly get bigger ones, but since the stock KA fuel rail can starve the last pistons of fuel, creating a lean situation in a hurry. What i would recommend is the msd 50 lb injectors and the JWT fuel rail. Its a bit pricey, so if you can get a machine shop to make one that is of good design...do that instead. AS for the boost level....20 lbs is totally achievable. With pistons rods, cam, head rebuild, a good wastegate, a GOOD ECU and fuel managent and efficient exhuast. 20 pounds will be no problem . And cool at that.

Projex240
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Also, i like the greddy profec b...it s a simple switch of a button to go from low to high boost. Im with WD a single pump, perhaps a walbro 255 from VSI...only 100 bucks. Also the AVC-R is acutally being discontinued due to their complexity...so dont go that route.You can t even get tech support when you buy one unless you call APEX'I directly.

SLIMMY240
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yeah, i just found out about the hks evc a few days ago. it looks good. i hear what your sayin about two pumps, i geuss thats not such a good idea. the manifold does have an outlet for a wastegate. its a very good design. i think the turbo itself is going to be my hardest decision. i want something with a good powerband, but that also wont be spooling up till it cant take it any more if i run it hard. although im only going for around 400hp at the wheels, i really want something good for around 500. but ive read that the hks gt series has hardly any lag due to the design and the bearings it uses. has anyone ever used one of these turbos or had any experience with a car equipped with one? i know there is a point when the turbo can spool up so fast that it wont actually be boosting, thats why i kind of want a bigger compressor wheel so that it can tolerate it. if i can get good steady boost from around 1500-2000rpm up to my redline, ill be fine with that. again i do appreciate all the help with this.

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WDRacing
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At 20 psi and 7000 rpm, any of the T3/T4's will hang in there forever. So will the GT2835R and up. My friend runs a GT30 on his RB25 at 25 psi all the time. He runs low 12's consistantly. He's been using the turbo for over a year with problems whatsoever.

The key is to go as small as possible while maintaining a decent efficiency. Again, all of the turbo's we mention so far will do the job and then some.

WD

Projex240
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Plus...the Biggest advantage of the t3/t4 is the cost versus a gt series ball bearing...youre looking at a good 1800 to 2500 bucks easy for a 30 series.

SLIMMY240
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yeah, i think im going with the gt3037. the price is a little steep, but nothings too expensive in my eyes, i never buy anything but the best for my car. although its gonna take me probably twice as long to do this, but at least im doing it right.

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cnichols
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SLIMMY240 wrote:...but at least im doing it right.


Amen...and that's the only way.


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