KA 95 s14 runs rough after rebuild.

[tegls1]

I just rebuilt the head because I bent some valves. I did not bring it to a machine shop because the got bent on a bump start the engine never ran. Everything is stock except I ported the head myself (no flow bench.) Its not a crazy porting job just smooth out the casting marks and bumps on the intake side and open up the exhaust side about 2mm and portmatched. The issue is that the car will not hold idle it runs rough at low rpms when it reaches 1300 rpms it revs nicely up to 4.5 k then wont go higher. By the way its an Automatic. It has a slight pinging noise which tells me the timing is off but every setup I try I can never get it to run right. I currently have no fans and the belt is not attached to the water pump. On a cold motor, the car reaches operating temp after running for 5 to 10 secs. I never run it past that. What you guys think might be wrong with it? The crazy thing is this motor ran perfect before I Fuc ed it up bending the valves.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Sounds like the IAC is walking some. Is everything connected? IAC, MAF, CTS and so fourth. Its could be a number of things right now. Try your timing, try checking for codes.

[tegls1]

I got no check engine light on. I will try to see if I got the diag port and try to scan it. I dont know if the previous owner pulled the bulb. I checked all the wiring and hose and I cant see anything that is not hooked up. I pulled the injectors and they spray perfect. I got great spark new plugs and air filter. I forgot to ad I installed a EGR block off plate too. I think I will pull off my intake tommorow to see if anything is unpluged or loose. I have kind of hit a brick wall on this. I am also going to install the pulley and belt on the water pump. I have a cracked radiator and when I crank the car coolent sprays out the radiator in pulses like if the headgasket blew. WTF its a brand new gasket. Pulled the plugs and they are coated black with carbon. No coolent on them.

[OutToWinPAHC]

stop..... why the hell are you trying to run it with waterpump / radiator issues?

[tegls1]

Front end crash. The radiator is cracked around the cap. it still holds coolent. Water pump is fine I pulled off the fans and pulley to get access to the crank for timing. I actually drove the car with the radiator like that for 2 days before the rebuild and it never over heated once. I cannot install a new radiator on there untill I pull the front back out.Also the car never runs for more then 10 secs straight and about 30 -40 secs for a whole day since I got the problem.

[tegls1]

Anyone got any ideas?

[alms24sebring]

sounds likie it could be alot of things. I wonder if everything is put on right, it may be leaking air from the port and polish, a valve may not be seating right??? compression check it.

[tegls1]

I got no vacume leak. Got 178 to 181 alound compression. I messed with it some more today and I got it to run alot better . It revs nicely only the idle is rough now. I was about 4 teeth off. I am wondering how it even ran. I am getting my timing light back soon So I can get it dead on. Also the temp needle didn't even budge much this time too.

By the way dose the radiator hose ports on an altima line un with the 240? I want to do the fan conversion but I want is to look clean and stock. Thats why I would rather have the altima radiator.

[alms24sebring]

ok, fix timing. Dont know if altima radiator will fit but it would be a waste of money. You can just use the original 240 radiator. there are plenty of writeups

[tegls1]

I would be getting it because i can get one for free. I installed a boost gauge on the car so see what type of vacume the car is getting. and at 800rpms I get 3psi of vacume. When It revs past 2k It drops to around 25psi.
Modified by tegls1 at 3:32 PM 8/17/2009

[tegls1]

Anything?