K2RD Steel Braid Clutch Line?

[XdomesticGuy]

K2RD Steel Braided Clutch Line Anyone tried this one? It's only $25, even less expensive that the Phase 2 part. Might have to give it a shot!

X

[Thecollector]

My only question is whats the point? I dont see it. With brake lines, it helps apply the pressure on the calipers and not in the expanding of the lines, but a clutch line? Supposed to make you shift easier?

[SHIFTrl240]

usually if you have an old s13, the rubber ones are old and worn and can swell letting the clutch not engage fully, so this fixes that permenantly. im doing a manual swap sometime in the next 2 weeks and have already recieved this part, it looks like wonderful quality, stainless steel with a plasic/vinyl clear covering over it. all bolts and washers come with it. also it helps if you remove your dampener too while you replace this, i'm not even buyin one

[XdomesticGuy]

My only question is whats the point? I dont see it. With brake lines, it helps apply the pressure on the calipers and not in the expanding of the lines, but a clutch line? Supposed to make you shift easier?

In addition to firming up the pedal feel, if you've ever tried to bleed your clutch line, you know it's almost impossible to do with the factory loop in there. This line does away with the box and loop, making it much easier to bleed effectively.

X

[SHIFTrl240]

the k2rd one doesnt replace the factory loop, just replaces the stock rubber line from the hard line to the slave.

to take out the dampener block, just undo all of its connections, unbolt it, then bend the hard line coming from the master cyl around so that it goes to the slave line directly. have to do this without kinking the line though.

heres a website that has some pictures of the modification:http://www.zeroyon.com/pics/in....html

[XdomesticGuy]

the k2rd one doesnt replace the factory loop, just replaces the stock rubber line from the hard line to the slave.

to take out the dampener block, just undo all of its connections, unbolt it, then bend the hard line coming from the master cyl around so that it goes to the slave line directly. have to do this without kinking the line though.

heres a website that has some pictures of the modification:http://www.zeroyon.com/pics/in....html

I guess I read wrong somewhere then. You attach the steel braided line to the slave cylinder, remove the block and loop, make a slight bend in the hardline from the clutch master cylinder, then attach the other end of the steel braided line to it.

X

[nightwalker]

nice little upgrade for the factory rubber line. Sometimes that line is so old, it won't hold the pressure, and the car will creep forward even if you have your foot on the clutch pedal. It may also happen after some spirited driving, due to heat.

[XdomesticGuy]

nice little upgrade for the factory rubber line. Sometimes that line is so old, it won't hold the pressure, and the car will creep forward even if you have your foot on the clutch pedal. It may also happen after some spirited driving, due to heat.

I get that creeping sensation after a few *spirited* runs down my favorite backroads. I've always assumed that there was some air in the line and just needed to be bled out. She's got 120k on her, with no real signs of any repair work, so it looks like I'll start here on the clutch!

X

[stillmatic]

Here's another writeup on how to remove the clutch dampener: http://sr20.hybrids.jp/install....html

It's so easy. Just unbolt the hard line from the master cylinder and also the one from the dampener to slave. Connect the master cylinder hard line directly to the slave and replace the stock rubber clutch line with stainless steel if you wish. You can take out the dampener if you want to or just leave it in there. Rebleed the clutch and that's it. It should take about 30 mins at most.

[XdomesticGuy]

Here's another writeup on how to remove the clutch dampener: http://sr20.hybrids.jp/install....html

It's so easy. Just unbolt the hard line from the master cylinder and also the one from the dampener to slave. Connect the master cylinder hard line directly to the slave and replace the stock rubber clutch line with stainless steel if you wish. You can take out the dampener if you want to or just leave it in there. Rebleed the clutch and that's it. It should take about 30 mins at most.

Thanks! I think I've just about got a handle on the project now. Looks like I'll be busy this weekend!

X

[Tictakman]

sorry to bring this back but will this ss clutch line work on a s14?

Zak

[Tictakman]

nm found a kit that takes out the damper box.

Zak

[extheflow]

sorry to bring this back but will this ss clutch line work on a s14?

Zak

yes it will. i just installed one over the weekend. the K2RD one is real nice too. teflon coated.

[i2ice4m3]

Hey so the K2RD one is not made to work without the loop box, while the one by Earl's from Phase2 is?? sorry i just wanted to clarify. thanks!

[barrigas14]

no the K2RD is a copy of the Earl's while the Earl's is a copy of the Nismo...they all do the same thing...too bad i never can feel the difference.

btw i have the Earl's

[i2ice4m3]

"the k2rd one doesnt replace the factory loop, just replaces the stock rubber line from the hard line to the slave"(SHIFTrl240)

i am confused now

[SHIFTrl240]

why? read the writeups..

these are two separate upgrades here.. one is the stainless steel line.. the other is the removal of the clutch damper box

the k2rd line replaces the stock rubber line that can swell and bulge like before, with a stainless steel line that will not do so.

removing the damper block makes it much easier to bleed the clutch along with a more "sportier" feel (i guess) it also lets the clutch engage at a higher point iirc

[theronin]

i had a writeup on this, dunno if it was here, i am using their line, works awesome. get it and yes it does replace the loop.

[i2ice4m3]

so the Nismo, earl's, and k2rd are identical, and all require bending of the stock hard line?

[theronin]

just a tad of bending, nothing extreme at all. without bleeding you should have this done in 20 min

[i2ice4m3]

oh ok...i get it what SHIFTrl240 is saying now about it being two separate mods. I thought the Nismo and Earl's lines do not require bending at all. It's funny how the price varies so drastically among the three different brands. I mean..how different can you make a stainless steel line??

[llamabeta]

I have the K2RD line. Had it for about 8 months now. It really improved the response of the clutch. I removed the box and moved the clutch hard line slightly and it matched up fine. Havent had a problem with kinking or anything like that. Very well made piece. Also, by removing the dampner box you remove some distance that the fluid has to travel. It improved my shifting of the vehicle over all. Being a mixture of air/length/age. I drive an S13.

[thundachiken]

Question about bending the line- Is there a special trick to it without kinking it? A tool?

Thanks,KevinB

[SHIFTrl240]

theres a tool.. but you really don't need it.. just bend it with your hand

[thundachiken]

OK, Thanks.

[E Dogg]

how do i get one of these? the link on the 1st post no longer works

[corn322]

you can get a steel clutch line from SPL for $20http://www.splparts.com

[Onizuka]

I have the Taka stainless braided line (removes damper loop and all), easy install, feels great. I suggest picking up a new slave cylinder while your at it.

[SHIFTrl240]

(removes damper loop and all)

BLARGH!!! :boxing :angryfire

[Quach]

does soemone have a picture of the SPL (or any) ss clutch line with damper removed? i just removed my damper box, and im not really sure how the ss clutch line fits. it's the same length as the rubber line right?