okay you guys! All info will greatly be appreciated! So earlier this year I bought a K&N typhoon intake for my 2011 Altima 2.5l and I love it but the only problem with that is these past couple of months till now I've been having me SES light popping on every time it runs a p0101 code and for the life of me I have tried everything to fix this issue from cleaning to re-installing and even went and bought a new MAF and still the problem is not been resolved so my question is why is it still happening so I need to use an OBD 2 scanner to clear the codes or does a simple ECU reset do the trick which i have reset multiple times in these past few months and I also was wondering could this be a result of turbulent air flow because the maf is no less than 2 inches away from the filter but to be honest I'm a little lost I'm not sure what other possibilities their are so please any feedback is greatly appreciated

Hi and welcome to NICO Club!

The code you mention is for the MAF. If putting in a new one didn't clear the code, then something else is wrong. Usually, in the diagnoses procedure, you check current, ground and wires in addition to the sensor before replacing parts. We have the FSM for your car. The EC chapter goes into all of this. Please take a look at this link to the EC chapter.

What is interesting to me is that the FSM has nothing for code P0101. MAF errors get P0102 and P0103. So, I'm not sure about the device your using or perhaps you have the wrong car year. Also, I have no idea what is wrong with your car at this point. I guess it's just that you have a check engine light on. Do you have any drivability issues or odd behaviors? The FSM for a 2010 model has the P0101 code. Can you check your drivers door jam sticker or the placard on the firewall in the engine bay for your car's year?

Clearing codes with a scanner tool is nearly identical to clearing codes by pulling the negative battery terminal. If the code keeps coming back, then the issue is not yet fixed.

Here's a link to the EC chapter I mentioned for the 2010:
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... ma/2010/EC

and for the 2011:
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual? ... 0altima/EC

Well I checked the placard and it's 2011 and their isn't really any driveable issues only when the light pops on I notice a little difference in driveability a slight lack in power and a little extra gas consumption but I didn't find much on the service manual just that the issue is related to the maf one thing I did notice is when I have my car in idle and I blow a quick burst of air into the filter it stalls for a second like a it's a hiccup or something I don't know if that could have any part in it

Okay, seems like it must be a 2011 (can't argue with a placard). I'd use the diagnostic procedures outlines in the 2010 FSM first becasue the code number matches and maybe you have an early 2011 model. Maybe look into the procedures in the 2011 for the other codes P0102 and P0103 if the first bit of work doesn't fix things.

Blowing air into your intake doesn't seem useful for a naturally aspirated engine, especially from a compressor (I don't assume you used your mouth and a straw). Is that a tip you heard somewhere and how's it supposed to work?

Per the 2010 FSM, intake air leaks, harness conectors, EVAP control pressure sensor and air intake temperature are the things to look at. That you have a filter modification tells me to look for intake air leaks first. Perhaps the seal around the new filter isn't working, or you don't have your box clamped back together properly and tight, or a sensor was removed and not put in all the way... Anyway, I'd look for leaks.

Finally, and a slim chance, but still a chance... I have read about certain oils on reusable air filters and if they're saturated, the oils can get sucked by and put a layer onto the MAF coil and mess with it's numbers. I don't remember where I read such things. Maybe during a cleaning and refreshing filter article somewhere. I remember researching "dry" filters at the time. Have you considered putting in a stock air filter and driving for a while to see if all get's cleared up?

You CAN get issues with MAF disturbances by changing the air filter type if the filter is close to the MAF. Some of them are super b-tchy about the conditions they are mounted in. A change in flow can easily throw the MAF off.

Clean the MAF as well, that overoiled issue thing is real, I used to have to correct people all the time that overoiled the filters to then have the engine have to suck them back to the normal semi-oiled state they are supposed to be in to run correctly. The oil in the airstream then pollutes the MAF and collects onto the hot wire to tilt readings.

Put the old filter back on and see if it fixes the issue, then you'll know.

Okay well I’ll take a look into the 2010 & 2011 FSM and throw my stock one back on for a couple days along with cleaning the maf again to see if anything comes up I know I don’t over oil my filter because i have heard of oil throwing off your MAF and I’m always sceptical about how much oil I apply to the filter but blowing into the intake was a tip from one of my buddies and basically it’s meant to show whether or not your intake is succumbing to turbulent air if you blow into the filter and it stutters then the MAF is to close to the filter which Explains a lot due to my minimal space in the engine bay And turbulent air but I’ll throw my stock back on and update info on what’s going on