just wanted info about oil coolers and to show off...

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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fitch9014
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my old car...

the new one, if you haven't guessed is going to have an oil cooler, and will hopefully be faster and broken more, which it already is. my question is should i get one of the sammich plates with a thermostatic motivator?

p.s. enjoy, or don't; i don't care it's somebody else's baby now...

p.p.s. i'm such a horrible liar!!!



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float_6969
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Could you please type that a little more coherently? It's kind of hard to understand.

As for the oil cooler, I'm using one and it seems to work OK.

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fitch9014
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float_6969 wrote:Could you please type that a little more coherently? It's kind of hard to understand.

As for the oil cooler, I'm using one and it seems to work OK.
sorry, man...i was just asking about the thermostatic sandwich adaptor plate for the oil cooler. i wanted to know if it was a good investement or not, you know, just to get the engine to operating temperature sooner. thanks. which one are you using? i was looking at the inexpensive perma-cool kit.

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float_6969
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I think mine is a "Hayden" brand.

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r34 gtr
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nothing wrong with perma cool. also, the kits come with an awesome little sticker with penguins on it. i put mine on my center console, right under the radio. the sticker alone makes the kit worth it.

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fitch9014
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sweet, i love stickers!! but does anyone use one with the thermostatic sandwich plate? i mean, it's not that cold in VA, but it can get a little frosty some mornings...

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r34 gtr
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im not sure, how much oil capacity will the cooler add? i dont think it would be all that worth it for the switch plate. one more thing to go wrong. then again, i live in alabama.

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jt15833
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what different options do we have for hooking up oil coilers? is the sandwich between the filter and the block the only way? and is that reliable?

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float_6969
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They make external thermostats. They are generally more expensive, but considered more reliable and flow a greater volume.

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rico05
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I don't run a thermostat. Haven't for over a year now. Here is my How To on making it in case you need any help.

http://people.tamu.edu/~rico05/Tech/Oil_Cooler.pdf

If you want to keep it cheap, skip the SS lines and A/N fittings and go for this kit:http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

I know of several swapped S13s that run that very kit.

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fitch9014
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that was a really good writeup, i don't think i'ma worry about the thermostatic block, seeing how the extra capacity is going to make up for any oil missing from the block on a cold start, i.e. the crank capacity won't change and it's not like all the oil is going to stay in the cooler and lines

you think it'll make a difference not using threaded end lines, i mean the most pressure i've ever seen on a cold start was about 70psi, i don't think that's enough to blow the hose off if they're clamped tight

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float_6969
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Mine are all just clamped on and have been like that for over a year. No problems so far.

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rico05
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I went with the SS lines and A/N fittings for pure aesthetic value. My mom gave me a $100 gift card to Summit, so I used it on my setup...which cost a whopping $280 to make. Not cheap. To save a buck, just use rubber hose and good clamps.

But I do get compliments all the time on my cooler. You gotta admit, it looks pretty baller

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float_6969
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Hey, did you ever verify that if you stabbed a hole in the filter that the oil would drain out and not leak all over?

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rico05
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Yep. For the most part. There is always a little oil in it that ends up running out, but not a full filter load.

I also run a Fram HP1 racing filter now. Good stuff.

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fitch9014
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float_6969 wrote:Hey, did you ever verify that if you stabbed a hole in the filter that the oil would drain out and not leak all over?
are you refering to the sadistic method of removing oil filters? or just that because the filter is remote located and the system is closed that it won't leak when stabbed?

...and $280 is cheaper than the greddy anyday...

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eds13
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lovin the wheels! gotta love the old school

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ch187
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im not really familiar with the whole blow-by system but dont they need vacuum to function and not breather filters? i guess i never understood that

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fitch9014
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ch187 wrote:im not really familiar with the whole blow-by system but dont they need vacuum to function and not breather filters? i guess i never understood that
if you're refering to the pics, i'm not going to do that again...

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rico05
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fitch9014 wrote:are you refering to the sadistic method of removing oil filters? or just that because the filter is remote located and the system is closed that it won't leak when stabbed?
He is referring to the fact that the filter is upside down in my setup. You stab a hole in the top of the filter so that it drains the oil in it (breaks the vacuum) so that when you take it off, there is a not a filters worth of oil that spills out. This is a major problem if you run a larger filter than stock (mine is like 2.5-3X bigger than the stock filter).


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