Well guys i recieved the most crutial part of my setup today and here it is in all its glory.
the setup will consist of
t3/t4 60 trim .63 ar turbo revhard manifold550cc sidefeed injectorscustom made downpipe custom intercooler pipingblitz dual drive bovturbosmart 38mm waste gatemegan racing large intercooler 25x12x3custom oil feel return linescustom short runner intake manifoldwalbro 255 highflow pump6 puck ceramic clutch disk and custom pressure plate.
thats it so far the first tune will be in the 350whp region and come next few months ill be throwing in arp studs top and bottom rods and pistons and 750cc injectors.
Modified by scarboroughdub at 10:51 PM 10/25/2005
Just recieved my bikirom megaboard, Now The KA-T project can begin.
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1WheelWonder
- Posts: 961
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 11:16 am
- Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx
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superDorifto
- Posts: 1306
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
- Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped - Location: CT
Re: Just recieved my bikirom megaboard, Now Th ... (scarboroughdub)
i really want to here about your experience with the board once you get it install and start to tune with it. ive pretty much decided that i want a bikrom as well, im just not ready to get it...considering the engine is still outta the car. post lots of pics.
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scarboroughdub
Re: Just recieved my bikirom megaboard, Now Th ... (superDorifto)
ill definitly keep you guys posted im gonna try to install it tonight and the turbo next week as i have reading week.
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koukiKA240
- Posts: 566
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:18 am
- Car: 1991 240sx KA-T
im about to close the deal on a new to me s13 DE ecu. A friend of mine ripped the JWT program off my current ecu, ive got the .bin file on my computer, to put on the stock DE s13 ecu with bikirom, i have high hopes and have heard a lot of good things about it.
j/w how long did it take to get to you since theu are comming from AU?~Sam
j/w how long did it take to get to you since theu are comming from AU?~Sam
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scarboroughdub
Re: (NateDogg)
it took about 5 days to my door.
about the jwt file i dont think it will work cause its a bin file biki .bik files
about the jwt file i dont think it will work cause its a bin file biki .bik files
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koukiKA240
- Posts: 566
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:18 am
- Car: 1991 240sx KA-T
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driftin2trance
- Posts: 633
- Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 8:35 pm
- Car: 96 240sx
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koukiKA240
- Posts: 566
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:18 am
- Car: 1991 240sx KA-T
my descrambled JWT burn is in .bin format
http://forum.bikirom.com/viewt...t=jwt
according to that the bikirom rom editor can read and change .bin files just as it can change .bik files~Sam
http://forum.bikirom.com/viewt...t=jwt
according to that the bikirom rom editor can read and change .bin files just as it can change .bik files~Sam
Re: (koukiKA240)
if possible send that rom over here [email protected]koukiKA240 wrote:my descrambled JWT burn is in .bin format
http://forum.bikirom.com/viewt...t=jwt
according to that the bikirom rom editor can read and change .bin files just as it can change .bik files~Sam
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koukiKA240
- Posts: 566
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:18 am
- Car: 1991 240sx KA-T
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scarboroughdub
Re: (koukiKA240)
THESE METHODS WORKED FOR ME (NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SREW UP)
well i have finished the installation and with minimal problems the car runs off the new board now, the current program that is in there is a stock na ka24de s14 bin with some tweaks from your trully.
i must say the car feels much smoother and more responsive then with the oem setup.
either way here is a step by step and what is needed to get it done.
tools needed-philips screw drivers (small and mediem sized)-fine tipped soldering iron (radioshack) no more than 30watts-0.8mm light duty solder (radioshack)-fine tipped knife-Household vacuum-drinking straw-electrical tape-wire strippers or sharp knife-steady hands
step 1 get your ecu from the car
step 2 remove both top and bottom ecu covers using the larger philips
step 3 removing solder from the 40x1 header on the ecu
yes this is a vacuum
what you will do is get your electrical tape and drinking straw and tape it to the nozzle sealing it air tight with the electrical tape.
be sure to also put some tape on the tip of the straw this will act as a seal and also prevent static arc's
i know i know everybody knows never use a vacuum around electronics well a traditional solder sucker wasnt cutting it and this method took me a total of 2 minutes.
once you have it rigged up stand the ecu up and from one side apply the straw with the vacuum on and from the other heat up the solder with the iron once the solder heats up and melts the vacuum will suck it up.
and here is the 40x1 header with all the solder removed and cleaned and ready for the next steps.
front of the board
back of the board
you may need to use the soldering iron afterwards to clean up and pick up some of the left over solder. make sure there are no shorts in between each hole.
step 4 inserting the 40x1 ribbon
this is a simple process just make sure each pin is going in straight and verify on the back side. this applies to both the biki board and ecu.
step 5 solder the 40 pins on both boards thats 80 pins
this is the most nerve wrecking moment the process
once the pins are sticking out what you want to do is place the 0.8mm solder at the base of the board where the pin comes out through the holes and while your holding your solder there touch the tip of the pin with the soldering iron. once you see the solder melting allow this to happen for about 2-3 seconds, what this does is it allows the solder to flow down the hole and builds on top giving you a proper connection. youll notice that from the other side the hole will also be filled with solder.
repeat this step 80 times and your almost there.
once your done your ribbon should be soldered on both the bikimegaboard and your ecu and should look like this.
step 6 soldering the consult wires.
the three wires that you are concerned about are the BLUE,GREEN,YELLOWwires. take them and run them through the side of the ecu to the under side, leaving the RED and BLACK wires up top.
you will solder these wires to the 3 pins on the underside of the ecu
Blue - pin 65 (TX out) Green - pin 64 (RX in)Yellow - pin 68 (SCI CLK)
the way i did this is stip only 2 mm of the wire tip to expose the bare wire and heat it with the soldering iron and then melt some solder onto the wire this will keep all the individual wires together. then heat up the pin on the ecu and dab a small amout of solder onto it, once done heat the solder up that you just dabbed and apply the wire to the melted solder once it cools your connected. be careful not th use too much solder.
The RED and BLACK wires get soldered to the pins on the top of the ecu
Red - 12v Pin 38 Black ground pin 106
this is simple just strip the wire and solder it on.
Step 7 checking everything
go over every solder point with your eye under a good light and with a magnifying glass to see if you might have solder 2 pins together accidentally if you were careful you woudnt have if you did then you better fix it now then later
this is very important and i suggest your triple check.
Step 8 securing the Megaboard to the ecu
this is simple just be snug with the screws make sure to not over tighten.
the usb port will not fit until you bend the red L.E.D over once done it will fit fine
THe Tools
and that is it now you can go fire up the car and it will still run on the internal rom until you remove jumper R001 on the backside of the board.
the reason you want to leave the jumper in place is so that you can copy your ecu's original program and save once youve done that you can remove the jumper by heating it with the iron and prying it away, at this point the ecu will read its bin file off the megaboard.
i have noticed that you need to have certain programs from microsoft to make the bikisoft software work properly so you will need
service pack 2.net framework version 2.0
.net downloadhttp://www.microsoft.com/downl...ng=en
and thats it if you got any questions let me know or you can check the manufacturers forums at http://forum.bikirom.com/
well i have finished the installation and with minimal problems the car runs off the new board now, the current program that is in there is a stock na ka24de s14 bin with some tweaks from your trully.
i must say the car feels much smoother and more responsive then with the oem setup.
either way here is a step by step and what is needed to get it done.
tools needed-philips screw drivers (small and mediem sized)-fine tipped soldering iron (radioshack) no more than 30watts-0.8mm light duty solder (radioshack)-fine tipped knife-Household vacuum-drinking straw-electrical tape-wire strippers or sharp knife-steady hands
step 1 get your ecu from the car
step 2 remove both top and bottom ecu covers using the larger philips
step 3 removing solder from the 40x1 header on the ecu
yes this is a vacuum
what you will do is get your electrical tape and drinking straw and tape it to the nozzle sealing it air tight with the electrical tape.
be sure to also put some tape on the tip of the straw this will act as a seal and also prevent static arc's
i know i know everybody knows never use a vacuum around electronics well a traditional solder sucker wasnt cutting it and this method took me a total of 2 minutes.
once you have it rigged up stand the ecu up and from one side apply the straw with the vacuum on and from the other heat up the solder with the iron once the solder heats up and melts the vacuum will suck it up.
and here is the 40x1 header with all the solder removed and cleaned and ready for the next steps.
front of the board
back of the board
you may need to use the soldering iron afterwards to clean up and pick up some of the left over solder. make sure there are no shorts in between each hole.
step 4 inserting the 40x1 ribbon
this is a simple process just make sure each pin is going in straight and verify on the back side. this applies to both the biki board and ecu.
step 5 solder the 40 pins on both boards thats 80 pins
this is the most nerve wrecking moment the process
once the pins are sticking out what you want to do is place the 0.8mm solder at the base of the board where the pin comes out through the holes and while your holding your solder there touch the tip of the pin with the soldering iron. once you see the solder melting allow this to happen for about 2-3 seconds, what this does is it allows the solder to flow down the hole and builds on top giving you a proper connection. youll notice that from the other side the hole will also be filled with solder.
repeat this step 80 times and your almost there.
once your done your ribbon should be soldered on both the bikimegaboard and your ecu and should look like this.
step 6 soldering the consult wires.
the three wires that you are concerned about are the BLUE,GREEN,YELLOWwires. take them and run them through the side of the ecu to the under side, leaving the RED and BLACK wires up top.
you will solder these wires to the 3 pins on the underside of the ecu
Blue - pin 65 (TX out) Green - pin 64 (RX in)Yellow - pin 68 (SCI CLK)
the way i did this is stip only 2 mm of the wire tip to expose the bare wire and heat it with the soldering iron and then melt some solder onto the wire this will keep all the individual wires together. then heat up the pin on the ecu and dab a small amout of solder onto it, once done heat the solder up that you just dabbed and apply the wire to the melted solder once it cools your connected. be careful not th use too much solder.
The RED and BLACK wires get soldered to the pins on the top of the ecu
Red - 12v Pin 38 Black ground pin 106
this is simple just strip the wire and solder it on.
Step 7 checking everything
go over every solder point with your eye under a good light and with a magnifying glass to see if you might have solder 2 pins together accidentally if you were careful you woudnt have if you did then you better fix it now then later
this is very important and i suggest your triple check.
Step 8 securing the Megaboard to the ecu
this is simple just be snug with the screws make sure to not over tighten.
the usb port will not fit until you bend the red L.E.D over once done it will fit fine
THe Tools
and that is it now you can go fire up the car and it will still run on the internal rom until you remove jumper R001 on the backside of the board.
the reason you want to leave the jumper in place is so that you can copy your ecu's original program and save once youve done that you can remove the jumper by heating it with the iron and prying it away, at this point the ecu will read its bin file off the megaboard.
i have noticed that you need to have certain programs from microsoft to make the bikisoft software work properly so you will need
service pack 2.net framework version 2.0
.net downloadhttp://www.microsoft.com/downl...ng=en
and thats it if you got any questions let me know or you can check the manufacturers forums at http://forum.bikirom.com/
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koukiKA240
- Posts: 566
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:18 am
- Car: 1991 240sx KA-T
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Maverick7687
- Posts: 1957
- Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 6:43 pm
- Car: Sagemist(FSO) 1998 Maxima SE & Charcoal Metallic(KG2) 1993 240sx & My newly aquired Pearl White 1990
- Contact:
Re: (Maverick7687)
So the bikirom comes with a preloaded KA24DE setup?
EDIT: Nevermind, I believe you're saying that you loaded a .rom into it.
EDIT: Nevermind, I believe you're saying that you loaded a .rom into it.
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Maverick7687
- Posts: 1957
- Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 6:43 pm
- Car: Sagemist(FSO) 1998 Maxima SE & Charcoal Metallic(KG2) 1993 240sx & My newly aquired Pearl White 1990
- Contact:
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superDorifto
- Posts: 1306
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 1:13 pm
- Car: 1997 Eclipse Spyder - AWD/5spd swap in progress
1995 Q45 - 5spd swap in progress
1984 200sx hatch(KA-t swap) - 355WHP
1991/1993/1995/1997 240s - Dead
1982 200sx hatch - fixed/scrapped - Location: CT
Re: (Maverick7687)
great write up...good photos too.