Just put on my Whiteline swaybars

Post by **ColumbusDrift** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

Like the subject line says, I finally put my front and rear adjustable Whiteline swaybars and really love them, but have a few questions about setting them to different settings. My question lies with how to adjust the front and rear swaybars. They didn't come with instructions and was wondering what setting was full stiff and what would be ideal for driving daily on them. I also installed the tension control rod bushings and noticed a huge difference in driver feedback, no more mushy play in the front end. I still have to install the other rear bushings and springs, but won't do the springs until I can afford some AGX's (I have no money). Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Post by **kevie88** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

Sorry I don't have any answers to your q's, but I'll offer a bump

I just ordered some Whiteline bars and I'd like to know the answers to this as well.

My question for you tho is: Does the front bar hang lower than the stock one? I'm having a little trouble with the clearance of my RB20 oil pan and the stock bar, and I heard the whiteline bar is lower and adds more clearance around the oil pan...

Any pics of the bars in place?

Post by **flyfishz** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

sorta off your subject question... but did you install a Whiteline bushing kit in your car? was it hard to do? how much did it cost? How is the car compared to stock? Smooth? Noisey?

Thanks

Post by **Auto-X 240** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

to stiffen a swaybar you shorten the length of the ends. Meaning, the hole closest to the end of the bar is the softest setting. The hole furthest form the end of the bar is the stiffest setting.

Post by **ColumbusDrift** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

flyfishz- I have only installed the tension control rod bushings in the car so far because they needed it the most and were a sinch to install by using a arbour press at my work. It really isn't a hard thing to do if you have the right tools and metal spacers to take the bushings in and out. The car with the tc bushings and whiteline swaybars already feel tighter than stock...I would definelely recommend them to anyone. I paid an arm and a leg from PDM racing do to their retarded and unavoidable money transfer system just to get my parts instead of the traditional take my credit card and be done because I was a first time buyer. All together it was a little over $850 for everything said and done. but i wouldn't recommend dealing with pdm racing because of these stupid policies.

kevie88- The front does actually hang down a little lower than stock so I think that may possibly help you in your situation. No pics of the setup yet, but i can get some if i borrow one of my friends digital camera. I keep you updated. probably sunday i can borrow someones

Auto-X 240- Thank you for that advice. Do you have these adjustable whiteline sway bars too. and if so what settings do you use?

Post by **flyfishz** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

Thanks for the info.

Post by **Q45tech** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

For the most neutral setting IN DRY set the rear the stiffest and the front the softest........assuming stock springs.

The more sway bar stiffness you use at each end the greater the slip angle at that end........your front is under tired for the weight shift so more bar just makes matters worse.

Example: On "t" packages Nissan softens the front and stiffens the rear......... to reduce DRY under steer.

If a bar has a 6" arm hole and 40 pounds of wheel rate [my guess on a 20mm rear bar coupled at the midpoint of lower rear arm] at the 6" point moving to the 5" point [6/5=1.2 or 20% stiffer yielding 48 pounds of wheel rate].

Important to make sure the rear roll stiffness is always less than the front plus 5%..........if 55/45 f/r static weight then the front should have 60% of the roll stiffness to avoid power oversteer in wet...............stock is usually 70-75% on the front [latter no rear bar or small 15mm rear bar].

Post by **toledo240** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

Hey whats up colmbus drift its mike!! You satisfied with the whitelines huh?? I got those agx's on finally!! Definitley satisfied with them!!!!

Post by **toledo240** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

Oh yeah I almost forgot your not the only one now with 2 240's !!!! Im bout to get a 89 fastback that runs perfect for 400 bucks, High miles but who car perfect drifter! he's also throwing me all four calipers off his 300zx tt he's parting out for free!! Im trying to see if I can get his fuel pump to.

Post by **ColumbusDrift** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

Mike, That is awesome that you got all those suspension pieces on. How does the setup look? Is it alot stiffer? You need to put up a pic of your ride some time. It's about time you got a screen name for this forum. BTW, are you really going to get another 240? From who? Keep me updated...

Q45tech, Thanks for the very detailed response and wealth of knowledge. I will try to play with the settings this coming weekend when I get some freetime. I am pretty much looking for a neutral setting/feeling. One quick question though...I'm hearing a weird noise while braking from i think the swaybars or something any advice? The noise scares me. I know I installed them and double checked to see that everything was tight.

Post by **toledo240** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

The setup is very stiff i was going down dorr street right by dana corporation and i hit a groove in the road at about 60mph. I swear to you it made me jump out of my seat. I have it set at 2 in front 4 in back you think thats ok? This guy im getting the 240 froma guy that put it in the paper for 750 obo. He has a 300zx and he needs to buy a new transmission for it. I got him all the way to 350. It needs body work badly but I have a couple months to work on it. Improbably going to prime the top and trunk like you did. What did you use for primer and paint? What other parts of a 300zx should I get from him, that can be helpful down the road if I get to sr20? The guy doesn't know anything about 240's so he basically goiving me parts for dirt cheap

Post by **ColumbusDrift** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

I'm not sure about the settings on the shocks and struts, but do a search on some of the threads on the forums. As for the body work, make sure that you wetsand the rust down to the bare metal and fill in the low spots with either a spot glaze or bondo filler as neccessary then wetsand it down or repeat the steps as necessary. then finally prime it with the cheapest black primer from murrays next to jeds. if you plan on not repainting the car then you might want to put some type of paint on top of the primer so that it doesn't soak up all the moisture from rain and such. If it is a newer 300ZX try to get the calipers, rotors, and brake master cylinder from the guy...although he will probably need them if he is going to buy a transmission and drive it though. try to also get the lsd or whole axle setup from him as it is normally the same R200 lsd that will match up with you diff. If you plan on getting a SR20DET then you will also want an upgraded fuel pump and better injectors in which the 300ZX has better i think, but someone can correct me on this if i am wrong. BTW, who put the springs and shocks/struts on for you? Hadi? Did you get an alignment yet? Don't look to hard mike for a SR20DET, those guys from Ann Arbor might be able to get one for you...but not exactly sure on that so don't count on it for sure.

Post by **toledo240** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

I put the shocks and struts on. My friends dad has a shop downtown and I got off work one day and he let come down and put my car up the lift. I basically did alot of it but he helped me with alot with things I couldn't do. and showed what I had to do. Its was a pain getting the rubber bump stops off the the stock suspension and then putting it back on the kyb. I dont know how anyone can get those off without the compresser safely. But I gave him a hundred bucks for letting me use his shop and tools. I was there for a good 4 or 5 hours. I also need an alignment bad!!Well the guy is never going to run this 91 300zx, since he has two of them. His other one is what he's getting the transmission. I thought about the lsd but this 300zx is a twin turbo. Dont a need a nonturbo?Oh yeah remember that white 240 we checked out. Well I talk to the guy thay owns it and he tried to tell me that it had front wheel drive not rear wheel drive? Is there any such thing for a 240? HE wants to bet me 50 bucks its fwd.Could it be he has HICAS? He also said it was a 1990, wasn't it a 1993?

Post by **ColumbusDrift** » Fri Sep 19, 2003 3:29 am

There is no possible way that it is fwd, whether it has hicas or not, you should take his $50 (his bet). And it had the non-pignose bumper indicating it is an 91 or newer 240 unless he changed bumpers and put a newer one on an 89-90, but i highly doubt that. just check on the inside of the driver's door in daylight and you can see the year it was made right next to the vin #. How much does the guy want for the 300tt with the bad transmission? Yes, you probably don't want the lsd and such if it is a tt.

Just put on my Whiteline swaybars

Just put on my Whiteline swaybars

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