Just put new clutch in and pedal is at floor

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WAbernethy
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Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:13 am

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I just finished putting my motor back in and I put in a new clutch. The pedal is almost all the way at the floor and it dosen't release the clutch when I press it the rest of the way down. I bled some fluid out and didn't really get any air. What could it be? I still haven't finished hooking up the motor so I haven't even had it running yet. I'll get that done later today. Anybody got any ideas as to what I ****ed up?


IveBeenBad
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Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2003 11:53 am
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX Fastback STOCK BIOTCH

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sounds like you have air trapped somewhere... that or your clutch fork isnt on the pivot.

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WAbernethy
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Yeah, I hope the fork didn't come off the pivot. How is that thing supposed to stick out? Is it supposed to be more toward the front or back or in the middle? In other words, how far should the shaft have to move out of the slave cylinder before it contacts the end of the fork?

IveBeenBad
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX Fastback STOCK BIOTCH

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WAbernethy wrote:Yeah, I hope the fork didn't come off the pivot. How is that thing supposed to stick out? Is it supposed to be more toward the front or back or in the middle? In other words, how far should the shaft have to move out of the slave cylinder before it contacts the end of the fork?


it should be on there at all times....

navysnail
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX fastback

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there is a small silver ball that the fork pivots on, there is a spot on the fork that fits over it, kinda like a little cup or dent in the fork.make sure you bled it right and that the fork is attatched to the throw out bearing right.

DGA
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Have you bleed the distributor block. I hear that it is a pain in the butt to bleed that thing. It is prone to trapping air. If its still on there, remove it in fuly. Just route your clutch line straight into the slave cylinder. Easier to bleed, and no adverse affects.

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chandler
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Car: 91 civic hb & 96 S14

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loosen the nut on the rod connected to the clutch pedal, twist the rod till your pedal is firm, then adjust it so it has about 1/2 an inch of play till it starts to engage, thats your problem

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p00t
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when you bleed the clutch you have to bleed the dampener loop, then the slave cylinder, then the dampener loop again... its def a pain in the ***.... use up 1/8 a bottle of brake fluid or so per bleed.... and make sure no little bubbles are flowin out.

have someone look at the slave cylinder while you move the clutch pedal... if the pedal goes to the floor but the slave only moved the pivot fork slightly... then you have air in your lines. If the pedal goes all the way to the floor easily and the pivot fork moves ALOT ... well... now your up ****s creek... must have put the clips on wrong or something with the fork... sorry :(

AFYI the part of the fork sticking out of the transmission should be angled forward a little...

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WAbernethy
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I finally got it running and the clutch seems to disengage now. The pedal still feels low. Also, clutch slipped a little one time I gave it gas and the boost started to come on.

navysnail
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX fastback

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dont drive the clutch hard for at least 500 miles or you will damage it

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extheflow
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keep bleeding the clutch..it's a big pain made easier if you remove the clutch damper.make sure you bleed the hell out of it before you go messing with the pedal adjustment.

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WAbernethy
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It seems as if the problem has worked itself out. I strarted driving the car a little at a time and the pedal got better and better each time. It seems like the pressure plate and clutch just needed to seat down on each other a little more. I drove it about 60 miles today with no problem. Hopefully within the next week I'll have it broken in and the engine pretty well broken in too. The engine needs a few good floggings before it really is good and broken in.


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