just ordered a weber 34/34 DGEC

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2kredz3
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got it off ebay, the whole install kit cost me $248 shipped, will also be installing my long tube headers this weekend and doing my own custom exhaust. question i have is, is the weber 34/34 going to make a lot of difference in drive ability over stock and also what emissions components can i remove when i install this carb.

thanks.


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breadbox
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I don't know what you can take off exactly but nice price on the 34/34.

Better throttle response for sure tho.

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PEZi
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when you put the new carb on you'll automatically realize certain vacuum lines don't go up to it any more... those lines will lead to the stuff you can take off

2kredz3
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Okay kwel, what all do you have running off the vacuum for the distributor advance? right now there is the temp switch on the intake but i have that by passed because it ran funny with it connected then it y's again just before the distributor to pick up the charcoal canister from the fuel tank. is that correct?

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PEZi
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as far as i know... everything off of the distributor advance can be ridded of... you just need to weld the distributor... i dunno for sure all the other pieces to it yet cause i haven't replaced the carb

what i have done is sealed all my emissions lines up like the EGR so that they don't work... but are still connected

2kredz3
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where do you weld the distributor? I just put a new distributor on, so i might skip this.

I installed the headers yesterday along with a thrush fully welded muffler and the sound is amazing for a 4 cyl. I am running 2.5" from the header back which at first i thought might be over kill but the Z24 seems to like the dramatic decrease in back pressure. I only had one problem with the headers, they appear to be full length headers for a 2wd so they are touching the 4wd crossmember, i havent figured out how i am going to fix that yet.


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PEZi
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i haven't welded the distributor yet so i dunno exactly... but from what i can tell is you just weld the spot where the vacuum line would be

as far as the headers... they don't look like 2wd because mine are much shorter for ground clearance reasons... i think yours are supposed to be longer since you're higher up

2kredz3
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Ill take some more pics of where they hit.

2kredz3
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i just took this pic and the header has bent around where the contact was made. i really think these are 2wd headers since that crossmemeber wouldnnt be on the 2wd model. problem is i have no idea who made these headers since i bought them off craigslist.


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PEZi
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well like i said... those headers are much MUCH longer than mine... i'd say almost twice as long before they bend backwards... so i don't believe that they are 2wd headers... but probably not made for your truck either... i don't actually know tho

2kredz3
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hmmm, they match up with the head good with no leaks so ill figure it out.

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PEZi
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this isn't exactly what mine look like... but the size is roughly the same... i think its pretty obvious they are quite a bit shorter than yours are


2kredz3
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yeah that is a totally different design then what i have. hmm, i wonder where these came from?

2kredz3
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UPS says it has been delivered to my house we will see when i get home

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PEZi
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huh? did you order new ones?

if they're the pacesetter strip the factory paint before you install them!!!

2kredz3
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PEZi720 wrote:huh? did you order new ones?

if they're the pacesetter strip the factory paint before you install them!!!
no, the carb came in today. . .turns out the headers are from 86.5+ which makes sense since those models had equal length half shafts from the front diff

now, about the carb. . .can anyone post up how they have theres mounted?

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breadbox
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meaning what Direction is it oriented?

I want to see a pic of the carb too.

And if the headers are only hung up one place go to an exhaust shop and have them fix it. If you think you know what needs to be done to correct the error tell them and they may suggest something better. Should not cost much at least not where I would go.

2kredz3
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breadbox wrote:meaning what Direction is it oriented?

I want to see a pic of the carb too.

And if the headers are only hung up one place go to an exhaust shop and have them fix it. If you think you know what needs to be done to correct the error tell them and they may suggest something better. Should not cost much at least not where I would go.
well to me it seems like the carb is on there backwards, but it literally doesnt fit any other way. if you flip it around so the linkage is on the back side like stock the linkage the new linkage bracket does not fit the bolts on the frender side of the intake manifold. i tried to re-position the adapter plate but it to only goes on one way. everything works, but i cant help to feel that it should not be that way with the throttle cable


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breadbox
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be glad the throttle linkage isn't in the back I hate that about the stock hitachi.

that thing looks nice! I want one now.

How does it sound and feel now?

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breadbox
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Does it run as is in the picture? no problems? I might get one just to clean up the engine bay.

2kredz3
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yeah it runs great, much improved throttle response and tq in the low end is a lot better. I have uncovered another problem with the truck tho. . .it wont rev over 4k (which it started doing that when i changed the header out so i thought it was the old carb) i have narrowed it down to a spark issue. . .so once i get that fixed hopefully i can give a full review.

im kicking myself now, i just ordered this carb and i came into work today and showed it to my boss and he was like yeah i am a red-line dealer and could have got that for you. sigh :-( oh well. everything lines up right with the carb mounted this way and it runs great so i am going to leave it. i had to drill out the bracket to accept the throttle cable but other then that i didnt have to mod anything.

just a side note, make sure you have a fuel pump that can push 3.5 psi and a regulator to make sure it stays at 3.5 psi. neither come with the carb.

2kredz3
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more pictures:


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PEZi
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3.5 psi??? i've heard webers don't like anything over 3.0... strange

looks good tho... any idea if it would be good as a performance application??? i was thinking of using the 38/38 but heard it can bog down at low rpms a little more than i'd like... yours would be better down low but i wonder about the high revs and hard cornering

2kredz3
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PEZi720 wrote:3.5 psi??? i've heard webers don't like anything over 3.0... strange

looks good tho... any idea if it would be good as a performance application??? i was thinking of using the 38/38 but heard it can bog down at low rpms a little more than i'd like... yours would be better down low but i wonder about the high revs and hard cornering
that is what the manual says for psi. I think it would work great in a performance app. honestly i drive the s*** out of this truck on the street :-)

I am thinking that i need a cam now to wake up the top end, iv been doing research trying to find out why this thing falls on its face above 4200 rpms, and basically that is where the stock cam is built to rev to. even the aftermarket cams only go up to 4800ish to 5100 so we will see what happsn. at the moment i am realizing i need to revamp the ignition devision before i do anything else.

ill keep everyone updated on that stuff, i will also be "tuning" the carb over the next few days. It is running a little lean still (long tube headers and 2.5" exhaust to blame for that)

flinterman2000
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Weight of parts and the length of the stroke limit the revs. It shure looks kool tho.

2kredz3
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Alright, making head way on tuning. seems that the factory throttle cable is not long enough to operate the linkage on the carb. i was only getting about 65% full throttle and i had to supply a return spring because one didnt come with the carb. i was able to get the linkage to go about 90% (65% the secondary wasnt even opening) so now that i have the secondary the truck is a lot more peppy from 4k to 5k rpms.

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breadbox
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MMMMM, yeah thats awesome! I may look into this after I get it running on one of the hitachi pos carbs.

flinterman2000
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Will keep posted to see your progress. They rearly go above 5.5 even with performance cams. later:yesnod

seang
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I read that naps-z engines can't run cams with lots of duration and overlap because the valves will run into each other. But there are some choices. I ran into this the other day, http://www.upgrademotoring.com...e.htm, scroll down halfway to the Mikuni Muscle Cam. These have been discontinued, but they appear to have some in the warehouse, good price too at 95 dollars. There are other companies that offer cams for the naps-z engine, too. A cam from a z20 engine is already better than the z24, so if you come across one for cheap thats still good, that would be cool.

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PEZi
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napz's have the issue of intake failure for the lack of high end power... the manifold itself seems built for torque over power

the mikuni muscle cam is what i hope to pick up or maybe a custom regrind

other than that just make sure you get that the cable to open 100% and tune it to run just a tad bit rich


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