Just installed Stillen Tension rods...

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DrewQ45
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...Finally...

They've been sitting new in the box for a year now. Both OEM tension rods had cracked rubber and were leaking fluid.

Put two new front tires on last week and leaving now to get the car aligned. Will post any noticable differences in feel when I get back.

Drew


99q45t_vl
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Where are the pix???

DrewQ45
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99q45t_vl wrote:Where are the pix???
I like the subtle way you asked for pics.... real smooth. I did take some though. Will post when I get a chance.

I guess my OEM tension rods were not bad at all since I basically feel little or no difference after installing the Stillens. (my pocket knows the difference though)... maybe a slightly harsher ride on the front end. Haven't tried them at high speed yet. For some reason, cops were crawling all over the place today. One pulled me over for "running" a stop sign in my subdivision. Anyway, I played nice and got sent off with a courtesy warning.

To me, not a mod worth the money... stick with pressing in OEM bushings if cheaper when you need tension rods. Oh, the big advantage? Caster adjustability.

...Drew...

99q45t_vl
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Yes, very subtle, even polite way of asking As I said in my other posts, I'm going to replace factory TC rods w/ the adjustable ones - still waiting for the brown UPS truck to deliver them

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elwesso
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are the stillen rods similar to the SPL ones?? I definitely noticed a difference with mine...

DrewQ45
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elwesso wrote:are the stillen rods similar to the SPL ones?? I definitely noticed a difference with mine...
I'm pretty good at feeling differences too....Again, I haven't flogged it yet.... just puttering around town...

Slim and I had a discussion about it. He theorized that my OEM rods must have been in pretty good condition so the difference in feel would be less than if I were upgrading from shot rods. My rods had some minor cracks and minor leakage (I think the leakage may have come from other sources such as oil dripping etc) but the rubber was not separating from the housing. Will post pics (I know I keep promising).

BTW, while at Slim, I went next door to Conyers muffler and had them cut two bad three inch sections out of my both exhaust pipe (there were cracks in both pipes just after the cats and after the join ) and weld in new pipe. Best 65 bucks I ever spent. Stock Exhaust with NO leaks.

Q now idles quietly with wisps of exhaust smoke being the only indicator of engine running from 15 feet away.

P.S. My alignment guy couldnt believe the mileage...says my engine sounds and acts like new. (Mobil 1)

...Drew...

steaminhotryce
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I got the SPL tension rods installed in my S14 to replace the busted and leaky stock tension rods. They are the upgraded beefier version ("version 2"). I IMMEDIATELY noticed the steering response especially at high speeds. I also notice the ride being a bit more rough. You guys should really check out the tension rods from SPL. They're thicker in diameter than Teins. Well worth my money in my opinion especially if you also need to change your tension rods. But if you don't, just stick with the stock ones for now. After you swap them, you also have to get alignment as DrewQ45 mentioned. I haven't got mine done yet because I'm waiting until I get new tires. My car leans to the right =<
Modified by steaminhotryce at 12:45 PM 12/8/2005

99q45t_vl
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Aren't those SPLs made out of aluminum? What about the force resistance? Is aluminum better than steel?

steaminhotryce
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Here are the specs straight from SPL:

Construction:

Anodized 32mm billet T-6061 aluminum main rod, spacers

Chrome plated steel buckle, jam nuts

3/4" (~19mm) 2-piece teflon-lined chromoly rod end 21,400lb static load rating

Seals-It rod end seals

DrewQ45
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Judging by the weight, the Stillens seem to be all steel except for the flared cones which are definately aluminum. It's good to lube/grease up these parts when installing since two dissimilar metals in contact with each other tend to cause oxidation (rust).

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rsiwicki
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I have my adjustables tension rods sitting in my trunk for the last 60 days waiting to be installed. I have the front right caster off from when I got cut off in traffic and bent the wheel so I ordered adjustables from the courtesy nissan site....can't remember what brand they are. I will have them installed before the end of the year and report back. My tension rods must be bad as I don't ever recall replacing them before so I should hopefully notice a difference.

DrewQ45
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You'll need 4 17 mm bolts about 1.5" long....unless they were provided with your rods. My $tealinn rod instructions said to use the bolts on the car, however, I sure the ****ers knew that the OEM rods have studs installed. That was my first and last product brought from those rapists.

...Drew...
Modified by DrewQ45 at 3:39 PM 12/15/2005

Q45denver
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Just replaced the tension rods on one of my 1995's- at 120k miles they were toast. I was amazed at the improvement in ride quality. ALmost like getting new shocks.

DrewQ45
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99q45t_vl wrote:Where are the pix???
Here are the pics I promised

Old Tie Rods… They look a mess but that fluid was not from the rod...





I now have all these items installed on my Q.



New rod installed….





…Drew…

SardarQ
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Was this easy to do??? My are going bad ... look just like yours. Is pulling out the tie rod and pushing in the new rubber hard? In other words is it do-able at home?

A write up would be great - if you have some time

Thanks


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rsiwicki
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I know this is a stupid quesiton, but do I need the nuts for the bolts also or can I reuse the factory nuts? I think I have the bolts in the setup I have got, but not 100% as I am away from my car for the last 4 weeks.

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elwesso
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rsiwicki wrote:I know this is a stupid quesiton, but do I need the nuts for the bolts also or can I reuse the factory nuts? I think I have the bolts in the setup I have got, but not 100% as I am away from my car for the last 4 weeks.
no... which is pretty stupid!!! the factory ones are pressed in studs, and you cant really get em out.

DrewQ45
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elwesso wrote:
no... which is pretty stupid!!! the factory ones are pressed in studs, and you cant really get em out.
Wes beat me to it... I had typed this earlier but was so busy at work I'm just getting to post it now...
rsiwicki wrote:I know this is a stupid quesiton, but do I need the nuts for the bolts also or can I reuse the factory nuts? I think I have the bolts in the setup I have got, but not 100% as I am away from my car for the last 4 weeks.
Riswicki....Nothing stupid about it. Stupid was when I was using a hammer to try and bang the studs out of the factory Rods. I gave Wes a call and he set me straight. Are you switching to an after-market rod? You can reuse the factory nuts. You'll need four 17 mm bolts if they were not provided though. Rougly 1.5" long is good.

Sardar.... check out the pics. I didn't press in any rubber. I removed the entire rod and replaced with Stillen solid tension rods. You jack up the front end, place the car on stands, then pull off the rods. There are three 17mm nuts to pull on each rod for removal. Putting in is just the reverse. The plastic engine shield may need to be pulled a little and bent to allow access to the tension rod nuts facing the front.

If you plan to go OEM, you can purchase the inserts, press out the old rubber and press in the new. I suppose you'll need a shop to do that part but do the rest yourself and save some $$$.

...Drew..

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RobertsnewQ
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You can do the Energy suspension poly ones if you want to go cheap. They sure go in easy, but you don't get adjustability.

THere is a company that I saw at SEMA with adjustable tension rods with hard rubber bushings - same dia. as stock but no silicone crap inside.


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