Just installed oil pressure gauge, 40 PSI at idle?
Just installed oil pressure gauge, 40 PSI at idle?
Hey all, I just installed my oil gauge and I'm reading 40 PSI at idle, it goes to about 85-90 PSI near redline. Isn't this kinda high? I thought it was supposed to be around 20 or so. I check the nylon routing and there is no kinks or anything. Does it need to be bled or something? or should I not worry about it too much?
Re: (Nathan)
Hmm, yeah, I drove it for about 10 mins last night and it was at normal operating temp. When I first installed it it was at like 60 psi, but then eventually went down to 40 where it seems to be staying, I guess I'll drive it around longer to see if it goes down.
Re: (TurboKA37)
Autometer Lunar Mechanical Oil Pressure. For the adapter(s) I recommend going with McMaster-Carr. I only paid 16.78 including shipping for the 1/8 BSPT to NPT adapter going into block. The 2 1/8 NPT FxFxM Tees. And one 1/8 NPT to BSPT adapter for the original oil pressure switch. Clearance is good too, I'll have some pics up here later. If you want your setup like mine part nos are: http://www.mcmaster.com/TurboKA37 wrote:which gauge brand do you have? i have the autometer oil pressure gauge im going to install and was wondering if you used some adapters and splitters to retain the oil pressure switch
50785 K219 - Extruded brass threaded pipe fitting 1/8 FxFxM, Tee4092 K26 - 316 SS Threaded precision pipe fitting 1/8 BSPT F X 1/8 NPT M 4092 K11 - 316 SS Threaded precision pipe fitting 1/8 NPT F X 1/8 BSPT M
Yeah, its mechanical. And I actually got to do some extended highway driving and it still sits at 40PSI like a rock. 50PSI city crusing and 60-65PSI hiway driving.Nathan wrote:Yeah, is it mechanical or electrical? I'm guessing mechanical from your question of bleeding it. I prefer mechanical, electricals suck (I had a bad experience).
Re: (Nathan)
Hope these pictures come out alrite.Here is a pic of the oil adapter, the only think it comes close to is the alternator harness - and it clears that by about an inch.
Here is the nylon routing. (No kinks!) And I rechecked where it goes thru the firewall and up thru the pillar pod yesterday.
Here is the gauge sitting at 40PSI like a rock, bottom gauge. I know its hard to see, but increments are in 20PSI and this is warmed up and at idle. (250 rpms high, but I just started it)
BTW, bandwidth will probably get used up quick and then the pics will be down. Anyone else have another hosting method?
Here is the nylon routing. (No kinks!) And I rechecked where it goes thru the firewall and up thru the pillar pod yesterday.
Here is the gauge sitting at 40PSI like a rock, bottom gauge. I know its hard to see, but increments are in 20PSI and this is warmed up and at idle. (250 rpms high, but I just started it)
BTW, bandwidth will probably get used up quick and then the pics will be down. Anyone else have another hosting method?
wow, thanks alot for the help on adapters and the pics! ive got the electrical gauge but the adapters are still needed since i want to retain the pressure switchNathan: yea, i know you can just retap the origonal port but i would like the dummy light just incase. also, what were your bad experiances with electrical gauges? i just dont like the idea of running a pressurized oil line into the cabin.thnx
Well, apparently they sent me the wrong sending unit for my gauge, so it read WAY wrong and freaked me out. Once I figured that out I went to install a cheapass gauge from autozone and promptly BROKE the f*** electrical sending unit, THEN I broke off the damned adapter (yes, the brass 1/8bspt-1/8npt adapter...it split down the middle). I finally said f*** it and re-tapped the hole, I couldn't be happier about doing that Also, the mechanical gauge has always been accurate and reliable, and it was under 20 bucks. You just cant beat that...