Just installed FMIC, now I have overheating issues.

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
User avatar
Vkoslak
Posts: 696
Joined: Sun Feb 16, 2003 11:20 am
Car: 1992 240SX SE rb26dett, 2004 Subaru Forester
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Contact:

Post

My rb20det in my s13 is now overheating since my installation of the FMIC (apexi) yesterday. I have a koyo racing radiator and a single 12" puller fan (with shroud). The car will overheat when I'm not even pushing it. 45mph in 5th and the temp gauge will steadily rise.

Any suggestions?

I am thinking of putting a 10" pusher on the drivers side of the radiator since te 12" puller is on the passenger side. I have no room between power steering pump and radiator for another puller.

I plan on getting ducting made, but I have no skills in that area, and my mechanic is booked solid today since a lot of people have the day off.

Guess I can try to put side mount on so I can still drive it.

I was driving it without an intercooler, just keeping the rpms real low, and I never had any cooling issues.


User avatar
rb240det
Posts: 261
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2005 8:12 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatchback and 1994 300zx

Post

How big is the front mount? Maybe it's blocking airflow to the radiator?

RB20DETodd
Posts: 3763
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:30 pm
Car: 92 Nissan S13 coupe SE RB20DET

Post

Vkoslak wrote:My rb20det in my s13 is now overheating since my installation of the FMIC (apexi) yesterday. I have a koyo racing radiator and a single 12" puller fan (with shroud). The car will overheat when I'm not even pushing it. 45mph in 5th and the temp gauge will steadily rise.

Any suggestions?

I am thinking of putting a 10" pusher on the drivers side of the radiator since te 12" puller is on the passenger side. I have no room between power steering pump and radiator for another puller.

I plan on getting ducting made, but I have no skills in that area, and my mechanic is booked solid today since a lot of people have the day off.

Guess I can try to put side mount on so I can still drive it.

I was driving it without an intercooler, just keeping the rpms real low, and I never had any cooling issues.
I had the same problem with my fmic, all i did was put in a COPPER koyo oem replacement radiator, 2 12 inch puller fans and a bottle of watter wetter, and the most important thing, ducting on the bottom between the fmic and radiator and on the sides, you probobly have a big hole between your radiator and fmic, ducting is the key.

Imissmyturbo
Posts: 757
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2003 1:55 pm
Car: Car's, Turbo's, sking
Contact:

Post

RB20DETodd wrote:
I had the same problem with my fmic, all i did was put in a COPPER koyo oem replacement radiator, 2 12 inch puller fans and a bottle of watter wetter, and the most important thing, ducting on the bottom between the fmic and radiator and on the sides, you probobly have a big hole between your radiator and fmic, ducting is the key.
What he said is correct. I had the same problem as well. I also opened up some of the bumper above the FMIC to get more air over the FMIC and radiator. I also run a weak coolent/water mix for better cooling. I keep it around 25% coolent. And water/wetter works well.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

Post

What do you make the ducting out of and where do you get ahold of it? I'm assuming its made of aluminum for durability, cost, and weight, but what about details like gauge? What did you use for fasteners? Can anybody please elaborate on this?

RB20DETodd
Posts: 3763
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:30 pm
Car: 92 Nissan S13 coupe SE RB20DET

Post

Darius wrote:What do you make the ducting out of and where do you get ahold of it? I'm assuming its made of aluminum for durability, cost, and weight, but what about details like gauge? What did you use for fasteners? Can anybody please elaborate on this?
i have aircraft aluminum sheet metal where i work i used that, worked well, lowes or home depot should have somthing.

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

Post

did you use sheet screws, rivets, or something else to attach the aluminum?

User avatar
Vkoslak
Posts: 696
Joined: Sun Feb 16, 2003 11:20 am
Car: 1992 240SX SE rb26dett, 2004 Subaru Forester
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Contact:

Post

Went by homes despot last night picked up some galvanized sheet metal. Took some measurements, then cut to fit. Shoved the front part in above where the front lip attaches and the rear angles up to where the bumper used to attach in front of the condensor. Its held on with zip ties. lol

Drove it to work this morning, stop and go traffic, no overheating. It is rather cool out today so that may have helped too. Still need more/better fans.

RB20DETodd
Posts: 3763
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:30 pm
Car: 92 Nissan S13 coupe SE RB20DET

Post

Vkoslak wrote:Went by homes despot last night picked up some galvanized sheet metal. Took some measurements, then cut to fit. Shoved the front part in above where the front lip attaches and the rear angles up to where the bumper used to attach in front of the condensor. Its held on with zip ties. lol

Drove it to work this morning, stop and go traffic, no overheating. It is rather cool out today so that may have helped too. Still need more/better fans.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

Im pretty happy with those, ive had them in 10'' and now 12 and theyre pretty good.


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”