just install jwt pop charger but...

[skwertle]

hey guys maybe u can help me out,

i just installed a jwt pop charger on my car and now my engine dies right after it starts unless i give it some gas.

what do i do?

help,Jimmy

[skwertle]

just a thought.. i don't know maybe this could be the cause of my problem.

but the air temp sensor that is usually in the housing of the air filter is no longer in there. i just left it dangling of the little post that it sit on right outside the pop charger.

is that ok?

thanks,Jimmy

[skwertle]

ok.. was resetting the ecu when i noticed that white smoke started to come out of my exhaust. this is prolly bad. so i'm gonna put back on my old filter.

what does white smoke mean?

and if anybody has any ideas about how to get my pop charger to work would be great. i still really want it in my car

thanks,Jimmy

[MaineExport]

The JWT intake doesn't come with an adapter for the IAT sensor?? WOW that sucks! White smoke is usually a cracked head or bad head gasket (usually). The temp sensor would not likely cause the car to die out. It sounds like the MAFS might not be attached correctly. If you start the car normally... then disconnect the intake... it will stall out because the MAFS doesn't get a reading. Check to make sure your connections are all snug. White smoke can also be moisture burning off..... but not likely.

[Nismo_Freak]

White smoke is also Synthetic oil burning...

[s14=pimpin']

yeah, I have the same problem too. Well, no white smoke, but my car idle is funny right at start up, whether hot or cold, I have to give it gas or it will die. I installed my IAT sensor right in the middle of my cone intake, inside of the mesh. I haven't seen the JWT pop charger set up, but if it is prone to moisture, then I wouldn't set up the iat sensor at the end of the intake.

Wriggle your MAF around, I did and it temporarily solved the problem. Its strange, but I can unplug my MAF while the car is running, and it won't stall on me! Sounds like its going to, then VROOOOOOOOOM, back to life.

A throttle body cleaning and replacement of my plugs and fuel filter helped improve the idle issue, but didn't solve it.

[Anand]

When I put my pop charger on, I had the same problem. Check and see inside the MAF. There is a little sensor like thingy. If you have damaged it then you are screwed. Make SURE you have not damaged it cuz if you have then you will need to get a new one and a new one form Nissan is like $500. You can search the net for junk yeards and get one for cheaper. I jacked up mine and had to get the MAF from some junk yard in NJ. I live in CA. It took like a week and my car was sitting there the whole time. I bout it for like $60 instead of $500. but double check it. That might be the problem. Becuase this sounds exactly like what was going on with my car.

also when you press the gas, does you car sound like it is gasping for air??? if so then that is your problem!!

[skwertle]

Damn you guys are good!

yeah it was my MAF. I didn't plug it all the way in. After i did that everything was good and no white smoke.

thanks alot,Jimmy =)

[MaineExport]

Damn you guys are good!

yeah it was my MAF. I didn't plug it all the way in. After i did that everything was good and no white smoke.

thanks alot,Jimmy =)

Your welcome.... every now and then I get one right!!

[R240NA]

just a thought.. i don't know maybe this could be the cause of my problem.

but the air temp sensor that is usually in the housing of the air filter is no longer in there. i just left it dangling of the little post that it sit on right outside the pop charger.

is that ok?

thanks,Jimmy

For the record, the intake air temp sensor is only used for diagnostics. It won't in any way affect engine performance or emissions output. Mine has been gone for 3 years.

[MaineExport]

For the record, the intake air temp sensor is only used for diagnostics. It won't in any way affect engine performance or emissions output. Mine has been gone for 3 years.

actually it does effect engine performance. It tells the ECU what the temperature of the incomming air is, and the ECU reacts accordingly. Without the IAT connected, the ECU automatically goes to it's default setting, and you will run rich, it won't make much noticable difference... but gas mileage and performance WILL be slightly sacrificed. It affects timing and fuel/air ratio... it does serve a purpose. You can run without it forever and never do any damage to the car.... but you are better off WITH it connected.

[R240NA]

actually it does effect engine performance. It tells the ECU what the temperature of the incomming air is, and the ECU reacts accordingly. Without the IAT connected, the ECU automatically goes to it's default setting, and you will run rich, it won't make much noticable difference... but gas mileage and performance WILL be slightly sacrificed. It affects timing and fuel/air ratio... it does serve a purpose. You can run without it forever and never do any damage to the car.... but you are better off WITH it connected.

I disagree. "The temperature sensing unit employs a thermistor which is sensitive to the change in temperature. Electrical resistance of the thermistor decrease in response to the temperature rise. This sensor is not used to control the engine system. It is used only for the on board diagnosis." The A/F ratio is based SOLELY on the MAF and the O2 sensors. The ECU doesn't base A/F on air temp, but by MASS. Cooler air is more dense, so there is more mass, the ECU reads that through the MAF. The fuel curves and timing are adjusted accordingly, with the sensor, on, off, in hot weather, or cold, I have never seen a change in mileage or performance. The crank angle sensor is the same way, it only is used to diagnose misfire, it's not needed for engine operation at all. My car, on a dyno and looking at the plugs, runs a little lean, the opposite of your theory. Using a JWT ECU furthers this, the JWT program ignores *most* of the diagnostic sensors completely. The knock sensor is not even used above 4k rpm. Earlier cars did not have a temp sensor, it was added during the initial onset of OBD.

[MaineExport]

I'm curious to know where you qouted that from as you have not credited anyone for its content. It is directly contrary to what I have read from a handful of other sources. I'm not doubting you. I am, however, curious as to why our information would be so contradictary. I ran my car for several weeks without the IAT sensor plugged in... and I can say from experience that it did, in fact, run rich. Also, do you have a JWT ECU program. If so, you answered this question in your last post. Since the program, "ignores" the diagnostic codes... well obviously it won't affect the performance of YOUR car. However, the stock ECU DOES read these codes.... FOR A REASON! I understand your point.. I just disagree out of logic... and based on what I have been told and read. It doesn't make sense that it would read temp for diagnostic purposes only. I'm not yet convinced. I'll admit I could be wrong... but I can't yet see how.

[Sygerwulf]

Well I can't even find my damn IAT sensor. It's suppose to be attached to the bottom of the air box right? Well I took my air box out and put a pop charger in and I never once saw anything connected to my box except the hose leading to the cat. It's a 91 did it even come with a temp sensor?

[MaineExport]

I believe the IAT sensor started on the s14.... 95 and up. So, no you shouldn't have one.

[Sygerwulf]

Okay thank God, I damn near drove myself crazy looking for the thing. I feel much better now lol except I have to get up at 7 o'clock to get my exhaust worked on

[R240NA]

I'm curious to know where you qouted that from as you have not credited anyone for its content. It is directly contrary to what I have read from a handful of other sources. I'm not doubting you. I am, however, curious as to why our information would be so contradictary. I ran my car for several weeks without the IAT sensor plugged in... and I can say from experience that it did, in fact, run rich. Also, do you have a JWT ECU program. If so, you answered this question in your last post. Since the program, "ignores" the diagnostic codes... well obviously it won't affect the performance of YOUR car. However, the stock ECU DOES read these codes.... FOR A REASON! I understand your point.. I just disagree out of logic... and based on what I have been told and read. It doesn't make sense that it would read temp for diagnostic purposes only. I'm not yet convinced. I'll admit I could be wrong... but I can't yet see how.

Gee, we're not the "info sourced" person we should be. That quote is from the FSM, which probably would be more correct than other secondary source. And yes, I have a JWT ECU, but another local car, with no mods at all, is running without the sensor as well, (after we had this same arguement) and has seen no change is 1.7k miles. A few of the techs I know at the nearest dealer have discussed this with me too and agreed on it after seeing that 80% of the engine related sensors are disconnected on my car. Jim Thompson of Sunbelt Performance has also given his nod. Sunbelt has built numerous full race motors for the NASPORT 240SX cars, as well as the Speedvision Touring Cup 240. To say they know the KA and it's workings is an understatement. They are the only other facility in the country that uses JWT codes for tuning ECUs. The reason the ECU reads these codes is to always *know* it's maintaining it's efficiency. The efficiency of the ECU does not control it's operation. My only answer to your input is that the ECU is self-learning, different temperatures, humidity level, type of fuel, use of the motor, etc. all can attribute to the way the ECU reacts. By your SN you seem to live in Maine, obviously the conditions there differ greatly from here in Georgia. That's my .02$

[sil80drifter]

I have a '90 240 SX (S13), the ATS (Air Temperature Sensor) is located on the back of the air box, so if you look at it standing at your drivers side side mirror you should definetly see a bump on the air box with two screws mounting that bump to the box. That, according to any possible logic (and the factory manual) is the ATS. If you unscrew it you will see a little diode type thing covered by a plastic bowed out thing (probably to protect it from smashing, should one take it out and leave it in the table). I doubt that the 91-94 S13 would lack this sensor.

sil80drifter

[MaineExport]

Gee, we're not the "info sourced" person we should be.

I didn't mean to come off in a way that would ilicit a response like that... sorry. Anyway... your sources would be far more reliable than mine... and in reading your last post it starts to make sense. I guess I am convinced..... and what I previously believed is obviously wrong. I stand corrected. DAMN!! But HEY!!! Atleast I got the problem solved that started this thread... like I said before.... sometimes I get this s*** right... I'm so cool!

[Sygerwulf]

Well the back of my air box doesn't even have a spot for a sensor, the only hole in the box besides the intake is the hole for the hose leading to the cat and there are no cut wires or exposed sensors anywhere in my engine bay.

[R240NA]

I didn't mean to come off in a way that would ilicit a response like that... sorry. Anyway... your sources would be far more reliable than mine... and in reading your last post it starts to make sense. I guess I am convinced..... and what I previously believed is obviously wrong. I stand corrected. DAMN!! But HEY!!! Atleast I got the problem solved that started this thread... like I said before.... sometimes I get this s*** right... I'm so cool!

It's cool, I get a little jumpy on here, used to the old forums where people start talking about each other's moms in an attempt to look smarter. I'll take the offensive down a notch.

[MaineExport]

My only answer to your input is that the ECU is self-learning, different temperatures, humidity level, type of fuel, use of the motor, etc. all can attribute to the way the ECU reacts.

I'm confused now....so temp does affect how the ECU functions... but the IAT sensor isn't what tells the ECU the temp? Does the MAFS? I'm seriously confused... I'm not being sarcastic... so don't jump on me again I guess I'm just trying to understand why the ECU would want to CHECK the temp via diagnostics... but yet not react in anyway if it realizes it's not running properly according to the conditions. :help

[R240NA]

I'm confused now....so temp does affect how the ECU functions... but the IAT sensor isn't what tells the ECU the temp? Does the MAFS? I'm seriously confused... I'm not being sarcastic... so don't jump on me again I guess I'm just trying to understand why the ECU would want to CHECK the temp via diagnostics... but yet not react in anyway if it realizes it's not running properly according to the conditions. :help

K, the IAT simply tells the ECU the temperature it's reading, but the ECU only reacts to input from the MAF, the diagnostics part is done by verifying the inputs against each other to make sure they are similar. If the IAT reads significantly different, then it would go into failsafe mode. Same way the O2 sensors work, the primary sensor reads to adjust the A/F ratio, the second only takes a measure to verify that the catalytic converter is working properly by seeing if there is a significant change between the two. Even if it doesn't see a change, the ECU will still adjust A/F ratio accordingly, but to always keep it efficient.

[MaineExport]

OK... so the ECU reads signals from the IAT and the MAF. The IAT is only like a check to be sure that they are reading similar temps. If not it goes into "failsafe" mode.... so if one doesn't have the IAT hooked up... would this not affect the ECU.. and cause it to go into fialsafe mode?... I totally understand what you are saying... and my original thoughts on how the IAT functioned were wrong..... but still... it does affect the ECU in some manner.

Why I'm concerned... is because of the post, "Free (almost) timing advance kit" I have tried this "mod" and noticed no real results what so ever..... but the car still runs right. Running it without the IAT it ran like s***... and VERY rich. I'm still trying to figure out why it would affect it so drastically... because I now believe the IAT really does nothing significant.... oh well.

[Lepchitz1]

YOur problem with it not ideling correctley is probably your aac. I just had to have it replaced on my s14. A $500 part if i might add. The ACC controls your idle, my car would start then go to idle, then die if i didnt keep giving it constant gas.

[Lepchitz1]

oh...and just advance the timing on your dist. cap. That timing kit just fools your ECU into thinking it has colder air than it really does opening up for more horespower....alot of people have overheating problems though after installing the kit because cold air IS NOT coming in like the ECU thinks it is. THis is a bad kit, and i have also heard of people f'ing up their motors just from this one "20 dollar = 20 horespower" upgrade (so called)