just got an 03 m45, it’s in limp mode

[rbfastback45]

just got it, it’s on 03 m45 in black with 80,000 on it, pretty damn good shape. spent 2k on it

1 owner that’s now 90ish. all services and repairs at the infiniti it was purchased at. oil every 3k.

it sat for 6-7 months before he sold it, need some work tho

-it had an service engine soon light code p1065 (ecm)

reds brakes, rosters and calipers.
rear left caliper is stuck closed front left one sticks closed here and there.
both rear pads are down to metal, front pads are new.
didn’t want to do brakes till i fix the limp mode bs first.

-i changed every single fluid in the car already.
-i also changed the crank and cam sensors just because i figured why not.
-changed filter
-i have all the stuff to do the valve cover and plugs.
service history says it had the fuel rails replaced and the fuel gauge recall done too along with a bunch of other work
-it also has a valve cover leak.
-needs truck shocks(already changed)
-needs new belts they say even tho they were replaced 10k ago, all the tensioners are brand new.

took it to the dealer to figure out the code, they said it needs a new ecm (2k haha)
they reset the ses light but it hasen’t come back on even tho it’s still in limp mode.
after about 5-10 min of driving the vds off, slip and abs light come on.

i can get the ecm rebuilt for 200 from a ton of places so i figure why not anyway.
i hope that’s it but if not any other ideas with no codes popping up?


any help would be appreciated

[rbfastback45]

also left rear shock is creaking/blown so i figure i’ll replace shocks and springs too for a better stance but first things first and that’s not to spend any money on it unease it’s fixing limp mode/whatever is causing it.

driver seat is a little crooked when moving back/forward.


i have MAF cleaner but without a code don’t wanna f*** with it.

te f*** this exhaust is retarded!!

like 4 cats, 3 resonators, 1 muffler and a silly stupid butterfly exhaust cutoff for 1 of the pipes..crazy.

[Ilya]

Welcome to the forum.

How is the intake tubing, etc. on this thing? Limp mode could also be caused by a faulty MAF, etc. so I'd definitely check it out (I know you said you didn't want too).

And yes, the exhaust on these cars is dumb. You think that's bad? My M56x has the front cats as part of the header...so you have to pull the motor to replace them. If and when mine fail, I'll probably sell the car. Honestly. It's that much work. lol.

[rbfastback45]

thanks for the reply

yeah that was the first thing i thought it was before i ran the code.
i read somewhere on here that if ur cars running and u unplug the maf and the car stays running its messed up but if it shuts off if ok?
i did that an the engine shut off.

i just didn’t know if anyone had had a maf problem without an engine light?

ill follow the proper maf cleaning process tonight just in case

do u think it could throw the p1065 code an be a maf problem tho?
it’s really throwing me off how the code is not coming back.


aside from the limp mode the car idles perfectly and feels smooths as can be while driving or parked an running

[rbfastback45]

and about your exhaust, DAMN...
i feel like they did that crap on purpose.
but that m56 is bad a**, if i were u id try to do a test pipe

[Ilya]

I'm not familiar with the code, so can't help there unfortunately. Maybe one of our resident Y34 experts will chime in. EdBwoy is pretty good with that model.

And yes, I think Infiniti and manufacturers in general are progressively making cars harder to work on in order to drive revenue for their dealerships. Even changing a light bulb on my car is now a 20-30 minute job when it used to be a 2 minute job on my old 90's Maximas.

[rbfastback45]

just removed the ecm (not to bad)
so i’m gonna send that in an they will first test it then go from there on what if it needs repair or just shipped back.

i hope it’s messed up so i can solve the problem an not have to hunt an dig for any more problems like loose grounds or messed up wires...

i’m not sure if there’s a way to tag edbwoy or not.
i’m use to the 370z forum an tacomaworld...

havi g trouble navigating on my phone with this one tho

[rbfastback45]

also my starter is pretty much shot, it starts every 5-10 attempts to turn the key.

could that be it?

[EdBwoy]

I am here, alive and kicking. The tagging feature is being looked at, so hopefully soon we'll see something positive out of it.
Also, the site drags for me on mobile, switch to desktop mode to help navigate it more smoothly.


Welcome to the forum.

I'll try to tackle what stood out to me as important milestones.
Did you have the limp-mode symptoms right as you bought it or did it happen later? The P1065 code was there from the start, right?

What exactly is happening for you to determine it's in limp-home mode? RPM limit, stuck in 3rd gear, speed limit?

The first 2 questions might answer this, but did you change the crank and cam sensors to try and remedy the issue or even before you noticed the issue. Where did you source the sensors and what are the part numbers?

The starter, well, should only come into play as you start the car. Unless it gets stuck on the flywheel, it shouldn't relate to normal running, or even the limp home (that we still need to define)

If all that checks out, then I'd just try to address the ECU as you did.

[rbfastback45]

thank u so much for hopping on this thread and works my with me.
i’m gonna go in the order u asked:

-the “limp mode”, SES light and the code were already there when i purchased the car.
i know, stupid...i had high hopes.
it was sitting for awhile without being driven.

- what i perceive as limp mode is this:
it will only allow a small percent of exceleration (like 10%) no mater if i floor it or not. it shifts very fast keeping it in low rpm. but i have taken it up to 60mph tho it just takes awhile.
-then after it warms up (maybe 10-15 min of driving) the slip, abs and vdc off pop up.
now there is no SES light any more tho since the dealer cleared it.
i haven’t tried to check codes again thinking nothing will pop up if the lights not on.
there’s no being stuck in gear and no speed limit that i’ve noticed up to 50ish.
i’ve never tried to take the rpm’s past 2,200 tho to even know if they max out

however it seems like it will rev normally while in park tho, i just haven’t pushed it in fear of hurting something, also the belt shriek get louder.

i replaces the crank and cam sensors just to try and see if it would help and also just because after reading your thread about it i figured why not.
the sensors i got are part number u posted (Advanced Auto Parts # 180-0397, CPS0001)
actual brand was “driveworks 35112”

again fluids are all topped off but actual brakes are completely locked on left side of car.

[EdBwoy]

Ok, gotcha. If you still have the 2 sensors, reinstall them.

When you drive the car next time, try to use manual mode to keep the gears low and see if you can exceed 4,000 rpm.
While idling, do the same. Rev it up to see if it passes 4,000 rpm.
Assuming the brakes are thankfully locked open, you still have to do the test driving safely. I'll go over the schematic to see if the locked calipers are sending any messages to the ABS module. That might be what is triggering your VDC system in general to act up. That or wrong/umnatching wheels, crooked steering wheel, among other causes.

Just to be thorough, are your brake switches acting normally for cruise control and the stop lamp?
03-m45-electrical-gremlin-t607397.html

I'm guessing the car behaves the same before and after the VDC light show starts?

[rbfastback45]

ok i will reinstall the oem sensors and the ecm so can test this all out.

actually the left rear caliper is locked CLOSED metal on metal, can’t even spin the wheel when it’s jacked up.

and the front left one is sticking closed but not froze they said.

i live on an almost unpopulated road tho so i can test it out. it just grinds.

also i’ll read the link on how to test brake switches too.

and yes your right there is no difference that i can notice from before or after the vdc,slip and abs lights show while driving

ill get back as soon as i test this all out, maybe tonight or tm mid day

[rbfastback45]

ok so i haven’t got around to swapping in the oem sensors or driving BUT

right off the bat i noticed there are just empty holes where the brake switches would activate.

i’m assuming bushings or something go there lol
so obviously i have no brake lights.

[Gene Ln]

ok so i haven’t got around to swapping in the oem sensors or driving BUT

right off the bat i noticed there are just empty holes where the brake switches would activate.

i’m assuming bushings or something go there lol
so obviously i have no brake lights.

if the brake and cruise switches are hitting empty air you should have brake lights on all the time, even when car is turned off. if those lights are not one check fuses someone could have pulled fuses

[rbfastback45]

ok so i haven’t got around to swapping in the oem sensors or driving BUT

right off the bat i noticed there are just empty holes where the brake switches would activate.

i’m assuming bushings or something go there lol
so obviously i have no brake lights.

if the brake and cruise switches are hitting empty air you should have brake lights on all the time, even when car is turned off. if those lights are not one check fuses someone could have pulled fuses

thanks that makes sense, they never worked cuz i’ve never noticed them on and the cars battery never dies.
either way i did a temporary fix with 2 dimes and duck tape.

still haven’t drove it yet cuz i can’t right now but it dose rev past 4k in park

checked the brake lamp fuse on the driver side kick panel but it was good, so we’re all the others. only one i haven’t checked is the big brake relay in the engine bay.

how do i check that one?

[rbfastback45]

just figured out how to check it with a battery and hear the clicking and it is clicking so it should be good to.

so i checked the stop lamp in kick panel and the hazard lamp, and the tail lamp.

am i missing anything?

[rbfastback45]

btw edbwoy your awesome!!!

it seems the main problem was the 2 brake switch stops.
i guess the car was thinking i was constantly hitting the brakes causing the car to not allow full throttle.

just took it for a short ride and the limiter/ limp mode is gone!!!!!

now i just gotta figure out why the brake lights don’t work.

[EdBwoy]

You are most welcome fastback.

It's crazy how the little things are tied together. These rubber/ plastic parts age at a very similar rate so regardless of mileage on the ODO, things like these will be happening rather uniformly. Unless of course, the brake pedal was only used for panic stops, then things will break even faster.

For the stop lamps, check by both fully pushing and releasing each of the 2 switches to see that the lamps actually illuminate when something is pushed/released. Then look at that 15A fuse again, especially if all 3 stop lamps refuse to come on. It is possible, but very rare for all 3 bulbs to be burnt out by staying on too long.

Fun fact/ reminder, the brake switch and cruise control switch work the opposite in that:

• Push pedal - push switch plunger - stop lamp circuit completed
• Push pedal - push switch plunger - cruise circuit broken

Oh, and address those sticking calipers soon. The ABS/ EBD/ VDC/ TCS systems will thank you.

[rbfastback45]

i had so much anxiety and was very worried, wife was pissed too.

life saver man.

i’m really hoping nothing comes back, especially the p1065....idk how that related to the brake switches.

i did a temp fix with 2 dimes and tape and no matter what i do all 3 won’t cone on, looks like the 2 brake lights may be blown but i haven’t checked the 3rd center light yet.
when i went to buy the car he had the negative terminal off so i’m hoping they are all just burnt out from staying on like u said and it’s nothing else.

that is a decent fact tho, simple but complicated.

any recommendations for roters, pads (for a daily driver that bite hard but are semi quiet) and especially calipers???
*for the front and rear brake calipers it seems like there’s not a lot of options out there..

i see the power stop z23 brake kit, but i don’t think they make the rear calipers cuz i can’t find em.

[Gene Ln]

i had so much anxiety and was very worried, wife was pissed too.

life saver man.

i’m really hoping nothing comes back, especially the p1065....idk how that related to the brake switches.

i did a temp fix with 2 dimes and tape and no matter what i do all 3 won’t cone on, looks like the 2 brake lights may be blown but i haven’t checked the 3rd center light yet.
when i went to buy the car he had the negative terminal off so i’m hoping they are all just burnt out from staying on like u said and it’s nothing else.

that is a decent fact tho, simple but complicated.

any recommendations for roters, pads (for a daily driver that bite hard but are semi quiet) and especially calipers???
*for the front and rear brake calipers it seems like there’s not a lot of options out there..

i see the power stop z23 brake kit, but i don’t think they make the rear calipers cuz i can’t find em.

best brake pad in my opinion will be ceramic, they take a bit of heat cycling to perform optimally, but they have the best brake bite and little to no dust.
As for the calipers you can use 350z brembo's for the front with little to no modification at all, just have to use 350z brembo brake lines as well, and for the rear you can use the Z32(300zx twin turbo) but some slight modification on those may be needed. as to rotors with those brembo calipers you would use the mating 350z and z32 rotors

Oh and if you feel like doing a bit more modifying the Akebono bbk can fit

[rbfastback45]

i had so much anxiety and was very worried, wife was pissed too.

life saver man.

i’m really hoping nothing comes back, especially the p1065....idk how that related to the brake switches.

i did a temp fix with 2 dimes and tape and no matter what i do all 3 won’t cone on, looks like the 2 brake lights may be blown but i haven’t checked the 3rd center light yet.
when i went to buy the car he had the negative terminal off so i’m hoping they are all just burnt out from staying on like u said and it’s nothing else.

that is a decent fact tho, simple but complicated.

any recommendations for roters, pads (for a daily driver that bite hard but are semi quiet) and especially calipers???
*for the front and rear brake calipers it seems like there’s not a lot of options out there..

i see the power stop z23 brake kit, but i don’t think they make the rear calipers cuz i can’t find em.

best brake pad in my opinion will be ceramic, they take a bit of heat cycling to perform optimally, but they have the best brake bite and little to no dust.
As for the calipers you can use 350z brembo's for the front with little to no modification at all, just have to use 350z brembo brake lines as well, and for the rear you can use the Z32(300zx twin turbo) but some slight modification on those may be needed. as to rotors with those brembo calipers you would use the mating 350z and z32 rotors

Oh and if you feel like doing a bit more modifying the Akebono bbk can fit

great thanks a lot to u too Gene, exactly what i was looking for was info on what else would work.
i ended up going with stoptech street pads, centric premium roters and just rebuilt oem calipers.

trying not to go crazy on this car...

ill leave all the crazy spending for the 370 an the taco.

[macgiver]

mac , hey rbfastback , man many people think with relays - if you simply apply battery (energizing) to the coil , (hardly ever is a problem , only when SUPER CORRODED) Yes it clicks - BUT the ACTUAL problem is almost always the N.O. (Normally Open) Contacts - they oxidize - they become intermittant with AGE/ salt/ humidity -" N.O." CONTACTS ARE WHAT FAILS. Using an AUDIBLE Continuity meter (a sensitive one ) will sound a "strained" uneven tone - THAT'S BAD CONTACTS . (My F/pump relay ) You could also do this test to the N.C. (Normally Closed ) Contacts - BUT because they ARE CONTACTING CLOSED (Normally) , and relays are usually used to "Make" and not so much "break" a ckt. - "N.C." will not fail first usually ! Just because it clicks , you cannot acquit!

[DurableOilAMSOIL]

Did the P1056 ever come back or everything is good now?

[rbfastback45]

mac , hey rbfastback , man many people think with relays - if you simply apply battery (energizing) to the coil , (hardly ever is a problem , only when SUPER CORRODED) Yes it clicks - BUT the ACTUAL problem is almost always the N.O. (Normally Open) Contacts - they oxidize - they become intermittant with AGE/ salt/ humidity -" N.O." CONTACTS ARE WHAT FAILS. Using an AUDIBLE Continuity meter (a sensitive one ) will sound a "strained" uneven tone - THAT'S BAD CONTACTS . (My F/pump relay ) You could also do this test to the N.C. (Normally Closed ) Contacts - BUT because they ARE CONTACTING CLOSED (Normally) , and relays are usually used to "Make" and not so much "break" a ckt. - "N.C." will not fail first usually ! Just because it clicks , you cannot acquit!

o wow, ok that’s good info!
thanks man

ill do that, but now that i think about it that relay says “tail lamp”.
would tail lamp hinder them from coming on??
i know the 15A in the kick panel is primary brake light fuse.

it is strange all 3 are out

[rbfastback45]

Did the P1056 ever come back or everything is good now?

no the P1065 has not but i also haven’t really drove the car much at all

i mostly just let it run while in park for short periods of time and 1 super short drive down the street to make sure the limiter was off.

the brakes are absolutely horrific lol

all the calipers, roters, pads and both belts come in by march 5th the latest.

then ill be able to do long drives an really check everything out
also finally drive it for the first time for real!!!!
i can’t wait.
then i gotta do the valve gasket an plugs.

[macgiver]

mac, rbfastack sorry I' m not familiar with that specific car , and hate to guess - I don't want you to break something by me being foolish that way , but I have electrical , and good deal of electronics - General knowledge . So I help w/ electric question and not where things are or what a particular relay maybe connected to .you know-Good lick man ,you may PM me on a "stumper" !

[EdBwoy]

Do your fog lights work? IIRC, they are tied to the tail lamp relay in some way.
We'll have to employ use of the FSM here, but meanwhile it should be pretty simple to find another relay like the tail lamp relay under the hood and switch it around. I don't think Nissan had gone into the special fusible links in the Y34 yet.

[rbfastback45]

ok guys so both brake lights were burnt out,
haven’t checked the center/3rd

but the primary brake lights work now after replacing them!!!!

u guys are awesome by the way tho.
so dedicated to helping others

[macgiver]

mac, that'll be $ 2000 Argentine pesos Meeester rbfastback !!

[macgiver]

mac, I have come to believe this emoji is so overwelming - like a beercan filled with Plutonium , I signed the treaty of
sofa king we todd ed in order that it is used ONLY on the rarest of occasions. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,gotta learn that dancestep