just got a rebuild and now it seems like it lags power

[turbochargenissan]

Ok , i just got my ka rebuilt and its got all new timing , values ext all of everything and i didnt do it myself i payed someone to do it and i havnt had it long but it seems like its lagging a lil bit of performance ...any advice would be great its stock just a injen air filter .. thanks

[liquid_cool]

after a rebuild there is a motor break in period that you need to observe..for normal stock junk its useually 2000 miles to seat the new piston rings..unless ya use cromolly rings..those take about 500 miles more..untill the break in period is finnished you may get slight blow by depending on the rings and what was done to the engine..allso the builder might have set the timing to hold back the engine till after the break in is done..you might want to call and ask them..allso you might want to look at the book or information the builder might have included with the engine...really good builders..will give you a packet of what was used and why ..and what was done and how with meshurements of everything..so if ya feel things arent running good after the break in phaze..give your builder a call.

[turbochargenissan]

ive drove it for 2 days now it seens like the timing has a lil bit to do with it but i your probable right , this is my first rebuilt so ill give it some miles..and hit it back im going to ask the company for info but i have a general idea so what i need to upgrade like plugs , wires ext.

[liquid_cool]

some mechanix when honeing the cylinders do a fast hone with a ball style hone..even the manufacturer request's you use this hone..what it does is cuts a small amount of meatal away from the cylinder walls ..kinda a refresh of the serfaces, the bad part about this hone and they way its used is the lines it creates are random strait lines..like if you were to draw lines horizontaly level to the deck of the block..this style takes longer to seat the rings as the lines are strait and the rings dont rotate corectly..there is another style of hone (lady finger style) that looks like 3 small blocks of stone on a rotatable assembly for a power drill...with this style hone ; lines can be created in a cross hatch pattern to help the rings rotate and seat faster..with this hone you do a fast cut to get rid of the crust (old serface) and they you change..the next step would be to slow the cutting speed of the stones to a crawl...but bring the hone up and down the cylinder rapidly..this makes that cross hatch pattern..this is a racing technic employed by most race engine builders...the reason i explaind it was to demonstrate the diference and legth of time to seat rings..if ya use the ballstyle and strait lines..it takes 3 times longer to seat a ring than the cross hatch method...so your looking at 2500-3000 miles befor yours seat..as to the 1500-2000 miles for the crossed hatch vertion...hope this helps..exscuse the spelling..its late here and im beat.

[WI_240sx]

some mechanix when honeing the cylinders do a fast hone with a ball style hone..even the manufacturer request's you use this hone..what it does is cuts a small amount of meatal away from the cylinder walls ..kinda a refresh of the serfaces, the bad part about this hone and they way its used is the lines it creates are random strait lines..like if you were to draw lines horizontaly level to the deck of the block..this style takes longer to seat the rings as the lines are strait and the rings dont rotate corectly..there is another style of hone (lady finger style) that looks like 3 small blocks of stone on a rotatable assembly for a power drill...with this style hone ; lines can be created in a cross hatch pattern to help the rings rotate and seat faster..with this hone you do a fast cut to get rid of the crust (old serface) and they you change..the next step would be to slow the cutting speed of the stones to a crawl...but bring the hone up and down the cylinder rapidly..this makes that cross hatch pattern..this is a racing technic employed by most race engine builders...the reason i explaind it was to demonstrate the diference and legth of time to seat rings..if ya use the ballstyle and strait lines..it takes 3 times longer to seat a ring than the cross hatch method...so your looking at 2500-3000 miles befor yours seat..as to the 1500-2000 miles for the crossed hatch vertion...hope this helps..exscuse the spelling..its late here and im beat.

it doesnt matter what tool you use to hone the cylinders, you always try to get the cross hatch pattern at a 40-45 degree angle, ive rebuilt engine blocks and small engines alike, and always used a ball type hone tool. most the time when rebuilding a high milage engine it doesnt really matter.. if you measured the cylinder wall you would find it would be tappered, this is why you get the block machined before putting it all back together..

dont worry about your power problems too much, im sure once youve hit the break in point everything will start getting better... make sure to do an oil change like every 500 miles or so for the next 2000 miles.. most people would say that 1000 miles is the break in point for most rebuilds, but there are many other ways to break in a motor.. ive seen alot of motorsports companies rebuild an engine and as soon as there done they put the motor on a dyno and rev the crap out of it.. lol, professional drag racers do it that way too..

[liquid_cool]

i used the ball style and ladyfinger style as an example..most people dont have ither funds or a machine shop in there house..the lady finger style hone provides a more uniform surface than the ball style and is far cheeper..my information is for those at home..on a budget..but your rite..you could save time and take it to the shop and have it done..and they will hone it..allthou..they will probly tell you dont use the ball style..just my opinion.

[WI_240sx]

well i was just trying to say that with alot of the engines getting rebuilt now a days are motors that have 150K + miles on them, for that long of a time the cylinder walls are morethan likely to be tappered. theres a machining place not to far from me that will make the cylinder walls not tappered, and will do stuff like line hone the crank journals, if thats the right word i just used.. lol im having a brain fart at the moment

it only cost about 250-300 bucks to have this service done

[nuts510]

check your timing both the ignition and cam timing

[turbochargenissan]

Ok i havent been on much, but it seems like it gets better everyday , it kinda has a cold start , and if its not wormed up it ideals funny but i just changed the plugs ,wires and it seems to help a lil bit. im trying to take it easy for another 3-4 thousand miles i have a apexi duel exaust but im not going to hook it up untill i know whats going on with my car . but it seems to be doing ok but not great. thanks for the help ..

[liquid_cool]

well i was just trying to say that with alot of the engines getting rebuilt now a days are motors that have 150K + miles on them, for that long of a time the cylinder walls are morethan likely to be tappered. theres a machining place not to far from me that will make the cylinder walls not tappered, and will do stuff like line hone the crank journals, if thats the right word i just used.. lol im having a brain fart at the moment

it only cost about 250-300 bucks to have this service done

dunno about you man..but most kids doing this out of there home..dont have 250 to 300 laying around for a simple hone job..and if ya buy cheep tools for meshur'in at harbor frieght..you can easly straiten things out your self with some carefull meshur'in..just my thought on savin 300 bucks!

[WI_240sx]

its not a hone job, its an entire block service, they clean up EVERYTHING!! i think 300 bucks aint bad considering that the machines you would need to do this your self probably cost thousands of dollars

[liquid_cool]

its not a hone job, its an entire block service, they clean up EVERYTHING!! i think 300 bucks aint bad considering that the machines you would need to do this your self probably cost thousands of dollars

exactly..the machines do cost 10 to 20k a pop..and for 300 bucks..they better do more than that in this economy..you can easly straiten out taperd wals with a ladyfinger style hone and some time..its basic tools...power drill..hone..cheep "T" style meshuring insterments..and a micrometer..easy..just time consuming..and after your done..take your block down and get it hot tanked.

[Bstrd240SX]

ok, some real info here

only an idiot cant get the 45* criss cross pattern when using a ball hone OR a 3 stone hone, if you cant gun a ball hone in and out while you pull the trigger on a drill you should really just go shoot yourself

theres nothing about either of these styles of hone that make the criss cross pattern impossible or even hard to acheive

the 3 stone hone is a slightly better hone, as it tends to hone the cylinders a bit straighter, and can also show you if your walls are warped / out of round

now if you take your block to a machine shop, the honing they do - which is actually called BORING - is done with this big fancy machine that actually has this feature called ACCURACY

so heres what you do:

clean your plugs, they are probably dirty from he assembly lube / oil ... in fact just replace them

check your timing, put it back closer to stock as its probably all out of wack

run regular oil, synthetic oil is to slick and youll have problems breaking in your rings, my father made this mistake on my sisters car, took 5k mile for those rings to seat, and by tha time the walls were already slightly glazed over, so the car never really had good compression after that

[liquid_cool]

well bstrd240..this is what i was trying to say..the 3block or lady finger hone is slightly better..but my info is for those on a tight budget..as this economy sucks...machine shop is nice and yes i would normally sugest a bore/decking of block if needed and a few other things..but this is for a high tolorance OEM rebuild..so a home hone is just fine..thats all i was trying to get across..an easy fast ..and most of all..cheep way to do it your self....they really should make a machine shop forum..so others dont get confused that this is a DIY forum format.

[Bstrd240SX]

understandable

[turbochargenissan]

well i replaced the plugs and i have been using regular oil and changing it every 1000 miles or so im at 2000 now and it runs good , it still has a cold start but it drives fine, replacing the plugs and wires helped out and it seem if i dont short shift i get a good bit of boost but if i do shift at like 3 or so it seems to lag . dont know im not a machanic im just some guy ...thanks everyone