just dropped motor in won't run
just dropped motor in won't run
2001 Qx4 motor sucked in intake screw, stuck in piston. Just finished repairing motor. Got reinstalled turns over but doesn't fire. Has fuel and compression but no spark. Anybody have something to check?
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
Check the crank sensor and signal plate, thru the hole in the bellhousing.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
It ingested one of the power valve screws. Sounded like a diesel. So i pulled the motor out to get the heads off. Found what was left of a small screw smashed into piston.Fixed that problem have locktited all power valve screws. All new gaskets, water pump, timing chains and tensioners. Motor mounts . Replaced both cats. Reassembled following FSM. Double checked all electrical connectors everything seems ok. Only code is coolant temp sensor out of range.sees -40 when I check data on scantool. I need to check on that but would that stop the ignition? Tired of seeing it just sit in driveway has not been driven in 5 years but has been started occasionally as was trying to troubleshoot noise. Last ran about 5 weeks ago before I pulled it out and tore it down.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
How do I check sensor besides pulling and checking for loose wires or damage. Can you test with a meter?EdBwoy wrote:Check the crank sensor and signal plate, thru the hole in the bellhousing.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
I believe the fsm describes a way to test the sensor itself as well as the harness.
I mentioned the signal plate just in case it was bent during installation. The same symptoms occurred to me once but it was due to me using the wrong flywheel and signal plate.
I mentioned the signal plate just in case it was bent during installation. The same symptoms occurred to me once but it was due to me using the wrong flywheel and signal plate.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
EdBwoy wrote:I believe the fsm describes a way to test the sensor itself as well as the harness.
I mentioned the signal plate just in case it was bent during installation. The same symptoms occurred to me once but it was due to me using the wrong flywheel and signal plate.
Same flywheel and signal plate. I never removed them from the crankshaft. Just checked the sensor wiring and connector they look ok, but I will look them up in the manual and see how to test them.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
When you turn the key to on the check engine light needs to come on and after a few seconds the anti-theft light needs to turn off - is it off?
After that, I would check engine related fuses and the fuel pump fuse. Don't forget the fuses under the hood such as eccs2 fuse.
Theoretically with SES light on, anti-theft light off, and good fuses it should be ready to start.
The engine will start with coolant temp sensor out of range I believe, but I think with that reading you may be full rich. I would expect your plugs to be wet (fouled). You may need to fix that before you get it to start if it is going full rich.
After that, I would check engine related fuses and the fuel pump fuse. Don't forget the fuses under the hood such as eccs2 fuse.
Theoretically with SES light on, anti-theft light off, and good fuses it should be ready to start.
The engine will start with coolant temp sensor out of range I believe, but I think with that reading you may be full rich. I would expect your plugs to be wet (fouled). You may need to fix that before you get it to start if it is going full rich.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
^^True.
I need to look thru the manual again, but shouldn't the security issue usually cut off the fuel pump?
MY2001QX, I guess I could ask, how do you know you're getting fuel? Tested the injectors? Because the pump might run but the filter is clogged
I need to look thru the manual again, but shouldn't the security issue usually cut off the fuel pump?
MY2001QX, I guess I could ask, how do you know you're getting fuel? Tested the injectors? Because the pump might run but the filter is clogged
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
Pulled plug and coil to check for spark. Could smell fuel in the air coming out of cylinder.security light goes off after plugging in key. Fuel pumps because before I hooked up fuel line I purged a few quarts of fuel out to get old fuel out of fuel lines and get fresh fuel to injectors. Because it has been sitting here for awhile. I just put 5 gals of fresh fuel in tank.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
Have you fixed the coolant temp sensor? I think that would be my next step.
That will at least rule it out as being part of the problem.
That will at least rule it out as being part of the problem.
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rgk
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Re: just dropped motor in won't run
I don't usually say this kind of thing, but here goes: f*** incredible that Nissan has not acknowledged this power valve screw problem as serious and widespread.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
This sounds a bit like an experience I had last winter with my 02. It sat for a couple of weeks during a cold snap and completely discharged the battery. I charged the battery and it would turn over but would never fire. Same as you I could fainlty smell fuel in the exhaust but there was no spark.
In this case I had to have it towed to the local dealer who ended up having to reprogram the security system which no longer recognized my key as valid. The security LED didn't indicate a problem with the system, but eventually after many tries at starting it the ECU threw a code which indicated that the system had been locked down due to too many tries at starting with an invalid key.
Needless to say, I'd happily rip that stupid system out if I could.
Good luck
In this case I had to have it towed to the local dealer who ended up having to reprogram the security system which no longer recognized my key as valid. The security LED didn't indicate a problem with the system, but eventually after many tries at starting it the ECU threw a code which indicated that the system had been locked down due to too many tries at starting with an invalid key.
Needless to say, I'd happily rip that stupid system out if I could.
Good luck
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
OK I figured out the no start problem. It wasn't the security system. The problem was not TV the security system. When I reassembled the timing chains, I had the intake sprockets switched there wasn't anything for the cam sensor to sense. Put it back together and it started right up.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
OK I figured out the no start problem. It wasn't the security system. The problem was not TV the security system. When I reassembled the timing chains, I had the intake sprockets switched there wasn't anything for the cam sensor to sense. Put it back together and it started right up.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
OK I figured out the no start problem. It wasn't the security system. The problem was not TV the security system. When I reassembled the timing chains, I had the intake sprockets switched there wasn't anything for the cam sensor to sense. Put it back together and it started right up.
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rgk
- Posts: 588
- Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 4:48 am
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Re: just dropped motor in won't run
Excellent, thanks so much for following up. How did you figure it out?
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rgk
- Posts: 588
- Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 4:48 am
- Car: 02 Pathfinder LE 3.5 auto 4x4
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Re: just dropped motor in won't run
Also, just curious: what did you do with the A/C pipe at the top front of the engine? It seems like it would be in the way for removal.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
I removed the A/C compressor (I didn't disconnect the lines), and just swung it over to the side when I pulled my engine - finally got it removed this weekend! (mine was also a victim of the power valve screw issue)rgk wrote:Also, just curious: what did you do with the A/C pipe at the top front of the engine? It seems like it would be in the way for removal.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
Now it runs fine but keeps setting a code cam sensor passenger 
side. Have switched sensor to other side same code if sensor was bad code should have changed to driver side. So I went into troubleshooting mode, followed the instructions in manual. Sensor getting voltage with key on, ground is good, sensor outputting 5 volt pulses when motor running. We checked both sensors and compared readings. Both behaved the same. Next checked wire from sensor plug to computer plug for continuity checked out good, did same to other sensor wires while I had everything apart. All wiring checks out ok. Any ideas other than a bad computer? I drove it down to a buddies shop who double checked everything just to be sure he says all is fine also. Code sets within 10 -60 seconds of start and every 2nd start CEL comes on like it should. He thinks that the computer took a dump. I just don't want to put another $400.00 in to it and still not be able to drive it. Seems to run great drove it eh miles each way to work the other day. I just can't get it smogged with the CEL on.
side. Have switched sensor to other side same code if sensor was bad code should have changed to driver side. So I went into troubleshooting mode, followed the instructions in manual. Sensor getting voltage with key on, ground is good, sensor outputting 5 volt pulses when motor running. We checked both sensors and compared readings. Both behaved the same. Next checked wire from sensor plug to computer plug for continuity checked out good, did same to other sensor wires while I had everything apart. All wiring checks out ok. Any ideas other than a bad computer? I drove it down to a buddies shop who double checked everything just to be sure he says all is fine also. Code sets within 10 -60 seconds of start and every 2nd start CEL comes on like it should. He thinks that the computer took a dump. I just don't want to put another $400.00 in to it and still not be able to drive it. Seems to run great drove it eh miles each way to work the other day. I just can't get it smogged with the CEL on.Re: just dropped motor in won't run
It is possible the computer has a problem I suppose - that would be quite a coincidence having it fail at the same time you sucked a screw, as they are not related.
I have seen a couple of posts over time about code 0340's when the tming chain is off one tooth. Since you have done a timing chain, I think it may be worth verifying your chains are correct before splurging on a computer.
I found these templates a couple of years ago:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpd ... mplate.pdf
They allow you to check your timing chain with the timing cover still on the engine. They need to be printed / aligned carefully - you can see that one tooth off will result in only about a 1/4 inch movement in the arrow indicating proper alignment. But they will allow you to do a final check before committing to that new ECM.
I would guess that your drivers side cam is perfect, so once that template is properly aligned you should get a quick answer on the passenger side!
I have seen a couple of posts over time about code 0340's when the tming chain is off one tooth. Since you have done a timing chain, I think it may be worth verifying your chains are correct before splurging on a computer.
I found these templates a couple of years ago:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpd ... mplate.pdf
They allow you to check your timing chain with the timing cover still on the engine. They need to be printed / aligned carefully - you can see that one tooth off will result in only about a 1/4 inch movement in the arrow indicating proper alignment. But they will allow you to do a final check before committing to that new ECM.
I would guess that your drivers side cam is perfect, so once that template is properly aligned you should get a quick answer on the passenger side!
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
I will print out those and double check the timing chains. Is there any way the chains - sprockets can be in alignment but the cams via the variable cam timing system to still be off. I know the cam dowel can only go in one place, but can the other part move in any way? How could that be checked ?
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
No, I think if VVT was misbehaving you would have separate codes for that. Are you getting just p0340, or other codes?
Your timing chains may check out ok - just seems odd to have a computer go at the same time time. But the templates are a good way to doublecheck.
By the way, have you heard of myairbags.com? If you decide it really is the ECM, you send them yours for repair. They fix it and return it to you pretty quickly (they adverise 24 hr turnaround. $82 or so on ebay. Since it is your ECM you don't have to reprogram the keys like you do with a replacement. Might save some $$$.
Your timing chains may check out ok - just seems odd to have a computer go at the same time time. But the templates are a good way to doublecheck.
By the way, have you heard of myairbags.com? If you decide it really is the ECM, you send them yours for repair. They fix it and return it to you pretty quickly (they adverise 24 hr turnaround. $82 or so on ebay. Since it is your ECM you don't have to reprogram the keys like you do with a replacement. Might save some $$$.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
P 03 40 was the old code before I swapped sprockets. Now I get a code 1140 if I remember right. It is bank 1 cam sensor. I pulled both sensors and switched them to see if the code moved to the other bank. If a bad sensor the code should have changed to an 1145 for the driver side bank. It didn't. That's when I decided to chase down the wiring and make sure I didn't have a open or short in the wiring. While apart I checked the resistance to ground as well as the resistance from sensor plugs to the computer harness plug. All wires checked out ok no opens or shorts. Low resistance appx 1/3 ohm for all wires from end to end. So I'm convinced it is either out of time or the cam is off somehow if it's not the computer.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
Ok, if p0340 has gone away, your timing chains are probably fine.
P1140 is Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 1, see herefor causes: http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p1140_nissan.html
It seems your cam position sensor is ok since P0340 went away, and your crank sensor is not setting any codes, so you should be ok there. You need a good ecm, good circuit to the solenoid valve, a good solenoid valve, and adequate oil pressure for everything to work (read the NISSAN description section in that link).
I think you have already swapped solenoid valves, and found that did not fix the problem.
The only way I 've seen to definitively diagnose this is to use a good professional scan tool. You set it to read the duty cycle of the intake solenoid valve, and to also read the intake cam advance in degrees. Test the driver side ( bank 2) first since it is ok and not setting codes. The duty cycle is increased as the engine is revved up to advance the intake cam timing, and you can see the degrees of advance on the scan tool. Advance will decrease as the engine returns to idle.
Now measure the passenger side (bank 1). The duty cycle should increase like on bank 2 as the engine is revved. This means:
- the ecm is properly monitoring and trying to adjust the cam advance.
- the circuits are ok, as you see the duty cycle increase.
So you can rule out the ecm and the circuit to the solenoid valve.
You already swapped solenoid valves, so you have a known good intake solenoid valve.
Now, if the intake cam is not advancing properly, it will be because of low oil pressure to that solenoid valve. The ecm will continue to increase the duty cycle of the solenoid to try and get the cam to advance (by providing more oil flow), but when it fails to see the amount of advance needed, it will set the p1140 code.
A good shop should have a scan tool that can do this (intake cam advance systems are not unique to Nissan) or Nissan can do it.
All of that is from a post by NissanTech several years ago on here, but I've lost the link.
Unfortunately, if it's oil pressure, the front of the engine comes off to find where the problem is.
So make sure you have a p1140, then I guess you can go from there.
P1140 is Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 1, see herefor causes: http://nissanhelp.com/diy/obd_codes/p1140_nissan.html
It seems your cam position sensor is ok since P0340 went away, and your crank sensor is not setting any codes, so you should be ok there. You need a good ecm, good circuit to the solenoid valve, a good solenoid valve, and adequate oil pressure for everything to work (read the NISSAN description section in that link).
I think you have already swapped solenoid valves, and found that did not fix the problem.
The only way I 've seen to definitively diagnose this is to use a good professional scan tool. You set it to read the duty cycle of the intake solenoid valve, and to also read the intake cam advance in degrees. Test the driver side ( bank 2) first since it is ok and not setting codes. The duty cycle is increased as the engine is revved up to advance the intake cam timing, and you can see the degrees of advance on the scan tool. Advance will decrease as the engine returns to idle.
Now measure the passenger side (bank 1). The duty cycle should increase like on bank 2 as the engine is revved. This means:
- the ecm is properly monitoring and trying to adjust the cam advance.
- the circuits are ok, as you see the duty cycle increase.
So you can rule out the ecm and the circuit to the solenoid valve.
You already swapped solenoid valves, so you have a known good intake solenoid valve.
Now, if the intake cam is not advancing properly, it will be because of low oil pressure to that solenoid valve. The ecm will continue to increase the duty cycle of the solenoid to try and get the cam to advance (by providing more oil flow), but when it fails to see the amount of advance needed, it will set the p1140 code.
A good shop should have a scan tool that can do this (intake cam advance systems are not unique to Nissan) or Nissan can do it.
All of that is from a post by NissanTech several years ago on here, but I've lost the link.
Unfortunately, if it's oil pressure, the front of the engine comes off to find where the problem is.
So make sure you have a p1140, then I guess you can go from there.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
Okay, it is Nistech, and I found one of his old posts where he talks about distinguishing between the sensor and the solenoid because the computer may not be able to:
Quote:
I thought I would make this a sticky as it seams several of you are having these codes pop up.
Here is the deal. if you clear the code(turn off the light) and upon restarting it ,before driving it, the light comes back on. you have a sensor problem, if the light doesnt come on till after you have driven it , it could be either part but is likely the solonoid. this code has 2 logics, one if it doesent see a signal while the car is running, or if it doesnt see a logical signal while under part thorttle acceleration. Meaning the ecm is watching degrees of cam advance as compared to solonoid duty cycle, if the ecm is increasing duty cycle by say 50 to 60% and the cam degree does not advance and is typically 7 degrees behind its opposing bank for a constant 20 seconds it thinks there is a problem, the computer does not have the ability to distiguish which part is failing so it throws the one code, this is where consultII comes in handy, I am able to watch both sensors in degrees and watch both solonoids in % of duty cycle, If my degrees are registering very low but registering non the less and the duty cycle on the affected bank is substantially higher then the opposing bank the sensor is functioning but the solonoid is not allowing enough oil through to opperate the VTC. therefore the solonoid either has a restricted port or a week electromagnetic field causeing it not to open fully. Now in the other case if the degrees on the cam lock at 0 or 120 degrees it is the sensor, the typical range for the degrees under normal driving conditions is between 7 and 16 degrees.
There you go guys, hope this sheds some light on what your dealing with.
(link: post1191472.html#p1191472) There appears to have been an attachment that has been deleted.
Quote:
I thought I would make this a sticky as it seams several of you are having these codes pop up.
Here is the deal. if you clear the code(turn off the light) and upon restarting it ,before driving it, the light comes back on. you have a sensor problem, if the light doesnt come on till after you have driven it , it could be either part but is likely the solonoid. this code has 2 logics, one if it doesent see a signal while the car is running, or if it doesnt see a logical signal while under part thorttle acceleration. Meaning the ecm is watching degrees of cam advance as compared to solonoid duty cycle, if the ecm is increasing duty cycle by say 50 to 60% and the cam degree does not advance and is typically 7 degrees behind its opposing bank for a constant 20 seconds it thinks there is a problem, the computer does not have the ability to distiguish which part is failing so it throws the one code, this is where consultII comes in handy, I am able to watch both sensors in degrees and watch both solonoids in % of duty cycle, If my degrees are registering very low but registering non the less and the duty cycle on the affected bank is substantially higher then the opposing bank the sensor is functioning but the solonoid is not allowing enough oil through to opperate the VTC. therefore the solonoid either has a restricted port or a week electromagnetic field causeing it not to open fully. Now in the other case if the degrees on the cam lock at 0 or 120 degrees it is the sensor, the typical range for the degrees under normal driving conditions is between 7 and 16 degrees.
There you go guys, hope this sheds some light on what your dealing with.
(link: post1191472.html#p1191472) There appears to have been an attachment that has been deleted.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
Printed up the templates above but they really don't match what I am looking at with the covers off. Looks like on templates the cam should line up with the dowel pins used to line up the covers. Mine are not in those locations.i would attach pictures but don't know how to add on this forum.
Re: just dropped motor in won't run
The drivers side cam notch lines up directly with the cam sensor which is where I would think it would be. But the passenger side does not line up where I would think it would should go. I would figure it would be lined up with either the cam sensor, or be half way between the lines?