Just Bought 2001 QX4 Loaded with 28000 Miles What to Check

[slshearer]

Hi
I purchased a 2001 QX4 4x4 which is 1 owner with 28000 miles, its loaded with DVD, Nav, 17" wheels etc.. etc.. The car has been started and run since new, always garaged, It just passed the MD emission test so I wanted to know what I should do other than change the oils, belts, battery etc.. it has a working factory Nav and I guess the maps are pretty outdated, is there updates available, if not I planned on using my Navigon anyway so I will leave it stock for now.. was this a good unit?

I should get the unit is the next week and planned on ordering the belts, hoses etc.. I wanted to know if these parts are the same from a Pathy to the Q...

I plan to flush the brake system, rad and the transmission, rear end and transfer case, can I use Synthetic fluids?

The dash panel where the nav and clock reside is black yet the rest is in a wood finish, is this wood part available to cover the Nav?

Any preventative maintenance tips would be much appreciated!

Thanks
Stewart

[m0nkeyprince]

You should replace the fluids with synthetic ones, probably change the air, fuel and if you are going to change the ATF, change the filter too

fuel filter zerothread/459800-how-to-change-the-fuel-filter-r50

ATF change zerothread/466068-how-to-change-transmi ... 1-2wd-auto

Also, check your cabin air filter.

have you checked the brake pads yet? they should be nearing their ends at 28000

[Chuck Tribolet]

Check for me trying to steal it. ;-) Nice find.

Change all the filters except the fuel filter.

You don't need synthetic. My '01 PF is at 190,000, 1/3 of that towing a boat trailer, and it's never seen synth.

The basic stuff should be the same between PF and QX4.

[m0nkeyprince]

well, for me, i try to change fuel filter every year, plus, its only 12 bucks and 30 mins of your time, so its no biggie

and for synthetic/ conventional, if you change your fluids frequently and on time, its not a big difference, however synthetic fluids are specially built in a lab to lubricate and operate in engine and gear parts. Conventional is liquefied old dinosaurs :P

the 2001 uses the 3.5 engine, so you should add loctite red on the powervalve screw threads

threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics-t304263.html

you have very low miles so its not a something that should be done immediately cause it does take alot of time, but its something you should get to in the future.

[KyooX4]

slshearer just in case you were unware, you have a timing chain, not belt

[KyooX4]

slshearer just in case you were unware, you have a timing chain, not belt

[Chuck Tribolet]

well, for me, i try to change fuel filter every year, plus, its only 12 bucks and 30 mins of your time, so its no biggie

That fuel filter is HUGE. FSM says change when needed. The symptom would be a lack of power at full throttle fairly high
RPMs. I go with the FSM. I changed mine out when I had a problem (hesitation at full throttle 4200 RPM) that turned out to
be the MAF.

[carnal_c30]

I would change the fuel filter, its been 10 years and probably has never been changed, I would do it just because its not expensive and there's no need to cheap out on it. Then again, I'm the type of guy who will change everything when I buy a new car even if receipts said it was done recently- I like to know I changed it and start from there.

Powervalve screws- 100% must, don't let the chance of some ridiculous screws ruining your 28k motor.