Just baught a boatlaod of equiment. Any tips before I install?

[Well Whoop De Do]

I just bought a pair of Polk Momo component speakers. 10 Polk sub, and 2, 200 watt MTX amps with all the necessary wires. I have installed my head unit myslef (Pionner MP3 players) without any problems but this is different and a lot more complicated. Besides just reading the directions is there any tips or tricks of the trade anyone could give me?

I already have one question. I am putting this stuff in my S14. And how can I hook the sub inclosure to the trunk deck? There is that board there to get to the spare wheel so bolting it to it isn't an option. Any ideas?

[elbles]

Believe it or not, installing speakers and subs is an easier wiring job than most head unit installs. All you have to do is run constant 12-volt power from the battery for the amplifer (you could also do it from the fuse block, but considering what kind of load you are looking at, I'd strongly discourage that approach), a "trigger" signal from the head unit (that acts as a switch to turn the amplifer(s) on with the head unit, a ground connection to the chassis (you'll want to do that in the trunk, and preferably, with the least amount of resistance from the ground in the trunk to the ground for the head unit; this can be measured with an Ohmmeter.) And let's not forget the RCA cabling . . .

All those wires can be run along and under the carpet, rear seats, et cetra. I wouldn't necessarily recommend replacing the speaker wires in the car, as it will suffice for many needs. Then again, your components may be the exception to the rule. I'd see what Polk recommends on how to hook those up, and just follow their recommendations. I personally would drill a round hole in the upper portion of your door panel, or perhaps in the pillar, and flush-mount the tweeters in there. Yum. :-)

Oh, and one more thing: solder and crimp everything! No loose wires and electrical tape. It only creates more problems later on, not to mention a big mess. Crimp connectors make it really easy to change out certain things, and soldering connections will almost guarantee that you will always have a solid connection. Soldering really isn't hard to do, or learn. I'll probably take the iron out to my car this weekend, and fix the mess the previous owner made of the stereo wiring. :-( If you have any more questions, there's plenty of people with plenty of knowledge about car stereos on the board . . . good luck with your install man, it sounds like it's gonna be really nice, literally, and figuratively. ;-)

[Well Whoop De Do]

Hey Thanks for the advice! I've got the crimpers and I know how to solder. I did it right the first time when I installed the stereo and gauges!

As for the tweeters I was thinking about putting them on the door sill. It's kind of hard to put them on the A pillar where I have my gauges. Do you think they would sound good there? I guess I could always listen before I drill.

I don't quite understand what you said about grounding the amps and resistance to the head unit. So I should ground the amps to the trunk? Also I heard you should not directly place the amps on the frame. Any suggestion to where and how I should put the two amps? I want as much trunks space as possible!

[elbles]

Well, you're well off knowing how to solder and crimp, that's the best thing you can know how to do.

Yeah, I definitely think that they would sound good on the door sill. If absolutely nothing else (which isn't the case), you will have moved the most directional part of a sound system closer to ear level, which will make a huge difference at all volume levels. If you can angle them, all the better.

With regard to grounding the amps, you want it grounded to the chassis (i.e bare metal). Your head unit is also grounded, and you want as little electrical resistance as possible between the head unit's ground source, and the amplifer's ground source. If some resistance exists, it can induce noise into the sound, which isn't good. :-) Put simply, the grounds for the head unit and amps don't need to be the same, but they should be as close to being the same, electrically speaking, as possible. Sorry if this doesn't make sense, I just can't think of a way to explain it any clearer. :-(

I would definitely recommend against mounting the amp directly to the chassis though. No idea where to mount them in your S14 either . . . any ideas from anyone else around here, keeping the maximum trunk space requirement in mind?

[Well Whoop De Do]

I think I know what your saying. If possible ground the Amps as close to where the head unit is grounded? If that is so, wouldn't I want a the ground wire hooked up to where the head is? -Or maybe under the hood?

[elbles]

Yes, but physical location isn't a boundary when you are talking about electrical conductivity. :-) Look at it this way: take a piece of wire that has no breaks in it, and it will conduct electricity from end to end. Take a piece of wire that is corroded at one end, or at any point in between the ends, and there will be resistance to the flow of electricity. The same is true with a car's chassis, you want to choose ground locations that are very conducive to the flow of electricity between each point, because it helps keep the grounds the same. It's not the easiest thing to understand, and I'm sure I'm not the best at explaining it, but hopefully this will give you some ideas (or questions :-)).

[Well Whoop De Do]

No. I understand. So use the meter to to find the least resistance. Thanks!

[Well Whoop De Do]

I have come across my first problem after reading all the instructions for all the equimpemnt. It's about the sub inclosure. It is a Q logic and it is not very specific about the instructions. It came with this large carbord tube. I have no idea what it is for. And there is this chart that it doesn't explain what it means! I think it wants me to cut the box open or something, but I was told when I baught it, it was a sealed inclosure, which is what I want. Should I just forget the tube and put it in?

[Woodmister]

This section is very helpfull --> http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/

This specifically for amp installing -->http://www.teamrocs.com/techni...l.htm

[Well Whoop De Do]

I have got a couple of questions that aren't quite answered in those links.

I have the power cable running next to the RCA cables (2) and speaker wires (4) and the signal wire. Will this cause distortion? There are all monster cables and high insulation wires.

And what do I do when I first start it up? In that link it said not to hook up the RCA cables the frist time you start it up. What about the speaker cables? Should those be hooked up the first time I start it up? I just don't know what to do and all my manuals don't say.

[Woodmister]

The RCAs, next to the Power wire CAN cause "engine noise" with is a sort of whine like sound.

It really doesnt matter how you hook up your system, but follow these rules:1st, hook up your ground to your amp2nd, hook up the power wire3rd, then your RCAs go last

Thats the way I have always done it, and it seems to work out fine w/ me...

[Well Whoop De Do]

Ok. I put the whole thing together and tested it for the first time a little while ago. Good news and bad news. The bad news is that their is major distortion to the MM6 speakers up front. I tested it for a while and the rear speakers played music and so did the front (LOUD). I then fiddled with the RCA connections hooked up to the AMP powering the componetns. The distortions was gone! And then it was back! And then it was gone! It looks like the gain and the RCA inputs have a loose connection insided the amp. And it is real touchy. So I think I found the problem and I am going to return the amp.

I hope that distortion didn't damage my precious Polks! ;_;.