I finally had the time to spend a few hours, running through the procedure to test for a Code 21(no spark), even though I didn't have any error codes.
Honestly, I had the time during the week, it's just we had a bad storm move through the area last weekend and lightning blew out the transformer in the yard and I got hit with the discharge that jumped 8 feet through the air to the car. Humans make for a very good ground. Hurt like a mofo, so any dark clouds and I was
Back to the wiring. Basically, test your PTU according to the FAQ in the Tech section and then test the resistance of every wire in the sub-harness. Go buy good electrical contact cleaner, get some fine grit sand paper and clean the male pins.
Following, a code 21 procedure, test all your voltages, grounds and signal wies for your coils, test the PTU signal to grounds. Luckily, I didn't have to test ECU to PTU wires. As for the PTU sub-harness connections, since mine are a little too loose for my liking, I am using 2 zip ties to ensure the connectors are solidly connected. Also, make sure the arrow on the PTU is pointing down so the internal vent is positioned correctly.
While your at it, ohm your coil packs and ohm your injectors. Pay careful attention to the wires and look for breaks in insulation and corrosion. Make sure you calibrate your TPS and clean those connections, mine was off by quite a margin and was the reason for the rich condition.
Clean the CAS connections too and verify your timing. Mine was correctly set at 15, which is a big relief. Finally, make sure to clean your air filter, MAF and the MAF connections.
After all that, my idle is smooth as glass with a variance of ~20 rpm @ 850rpm, I'm not randomly dropping a spark every few seconds and getting a "puh.....puh..puh" in the exhaust note and it's not running rich anymore.
I want to thank all the posters here for the zillions of FAQs, stickies and posts. Tons and tons of knowledge here, to the point I didn't need to even post to ask for help.
Clean those connections people!
