jumped two teeth on chain

[MojoMan]

As I was finishing up on some head work late last night and putting the timing chain back on the cams, I noticed the chain was binding partly because the chain was not on the chain guide properly so I took the chain off of the cams to fix it and set the cams and timing back right and tightened everything back up and proceeded to spin the crank with the ratchet to make sure everything was ok it binded for a second and then the chain poped back on at the crank and it jumped off two teeth. I tried to drop the chain down a little bit to see if I could get the chain to rotate a little but have had no luck. I dont want to have to take the timing chain cover, water pump and crank pully off to realign but I know thats the right way, I just wanted some suggestions on if anyones ever had this happen and were you able to correct the issue without removing more s***.

[SpeedRacer1]

Yeah, when you take the timing chain off the sprockets, crap happens. The only real good way to fix it is to remove the front cover and then redo the timing.

[quiksilvia]

thats da troof ^ ive heard its hella hard to let the chain of the crank, like you ahve to try to do it, how did u pull that off? but when u get it back on, make sure u keep it tight.

[MojoMan]

I started to pull the water pump and crank pully off last night. Any good advice as what to watch out for when pulling the crank pully off and what all did you take off? -lets say you did the t-chain.

[180fan]

remember to loosen the cam bolts so all the valves will be closed. When pulling the crank pulley, inspect for cracks otherwise you'll be in the same boat as me, looking for a crank pulley although I just found one. When you're pulling, make sure you've got a pulley puller that's large enough not to fall into the hole for the crank pulley bolt as it'll shred up the threads if you're not careful. If you are to do it, get a series of washers that are just big enough to fit in the hole and not interfere with the pulling of the pulley (make sure it won't get gripped by the sides of the crank pulley) and put the crank pulley bolt in to use that to have the pulley puller push against. Just have alot of washers and you should be fine to use a pulley puller, that is if you've got one that's not big enough to not fall into the crank pulley bolt's hole. Mine was seized so I also had a hell of a time getting it off. Might want to try some wd-40 or some other penetrating grease once you've got the crank pulley bolt out and let it sit overnight. When you do get to pull it, pray to god you don't have a jacked pulley that'll break on you like mine did.

[MojoMan]

Fortunatly I do have a spare pully. Thanks for the advice thats kinda what I was thinking. I was curious about when I set the # 1 cyl to tdc and when I go to bust the bolt out with an impact it will throw the tdc # 1 off wont it? Either way its no problem as I know how to get it back by using the all the identifying marks so......

[180fan]

you could always stick a screw driver into the cam sprocket. I did it that way...a bit savage but yeah it works. Then took off the bolt using a good ol' torque wrench. I did that for both cams. After the cams were pulled, I didn't worry too much about the crank pulley.

[MojoMan]

I used to do things like that and everynow and then its ok to do things like that on hubs and things like that but something like this I will do it the most correct way I can. If it spins it spins and as long as the cams are off and the t-chain is secured to were it wont fall down then the impact will work.Im trying to remember if I have to drop the oil pan but I dont think I have to looking at my spare BLOWN block.

[180fan]

well since this is an sr, I forgot that on the cams there's a hexagonal part behind the sprockets. You can't miss it if you look for a couple of seconds. Put an open ended wrench on that part to keep the cam from moving and you should be able to take the sprocket without much fuss.