Jimmy's - '91 Nissan 240sx/Silvia ★ SuperOK! ★

[tek18b_jimmy]

My name is Jimmy and if you are on zilvia or a couple facebook pages you may have seen my car/bay pop up. ive had the car since 2006, and have been building/putting parts on it since.. im going to try and make the build up on here short and sweet until i turbo (when funds allow), then i'll keep a more in-depth thread going on here.

First and foremost i've done just about 95% of the work on the car except machine work to the head. the only way i let someone else work on my car is if i dont have the proper tools or dont feel 100% comfortable doing the job. In the begining i didnt have my own house and garage. i now do and can work on it with confidence. :

I bought the car in late 2006 after I graduated for 800$ it had an Intake, Header and 3" exhaust. It had a stupid frp invader style front bumper that I ended up busting the lip up pulling into a gas station 6 months later, so I found a pignose bumper to replace it. I cant find any pictures of it before the pignose bumper.

It was maroon so I painted it to match the rest of the car and painted the faded, scratched hood primer black. I think I had owned it for about a year at this point.







I took the valve cover and intake off, cleaned them up, and painted them.



Car Stayed like that till may of 2009 when I think the head gasket had a slight crack and was eating coolant slow enough to not smoke but was MIA when I would check.

So I ordered a bunch of head parts. Brian Crower 264/264 camshafts, Brian Crower Titanium spring and retainer kit, Brian Crower .5mm bigger valves, ARP Head stud Kit, Cometic Head Gasket, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump. So I took a friends head to the machine shop and had it squared up and some new valve guides, valve seats and a 3 angle valve job and hot tanked.







Soon after, but not all at once, I ordered some interior parts, Bride GS seats from Group Buy #2 on here, Team tech Harnesses NRG Quick release, MOMO 320mm Tuner Steering Wheel, Nismo White Shift Knob, AEM Wideband o2, Stri Water Temp/Oil Pressure gauges, Apexi SAFC II.

Seats/harnesses


wheel/gauges (picture credit- Tom Janz)


About March of 2010 I ordered a Silvia Nose cut from JDM Engine Zone in Clifton NJ. when it arrived, I installed it that night in my pap's garage after work, which at the time was FREEZING!









A couple of energy drinks and some PB Blaster the old was off







I was up pretty late but got it done so I could drive it the next day.











for a while till it warmed up I drove around like that. then once the weather warmed up I primered it black and traded my trunk for one with a spoiler.





I also got some pedals at this point. Razo pedals. like the ones nakazato had in the live action Initial D.



I ordered Tanabe Sustec Pro Coilovers and bought some new wheels to go with them, Drift Z 517 wheels.





in February of 2011 I had the car painted by a friend at maaco. two-tone super white and dark grey. the day I brought it home, I put the black stripe on it before work.



after I painted the wheels silver I went to a couple meets and car shows with it.

(photo credit-Tom Janz)




my soon to be wife and I were moving out into our own place so I kind of stopped working on it and was just driving it. that's when I picked up a 92 Nissan Hardbody from a co-worker for 350$ despite sitting for a year it was a solid frame and ok body. since it was a parts truck and owned by my friend for a looong time I knew the engine and transmission was good.

the day I brought it home.



2 weeks later I did a full tune up. new filters, oil, belts, plugs/wires/cap/rotor.

a week after that a d21 pickup friend gave me some blocks/shackles and sold me a set of wheels. we painted it in his garage gloss winter grey.





a little bit later he sold me some flares.



both vehicles in the driveway..





one foggy morning before work.



also did an LED Lights in the cluster.

before


after


with the others lit up



OCT 2011 snow...



cont.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is where things went bad.

On Nov 22nd 2011, I was working with someone and stopped at Mc Donald's. he drove away pretty quick and I was trying to see where he was going, so after my bite of food I set my food on the seat and drink in the ashtray spot and backed out started to drive forward,

BOOM! I was barely outta the clutch and bumped into a concrete light pole. the big mac and sweet tea ended up on the passenger floor. looked up and saw the hood kinked. mean while there was about 3-4 manager/corporate guys in the double lane drive-thru watching this all go down.. so I shut the car off, pulled the ebrake and jumped out. saw the broken glass head light. said the F-word a buch of times and called the wife. then AAA. I coasted the car back and into a parking spot. the manager must have called a guy out and sweep up the glass from the headlight. so after getting the run-around between the police and AAA, they sent a rollback out to get me and take the car home.



I remember a while ago someone noticed this. so I made a collage.



after getting it home and inspecting the damage. there was no frame/engine/radiator damage. just body damage to the bumper and fenders.



after I took the bumper/fenders/hood/lights off my uncle and I hooked the car to a pole in the driveway and my step-dad beat on the core support while backing up so I could straighten the radiator hose back to normal.



deciding a day or 2 after that the no body panels would line up with the core support I chopped it off.

folded the wiring back



first cut



GONE!



I started to think how I was going to fix this since I sold the silvia nose cut core support to a friend. I pulled the engine and put in on a stand and covered it till I needed to work on it.



I ended up deciding on tubs and a front end like this...



2011 was warm enough through December that I could work in the driveway and weld the tubs in place. so out with the old in with the new.



stripped the OEM seam sealer and welded/patched parts of the frame and bay.





one side done, onto the other side.





tubs done and back on the ground.



my father in-law let me put the car in their 1.5 car wide garage and work on it in there. since it was inside I started on the chassis wiring in my living room. don't mind the alien eyes dog.

started with a rats nest.



slowly started to separate and run the wiring from the SMJ to behind where the A/C box was.





layed it on the dash bar and figured out where it needs to be routed/lengthened/shortened and where I needed to make the splices for soldering.



most of it tucked away nicely.



I finally ordered the loom and heat shrink to finish it.

brake booster



wiper motor.



time to get back to work on this thing.



had my amazing wife help me. we pulled up the street around the corner to my uncles garage and suspended it on the engine hoist.





put some stuff on the motor and plugs some holes to degrease it with super clean. (this stuff is AWESOME)





after the cleansing, back on the stand it went for teardown and paint.



oil pan off



remember when I built the head in 2009? well i dropped a washer and it fell down into the oil pan after trying to grab it with a skinny grabber tool. it was there for 2 years and 10-15kmiles...



front covers off



pulleys and brackets off and ready for paint



painted front covers, oil filter neck, thermostat housing



laid out and lined up for paint



all cleaned up, painted, and back on with new seals.



oil pan on, with nothing inside of it...



took the engine to the car to start on the wiring for that. had a helper come out to the garage for a little.



engine in for engine wiring mock up.



engine in for engine wiring mock up.



started with the injectors, coolant temp sensors, and crank angle sensor wires.

loomed and plugged in.



MAF plug



coil cluster



starter wires



you can see the routing of the wires.



test fit radiator



with most of the engine harness done. i figured i would finish the chassis/interior/lights harness.

made a ground block that bolts to the body.



cluster has power.



dome light and radio power.





all lights working.

[tek18b_jimmy]

Since my two-tone fenders were kinked near the corner light and headlight brackets out of spec, my friend that is doing a silvia front on his coupe let me borrow his fenders and hood to fabricate the core support and headlight brackets.

fabrication begin!

core support tube after bending into shape



side mounting tabs



bolted support in and taped lights in place for headlight brackets



head light brackets



both welded up and ready to mount, but first i needed to replace the rusted lower support first.



cut it out!





marking for the headlight bracket holes and tension rod brace holes



in my pap's garage to mill access for the tension rod brace bolt plates and other holes for the brackets.





bolt plates for the tension rod braces.



ready to weld in place.



welded and frame rails trimmed flush



my uncle that runs the metal shop i get my metal from cut out some frame patches for me.



drilled some holes to plug weld in place till i welded around the outside of it



not completely done, you get the idea.



time to finish up welding in the bay before body filler.



after I stripped the bay to bare metal it was time to shave and tuck some stuff in the bay. i chose to use fiberglass reinforced body filler mainly because of the heat in the bay, then finish in some spots with regular and a glaze to fill in pin holes.





little more sand, fill, repeat...







Time for primer after a good wipe down to get all the dust clear.







so i sanded the primer with red scotch brite pad. up until this point i have done everything. the only thing i didn't feel comfortable spraying the actual color because i only had a couple hours behind the gun spraying primer which is forgiving in the sense i can sand out the runs or high spots. so i had the friend that sprayed the car in 2010 come over and spray the color and slipped him a couple $$ for the paint and his time..

the color i chose was "viper white". very bright in the sun! i was very happy he sprayed it but there was some runs and fisheye/dirt in it.



so we let it sit for a week or so, then he came back to spray it again. this time i sanded it with 600 grit and right before he sprayed it i wiped it down with a cloth and acetone followed by a tack cloth to get the dust out..



about a week or so later after letting it sit to cure it was time to start putting parts back on.

first was my powder coated crossmember.



i painted my tension rod braces and put those in and put the throttle cable through.



i made some changes about how and where the fuse box was (jammed in the old A/C condenser box). so i took out the box and made a custom duct and plate so the fuse box doesn't fall to the floor and stay behind the blower duct.





all installed and hooked up.





pulled the wiring through and started adding more parts to the bay. also bolted the front suspension on minus the tension rods.





after putting the new clutch, flywheel and transmission together (white bunny setup) my awesome wife came by and was on the floor guiding the transmission while i guided the engine onto the mounts. it was really easy since there was no core support to lift over.



made sure the dash and interior was working still..



motor wired up and ready for the intake materials to get here.



So, i got all the stuff ready to just crank the motor since it hasn't ran for 2 years now. i put a little oil in the spark plug holes to lube the cylinder walls, a little on the cams, timing chain, and left the plugs out so it would crank easier with little to no compression. i tried and the motor cranked a couple times then i saw smoke in front of the valve cover. so i stopped, jumped out and saw the wire for the crank angle sensor was melted through. i unhooked the battery. i was so pissed, that night i had the car towed to my garage.

after fixing the wires and feeding them back through the engine. i cut the belt i was going to run from the water pump pulley to the crank with no tensioner. i think it was too tight and caused the starter to over work. i also had the coil wire hooked up but draped over the lower core support so that could have caused the short..

i wrapped all the spark plug wires and coil wire in little towels and unplugged the igniter, filled the motor with oil and cranked the engine a couple times and forgot the oil filter so there was a puddle on the floor. i put the filter on and cranked it a couple more times and realized im probably flooding it so i stopped. i know its priming and has oil in the top end.

i found the parts for a single belt conversion on a KA24DE.

single cam alternator brackets and thermostat housing and a .25" spacer in between the upper bracket and the alternator.



cleaned up and painted



after i installed that, i put the final touches on the motor. the valve cover was disgusting, so i painted it low gloss black and sanded the letters. this is temporary as i think there is WAAYYY to much Black and Sliver going on in the bay.. i will add color to the valve cover, the intake pipe, and the injector caps to break up the black and silver.





i have ALOT more to do, including -> tucking the brake lines, booster line, clutch line, wrapping wires on the passenger frame rail, building a triangulated strut tower brace, cooling panel to cover the headlights infront of the core support.

Here’s a picture of the garage and truck.



I COMPLETELY forgot about these... i picked them up i think in march of 2013 for 400$ and they've been my coffee table since...the wheels are chrome 17x9 +24 fronts and 17x10 +22 rear. Mustang SC reps. Dont mind the glowing alien eye dogs..





I started the car this morning with my dad who had come over to check it out, and the car had the same problem when I tried to start it before and slightly melted the Crank Angle Sensor ground wire pin in the connector. We found a bad ground at the coil and one from the motor to the body and made sure that it was grounded and the car started up after spitting up a bit. i ordered a pigtail for the CAS and will solder that together when it arrives.



it was LOOUUD as hell since it was just the header and a 12in. extension piece off of that. i need to get the throttle idle corrected and set the timing with a light not by sound. but the motor did run smooth and have plenty of oil pressure and at first the air fuel was ok but when i was lowering the idle at the throttle body the A/F settings were thrown off a bit and wouldn't stay idling and would choke/flood itself and cut/die out so I'd turn the key off. i'll have to mess with the fuel settings on the SAFC II when i get my exhaust pipe, exhaust made and get some extra backpressure as well.

i did some researching and found that NA KA24DE s13 motors don't like it when the secondary butterflies are removed from the intake manifold. the low end RPMs, (i read under 2500) power, and torque is lowered. but high end RPMs (above 2500) felt stronger.

any tips on how i can handle the tuning issue around the idle-2500 rpms if i cant solve it with dizzy timing/fuel? hopefully i don't have to get a stand alone ecu or chipped stand ecu.

Theses are links to the wire loom I used. I think it compares to the techflex brands heat-resistant loom (up to about 260*F continuous and 480*F melt)

I finished my exhaust finally after finding time and the ambition to work in the cold weather in the garage.

I basically started with a cat that was hollowed out by the previously. so I cut the ends off of it and expanded it just so the pipe I had would slide through and stick out long enough in case I wanted to make the whole exhaust slip over pieces. well the expander I used would have taken forever to expand everything.. so I decided to weld it all except the tip portion at the axle back and where the cat meets/slips over the header..





mid-pipe to the sway-bar hoop. you can see the 1st hanger that bolts to the body under the car.



you can see the hanger on the tip portion kind of.







Finally, I put my doors and front end back on, and tested fitment since they somehow seemed ok since I took them off and have left them sit.







The corner light spaces on the fenders need work and the bumper needs more of a support to hold the bumper up better.

[tek18b_jimmy]

Since the car still wasn't idling right, and after some hard thinking of how the engine used to be before I eliminated the pcv tube and capped the nipples under each intake runner, vented the pcv on the block to the air, and had the valve cover pcv teed into the iacv line. I decided to re-do those things on the engine.

this is a before shot... you can see the valve cover line teed into the IACV vacuum line from the intake.



here is an after shot.. new hole for valve cover line in the intake. and you can't see it under the manifold, but I had to make the pcv tube out of hose, tees, and 2 90* fittings since I lost the factory one.






While I had the manifold off I replaced the gaskets and cleaned the IACV with carb cleaner. I also took the adjustment screw out and rubbed it with fine scotch bright pad and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I didn't want to damage the other brass screw trying to take it out so I left it in and sprayed the hell out of it with carb cleaner...


After I did all the work I started it and it idled perfect at 1500rpm and the started to drop as the car got warmer and would actually rev up. I shut it off and was going to time the motor with a timing light. then when I started it and let it run for a minute or so, I had 2nd thoughts and if something went wrong and I couldn't turn it off fast enough. So i tuned the car off and though MEH!! it was running good and didn't have any problems so i went to start it and it just CRANKED... NO Starting..

So i figured, the injectors were clogged. i took the rail off and took the injectors out. i figured while i had them out i would replace the O-rings and fuel fiter in the bay as well as well.. those are the old ones on the bench.





when i drained the tank before i moved the car, i just used the pump and primed it till no fuel came out of the line. so there may have been a little junk left in the tank when i filled it up with new fuel...

I ended up dropping the tank, (only had 5 gallons of fuel) draining it, washing the inside with a pressure washer the best i could, dried the outside and painted it with truck bed liner paint, let the inside and outside dry over night. The next day i wiped the inside the best I could with microfiber towels and installed the tank.



before i put it back in I changed the sock filter on the pump. the other one was nasty and brown and black inside. but still flowed.



after all this i started the car up and it idled and revved just fine.. then after a couple times starting it, it just cranked again with no starting... Sooooo, i began to think it was the injectors again and pulled the rail off AGAIN, and sprayed in the feed side with carb cleaner, and took the FPR off, blew about 20psi of air through the rail and repeated the process 2 more times. i re-installed the rail and started the car, it ran fine. and AGAIN after starting it and turning it off it would crank...

i unplugged the battery, left it sit 2 days and borrowed a friends ecu, i hooked the battery back up and tried to start it on my ecu. it started no hesitation twice. so i have NO CLUE whats up.... hopefully it will keep starting with no problems. Oh and I REALLY need a resonator and muffler for it.. its too damn loud....

I made an axle back with a Magna flow muffler.












So I bought a new battery for the truck and put the red top optima in the car (the reason the car would crank but not fire).

I made some panels for over the lights with some 1/16th inch ABS sheet.





Pulled it put of the garage under its own power. the white bunny clutch seems to work just fine.





Took the Brides out of the truck and put them back in the car, along with the carpet and factory steering wheel, my radio, speakers, door panels, glovebox.



Safety First =)


last piece of the puzzle came in...

















I bought AreoCatch Hood latches to keep it in place =)













I just have to put some RTV inbetween the skeleton and Outter CF part and attach the latches for good..

It is going to get painted at the end of the month by a friend (same friend who painted the bay white). I will be driving it to work and back till then like this to make sure it is running good before paint..

got the hood latches on. =)



finally took it out for a drive to my work..



I forgot my tools, and the car was falling on its face and not revving up so luckily my sister and I ran into our dad and he had a 10mm so I advanced the timing a hair to the end of adjustment on the dizzy. it ran better but is still stumbling a bit. Ive been messing with the SAFC settings and I'm stumped. I am sure the maf selection is correct and since im not turbo I don't use the dec. air settings. Only thing I didn't mess with yet is the tps which shouldn't be too out of wack (it was not correct but I put it back to where it was before I pulled the motor apart) but I will double check it.


The mods to the engine are Brian Crower 264/264 cams, BC .5mm oversize valves, BC spring and retainer kit, stock injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump.

Does anyone have any idea what the fuel percentages/rpm points should be set at? I've tried turning them up and down but I don't think im getting anywhere.. I had searched on here and saw the SAFC thread but nothing pertains to an NA motor with my specifics.

I decided to take the car to work the next day, Saturday. and parked by my self in the furthest spot away from the store away from everyone... so I thought... wtf. I knew a bunch of cars would park around me... when I went to lunch I snapped this..



when I got back from lunch I parked next to my co-workers.

[tek18b_jimmy]

the last week of april I started by putting up tarps/plastic in the garage for paint...


after the garage was done, I started by taking the car apart.

trim first.





body panels..









I put the car on blocks so the painter (friend of mine, JR) could paint the rocker panels. also, Let the masking begin!!



moved my hood to the other building outta the way so it wont get over spray on it. Also started sanding the parts and body with 220 grit on my electric DA sander..



after some arguing and researching in the two-tone thread and finding out my silvia front was originally painted two-tone (as seen in the early pics of getting the front end). I even sanded the fenders and found under the factory black stripe the base coats were two-tone.



these are the colors I chose.



had to fix some spots on the rockers.



JR spraying the white sealer/primer.



first base coat.





the next couple days came and JR sprayed the 2nd base.



followed by the clear coat. then a day or 2 later I started assembly. thanks to the wife, my sister and her BF for helping. =)





pulled it out to re-spray the spoiler and trunk trim piece under the lights.



had another friend come over and help put the spoiler and exhaust on..





Got the black trim tape on... and took the car to Carlisle Performance and Style 2014. had it next to me while i rc drift.



I just rinsed it off from taking the tarps and plastic down and all the pollen in the air and put away for the night..



Its hard to capture the colors in picture since they are metallic, the top looks purple or blue with silver-ish and the bottom looks dark grey metallic or sometimes a brown-ish grey metallic..

i bought the Chase Bays Brake line and Clutch line tuck kits. for OEM master cylinders. the last thing i have to do is find a hose that can handle the vacuum from the brake booster to the manifold. ANY Pointers for that?

I have come to the conclusion that the car needs tuned as well. it runs but needs a FULL ECU tune before taking on any long trips... I will take it to Innovative Motorworks to see John Kerr and have him tune it with Nismotronic when the time comes.

I installed the ChaseBays OEM Relocation Lines for the brake and clutch.

Clutch line.


The Clutch line itself deletes the "dampening box" and attaches to the slave cylinder.


Routed over the bellhousing and attached along the throttle cable, run behind the brake booster and to the master cylinder.


I didn't get a shot of the 3 lines sitting on the bench but there are 2 long and 1 short one.


The short one goes to the driver side line, and the 2 long ones get routed along the cross member with zip ties.


One to the passenger line and the other to the rear line.


Wifey helping bleed the lines. =)


After tucking the booster line along the back of the engine with a cable clamp, here's the finished look.




My friend Robb Stumph took some pictures of the car one night. Here is one of them.


I've had an issue for a while, with almost no bottom end torque, throttle response, spitting/sputtering and hesitation from 2000-3000rpm and decided to (rather got around to doing it) put the secondary butterflies back in the intake manifold and reset the TPS to within factory voltage specs. Did this around the beginning of September for a charity show on the 20th.

Tear down =)


Intake manifold off.


Up on the bench


Swirl valve back on but will not be hooked to vacuum as the butterflies stay open with no vacuum.


Butterflies in and new screws Loctited in place.


While I had all this going on I figured I would clean up and wrap/cover some wires on the passenger side frame rail so they don't stand out as much.

Started with the distributor plug. de-pinning


slipped shrink tube over it. later you will see a finished plug.


The wires I wrapped up were the blue/black fan wires. and sleeved the water temp sensor wires.


Since the car was apart I figured I would paint some stuff too. truck bed wrinkle black on the radiator.




Semi-Gloss Black intake tube.


So the Bay was put back together! The Throttle response after putting the secondary butterflies in and resetting the TPS is ALOT better!!! But it still hesitated so I took the MAF off and sprayed it with cleaner and it got a little better.







Before I took it anywhere I wanted to get RUCAS. I reached out to Nick at Elite JDM and he had ISIS Street RUCAS delivered FedEx next day!! =) guess it helps i only live about 2 hrs from the shop.. But MUCH props for the Service!!!

Put them on that night!


This is MAXXED out negative and Factory Bolt adjusted to max negative. Is there supposed to be more?


Wife brought the kids out to the garage for support! =)


Decided that my ghetto expanding hood prop had to go.. made a small tab to hold a rod I fabbed up quick one night. basically just 1/2" conduit with air tool plug ends grinded down to fit the tab and hood prop hole.




Painted truck bed liner and shrink wrapped the ends to protect the hood.


The rest are just random pics!! =)

[tek18b_jimmy]

I bought the wife and I a Nikon D3300 DSLR. I've been having fun so far!! I Had a camera buddy explain some how to's and technical stuff to me about the features and cause/effect of the Main 3 settings. Here are some I took when I got it =)

Wifey before she trims Isabella's (mom) face hair.


Katsumi (daughter) Benson (dad)


My S13 Silvia Rc drift car


Rc s13 drift car




Lego coffee mug and OLD halloween monkey mask from my great uncles old house.


My rc jzx100 Chaser.


OK onto some of my car from today (11/25)

































As far as Turbo... not yet... I'm not really interested and $$ wise, I have other stuff around my house/property that needs attention first, plus I want a semi-reliable setup. if I do it down the road, a simple t28 setup will do..

Body wise, I would like to get an OEM style Lip and OEM Silvia Skirts and some sort of rear extension valance. I really like 240sxdriftin's mods..

To kick off 2015!!

At the end of November I registered for the Rod/Custom/Tuner Show at Motorama 2015 in Harrisburg, PA. If you've never been to it, it has ALL kinds of stuff going on over 2 days. Supercross style racing with bikes and quads ranging from small 50cc to large size 700cc in all age ranges. go-kart racing, micro wingless sprints, 1/10th and 1/8th scale off road RC racing, Robot Wars, and a bunch of friends hook up and have a big RC Drift Demo/Fun Comp setup somewhere in the venue. Plus a s*** of vendors and Advertisers for different racing venues from all over.

Anyway, My car was "accepted" to be there in the car show portion. So I started prepping the car/cleaning it up/acquiring some new parts.


I started by giving the interior a re-fresh and covering the door cards and glovebox.

Start by using a razor blade and cutting the black skin off the door showing the hardboard shell..


Tools of choice.


under the vinyl skin is a foam skin that needs to come off. most of it pulls off but some sections needed to be scraped and loosened up easily/scraped off.




the tops of my skins were pulling away from the door shell, so the next step is taping off around the door.


I cut up some plastic on account of overspray.


I sprayed under the top section and let it setup for a bit and finished taping the plastic..


trimmed the fabric a little bit extra to tuck into the groove.


this is the spray glue I chose, as it says its good for head liners. I guess that means it should be ok for a little heat..


spray both the shell and the back side of the fabric and let it setup for a couple minutes.




next I laid the fabric on and pressed the fabric into the contours with the back of the screwdriver and tucked it into the groove as tight as I could with the tip.


after its all tucked in I started on the other panel to let the glue cure. once I got done with the second panel I started cutting the excess fabric off with the exact-o knife.






as you cut I recommend tucking the fabric also. it will hide the edge of the fabric.


here you can kinda see the back of the fabric.


since most of the fabric/craft stores in my area have idiots working at them they didn't know what the black plastic vinyl piping was and I couldn't find it myself, sooooo. I found that black Para-cord worked, so that's what I stuffed into the groove to hide the edges of the fabric. no glue was used in doing this, just stuff it in there.







I ended up using leftover fabric to make a shift boot.. had to hand sew it since we don't have a machine and my sister wasn't home to do it with hers.






I don't have much on the glovebox but the same concept applies as far as taking the old stuff off, making sure to cut the piece is big enough to wrap around to the backside. it also needs notched and cut around the lock/handle holes carefully.




after the interior was all but done I started on some of the engine bay parts, cleaning them up for paint.


obiously not the maf but the other parts were glass beaded before new paint...


Bought a couple cool stickers for my garage door =)




I decided it was time to add some color to the engine bay, I started with the valve cover, while it was clean and simple, there was waaay to much black and silver. it just looked monotonous and plain..

I wanted metal flake in Purple, but I cant afford a 200$ jar of House of Kolor flake. So being DIY everything, I looked for other ways to achieve the look of metal flake on a decent budget, not dollar store cheap...

I started by stripping the valve cover, scuff pad, and cleaning it with acetone before spraying high temp primer, then high temp gloss black.



I did some test pieces on some scrap, and it seemed to hold up..


After the black was laid down I used a high temp clear to give the glitter something to hold to.






I also thought that the valve cover wasn't enough and did the strut bar ends.


This is after sanding the letters and the 1st of 2 cans of Spraymax 2k high gloss clear, I used 2 cans to burry the flake/glitter.


Since I had some of the bay apart to freshen up I decided I needed a new header since the pace-setter warped somehow and was rubbing on the steering u-joint.

so I set out to find an s14 tube style and bought a megan racing s14 downpipe.

took the old header off and up on the bench.




started by unwrapping the old one to re-use the wrap on the new one.




I got this off of another 240 friend who went turbo and scored it for an awesome price!!!





after getting all the other wrap off I flipped the wrap over and went to town on the new one..







next thing I had to do was spray it with the high heat silicone spray.






after that I decided it was time to re-do the brake booster since the master cylinder was leaking only after a year of it being on.





instead of being low/satin oem gloss black I went with a high gloss black. didn't think it would look good but it turned out ok against the rest of the bay.




here are some pictures of the bay from the other day I was cleaning out the garage..













i need to get stainless cap screws to replace the front cover bolts on the engine. that will clean it up some for sure. also need to do something with the grille inserts beside the turn signals. mine are broken. i have an idea but haven't had time to make them yet.

Here is some pictures from MOTORAMA 2015

DSC_0401 by super_ok_s13, on Flickr

DSC_0355 by super_ok_s13, on Flickr

DSC_0353 by super_ok_s13, on Flickr

you can see the pieces i cut up and screwed in place of the oem grille inserts that are cracked and impossible to find by themselves.
DSC_0354 by super_ok_s13, on Flickr

NEVER would i thought in a million years would i get ANY award next to some SEMA quailty built cars that were in the same Complex as my '91 240sx.. so... i guess proud moment for me (TOP 60 out of close to 300 other registered cars)
20150222_161936 by super_ok_s13, on Flickr

[GoodzKouki]

Dude it is crazy how much you've done to this car. It looks really good. How far down the road do you think boost will happen?

[tek18b_jimmy]

Thanks GoodzKouki!! Alot has happened in the past 3.5 years of the build since the bump with the pole. I want to fix up the rear of the car and get rid of the rust under the trunk section. So, that being said its far down the road. I want a 16gal fuel cell and probably have to re-do the trunk floor/possibly the rear chassis rails to make it fit. After that, i want to pull the entire subframe for bracing/blasting/powdercoating/new arms/bushings/ect/ect..

[Silvia_Ks_90]

Hey man, build looks solid and very thorough!I enjoy the attention to detail. Not many people these days have had their cars for this length (2005 for me). Can you comment on the quality of the VIS Racing hood in terms of fitment and product consistency?

Also, just for future tip, using 1" exhaust wrap vs. 2" will give you more flexibility when wrapping

[tek18b_jimmy]

Hey man, build looks solid and very thorough!I enjoy the attention to detail. Not many people these days have had their cars for this length (2005 for me). Can you comment on the quality of the VIS Racing hood in terms of fitment and product consistency?

Also, just for future tip, using 1" exhaust wrap vs. 2" will give you more flexibility when wrapping

Thanks for the kind words and advice!!! regarding the fitment and quality.. i have a semi-local friend (45mins away) that has had a bunch of fiberglass and carbon hoods for his 240(s). He noted the same issue i came across comparing it to OEM Metal. on the fender arches highest point, the hood (mainly aftermarket) always sit lower at that point.. i dont have any bumpers under the hood, and if there was any under that section i think it would be too much pressure on the hood flexing it that much and cause cracks in the clear or even carbon/fiber glass. other than that i have zero issues with quality as far as clear coat and gel-coat on the under side.. also on fitment, the gap on top of the headlights isnt as tight as OEM Metal. im not sure if thats from my custom core support/head light brackets or the hoods shape itself... otherwise its well worth the 600$ i spent instead of driving somewhere hours away looking for an OEM Metal one.

SuperOK!