well i purchased a q45 a month ago or so .. and it has been sitting in the drive way for a while. i finally sold my E30 (1988 bmw 325is) and i am now using the q45 as my daily driver.

with the cash from the sold car i have inquired some parts ....

-a set of jic coilovers-18x9 and 18x10 work wheels .. all of them are 0 offset

questions:-i know i probably need my fenders rolled .. but i am wondering how much of a roll? .. or will the fenders need a pull?

-i was looking to convert the suspension arms to aftermarket so i can get correct geometry and good tire wear... will i be able to use s13 and or s14 arms? tie rod? and which arms from what version (s13 or s14) for which arms? (the jic coilovers are specifically for a Y33)

i came across this :http://enjukuracing.com/circui...2_138

and i might purchase lower arms if they work ..

-what size tires should i get?

any help should be good

Thanks to Yokotas from VSCFor more questions i suggest you go to VIPstylecars.com.

check this out............

Quote:First you need to get the parts

Either obtain ALL s13 or ALL s14 parts... It just makes life easy1. LCA's2. Knuckles3.5lug front hub (came on most S14s, but available as aftermarket parts for S13s)4. Coil over strut (double-tap preferable)5. Aftermarket tie-rod ends... S13/14/15/z32 are all the same and fit outer tie rods (optional - ill explain why later)6. Aftermarket tension rods (might as well right?) S14 work on this instance, I’m sure 13 would as well since they are adjustable. S14 is longer than 137. Y33 top hats (adjustable is preferred)

ALL BOLT SIZES ARE FROM MY HEAD, IE MIGHT NOT BE ACCURATE

Ok, the ONLY downside is the sway bar no longer has anywhere to bolt toI disconnected mine because I didn’t have timeBut what ill end up doing is drill a hole through it, and using an s13 sway bar mount bolted directly to it. It won’t be at the exact same mounting points, but I will work.

OkokokokokI’ll get to the actual conversion1. Remove your brakes from the knuckles, and put them aside somewhere (zip tie helps to hold it up).

2. Remove the sway bar vertical bracket, its an internally wrenching bolt, so you need to hold it with an Allen head, then use a 14mm wrench to remove the nut, slide the brace out, and do the same for the bottom, but it’s a 17mm I believe.

3. Remove the tension rod bolts to the LCA. Bottom are 14mm, top are Allen (on my application I had tension rods already)

4. Loosen the LCA bolt to the sub frame, 19mm on both sides. Take the nut off, leave the bolt to support it.

5. Take off the upper suspension top hat nuts, and let it drop. Be sure to hold it so it doesn’t smack you in the nuts like it did me the first time.

6. Smack out that LCA bolt and BAM its out. Throw it to the side.

7. Put the Y33 top hats on your new coilovers.

OK for installation you need to pay attention to a few things.1. Make sure your new coilovers have appropriate springs. When I order my new coilovers soon I’m going with a 12/10 so when I put airbags on it, it will be valved correctly for the stiffness I want. Everyone will be different.

2. Install the hub on the knuckle, and the new tie rod ends onto the tie rod.

3. READ THIS PART******************************If YOU DO NOT HAVE THE AFTERMARKET TIE ROD ENDS YOU WILL HAVE TO BORE OUT THE BUSHING THAT THE TIEROD SHOULD GO INTO. I DON’T HAVE A MEASUREMENT, I COMPLETELY FORGOT TO WRITE IT DOWN, BUT JUST DREMEL, AND TEST FIT…OVER AND OVER.

4. install from reverse

5. I recommend LCA first, then tension rod, then tie rod end, and then install the shock to the body, then the knuckle to the shock.

6. Install your old brake rotor, and caliper, and put on your wheel after you double check and make sure everything is tightened.

Now would be a good time to do a brake upgrade if you want to. I put on GTR calipers with R33 brake rotors. Bolts directly up using the lines that came on the brakes on the gtr.

Other than that, it’s fairly straightforward. If you’re not doing hella aggressive driving don’t even worry about the Sway bar in the front. Only reason I am is because I want to track my car next year, so I need it. Also, if you don’t get ABS hubs, you won’t have it. I got NON ABS hubs, because I HATE abs. I don’t like electronics getting in my way of the feel of the road.

Regardless ill go with a few meters:DIFFICULTY-7 mainly because of the common sense needed that a lot of people don’t have. You may have to source hardware if you don’t have it for things like the coilovers mounting on the knuckle. Also if you change your brakes you have to know how to bleed them etc etc.

TIME- It shouldn’t take you more than 4 hours from start to s*** took me 3, and I changed my brakes, bled the entire system, put trust brake fluid in and rebled the whole system, and then installed everything, forgot to change out the springs, dropped the strut to change springs, then the tie rod end didn’t fit so I had to bore it out etc ect.

Now get out there and do it!

One point is that this setup is LOW. Double-tap coilovers are recommended to maintain a "low" stance. Single-tap coilovers will give you a "slammed" stance at the highest setting.

Info on the rear suspension will come soon. Reports are that S13 struts with S14 tops are a perfect fit.... Watch this space

I'll be doing this as soon as i can get my hands on the parts required, and should post pics when i get them.

And before anyone gets a chance to mention it... Yes, S13s are MUCH lighter than the Y33s... BUT, as far as coilovers are concerned, the normal "street" use S-chassis coilover has the same spring rates as the JIC coilovers for Y33s (F7/R5)

that's the process for using s chassis coilovers on a y33. from what i gather he has y33 coilovers so it does not apply.

as far as the arms it's not quite a science yet. some people use s13, some use s14, some work, some don't. for what it's worth a lot of companies sell the same thing marketed differently across the z and s chassis so it makes sense that they're all reasonably similar. might just have to take a leap of faith. tension, toe, and traction i would imagine anything would work as long as it's adjustable. ruca might be a different story...

i'm not familiar with circuit sport, although i have seen their name thrown around. not necessarily saying that they aren't nice but suspension isn't the place to cheap out. i would definitely do some research if you haven't already.

BLACKonBLACK98 wrote:that's the process for using s chassis coilovers on a y33. from what i gather he has y33 coilovers so it does not apply.

as far as the arms it's not quite a science yet. some people use s13, some use s14, some work, some don't. for what it's worth a lot of companies sell the same thing marketed differently across the z and s chassis so it makes sense that they're all reasonably similar. might just have to take a leap of faith. tension, toe, and traction i would imagine anything would work as long as it's adjustable. ruca might be a different story...

i'm not familiar with circuit sport, although i have seen their name thrown around. not necessarily saying that they aren't nice but suspension isn't the place to cheap out. i would definitely do some research if you haven't already.

Black, did you do your own work on your car? How difficult was it to get those coilovers on? I'm trying to figure this whole thing out. With the price I'll be paying for the coilovers, I may as well learn how to install them.

As for the arms, I put Cusco S14 RUCA's, Toe, and tension rods on mine after I used Y32 coilovers. I chose the Cusco ones because they are the largest of all thats out there and should handle the extra weight of the Y33 better.

FYI, the ruca's will take some work once the coils are on. People that say they don't fit probably just didn't compress everything when they went to put them on. When the car is in the air mine actually hit the coils, but under compression there is no chance of rubbing while driving.