Jerks/Loosing Power above 5K RPM code 301 flashing

[eye_sm]

2011 Juke SL 1.6 Turbo
-I have scoured the internet. I am spitting a 301 code (cP0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected)
-it also flashes at me when this event happens then goes away when I take my foot out of it
-150000 miles
-Original plugs (LOL I know start there)(will do this weekend)
-Oil leak by the coil pack from the timing chain recall....will try and seal that up may be shorting out the coil pack
-Will swap #1 and #4 coil pack when I do plugs
MAF and O2 replaced

********Car accelerates fine under normal driving habits, and will go fast from a light or initial acceleration down to the floor until it hits the higher RPM when I have my foot in it.
*************Turbo, appears to be functioning correctly on my little readout

I did see something about an intake leak or leak to the turbo hoses clamps ????? Pictures of this would be helpful if someone has done this
Crank Sensor and cam sensor next on suspect list?????????

Thanks All!!!!!!!!!

[eye_sm]

Ok, did plug change and although you have to take some stuff off to get to them, not that bad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=et9M9BTp3mE
Only one video online, but he is pretty accurate on what gets removed.

-Old plugs with 147000 miles on them and they were well done for
-Old Gaps at.075+ and burn rings around start of porcelain. Factory gap is .035/36 (LOL)

-No puddle of oil like I expected in the holes shorting the coil packs out they were dry for the most part.
-Will plan on changing the valve cover gasket next time around.
-Did mark and switch them around in case code comes back and it is a coil pack P0301 code should move to cyl 4 now
-#2 had a little extra moisture on the threads (oil or possibly unburnt fuel from cyclinder) so will monitor it

Power back and no lugging jerking stalling above 4-5K RPMS

I would think if you had a coil packs drowning in oil and intermittent to severe miss codes you may get the same symptoms as me but unsure.

Good luck everyone.

[macgiver]

mac here, regarding oil on coil packs , as an electrician , the basic facts are that oil ,virtually all ,even motor oil (except for that now defunct Arco graphite -conducts electricity) is a total insulator . For your highest power lines@ utilities ,like 75KV, 150KV (kilo-volts) etc. will have oil inside the switches and x-formers as insulator and coolant ! So if motor oil is sprayed on a coilpack virtually nothing no ,shorting will "immediately" happen or I'm betting even a submerged in oil coilpack won't "definitely nor immediately" have to to fail . for all automotive elecronics must to a high degree be resistant / immune to motor oil & greases which permeate all engines soon in time !
Here's the kicker - IN TIME though use of poor plastics ,and shoddy parts designs ,oil will cause slow -progressive failure , though much slower in better designed & quality components .I've learned myself that checking the plugs is so often the best , first thing to look at ,they virtually "tell all" and can point to coil pack ,oil consumption ,detonation , cracked porcelin , ad infinitum .

[amc49]

Yes and no. CLEAN oil won't conduct but used motor oil WILL as it has lots of free carbon in it. Look at the plugs above for some proof, the 'rust' is not that at all, rather cooked oil vapor as those plugs picced have zero rust on the plated bodies, evidence the brown is more likely oil residue fired through a million times. VERY common for DOHC plugs to build up deposits to short down the outside of the plug glass like shown there.

Automotive coils are commonly packed in oil inside the cases to cool them...............

[macgiver]

mac , good mention amc49 , on the point - dirty engine oil becomes slightly conductive with accumulated carbon and other contaminants. Luckily that "high impedance" conduction has absolutely no deletrius effect at 13.8v car voltages , any remote possibility is always and easily engineered in the "electronics" .Absolutely where amc is talking -the secondary wiring / ckt., with nowadays 45kv + voltage is THE place dirty "carbonized" oil conduction matters .
We do see in the pics that all the plugs have still well over an inch of spotless insulator(takes 3,000volts per 1 mm of gap= 75,000 volts over the porcelain in "free air" - with silicone boots over the "ribbed" pocelain now becomes approx. 125,000 volts needed to short - not happening - didn't happen here ) what appears to be clean ,all-around insulators and with no carbon tracking (assuming he would of positioned any tracks on top to view) , and so here it really looks like obvious old plugs with two center plugs being shorted / oil fouled-tips. If plugs are in fact placed in order , many engines epecially turbos ,running hot in the "heart" of the motor to have these type problems - valves ,rings ,gaskets pre-mature wear - & resultant fouling , like what we see here .Respectfully Glen
2/18/2018

[amc49]

'... with silicone boots over the "ribbed" pocelain now becomes approx. 125,000 volts needed to short...'

Uh, or so you think.............the airspace inside the boot gets ionized and any water vapor in there too and the spark then follows the RUBBER boot interior to short to finally jump at the rust/carbonized oil. I've seen the plugs short through that way more than once, electricity being some weird acting sh-t. My Fords are well known for doing it, simply cleaning the last 1/2 of the glass that is carbonized there and the boot interior degreased as well (the oil wicks up the rubber) and the same plug regapped closer to the OEM gap then goes back to running fine.

Going further..........if the ignition type is COP or 4 or 6 coils the plug is the wrong type. Consider all five plugs shown there. Look CLOSE at 1 and 4 and the wire electrode, the little divot or bump on it. The others are missing that bump and the bump is for double platinum plugs which are only intended for waste spark ignition systems that use one coil for every two cylinders. A total waste of money on a COP system. The little bumps are barely spotwelded on and come off easy as spit in use and sometimes missing even on brand new plugs if you are not looking for them. One of them missing is an immediate gap increase of maybe .007"-.010" or the difference in maybe 20-30k miles of use and one big reason for a misfire to be much easier to occur. Compare the used plug with divot still there to the other three and notice the whopping increase in gap there, they obviously came off while plugs were being used.