JDM guages...

[DriftinCA]

alright, I did a search and couldn't find what I needed... if you can find it give me the link, not trying to start a flame

alright, so I got my CA wired up in my 89 and it runs great... but now neither the stock or the JDM guages will work with it... the gas gauge and the seatbelt lights and stuff work but the tach and speedo don't. I'm assuming that the pinouts are different... I was wondering what wires I needed to splice to get them working correctly...

[nocwage]

Pin 7 on the ECU is the tach signal, make sure you've got it matched up with your harness.

http://www.innovatemotorsports...X.php

[ca18detpowered]

make sure yellow with a red stripe coming from the computer going up to the glovebox area is connected

was your car an auto to manual swap. My friend did an auto to manual swap and we couldnt figure out wtf his speedo wouldnt work. Well it turns out the automatic is set up just slightly different. i found a six prong plug by the fuse box/battery that didnt go anywhere....and i found a 4 prong plug on the cars wiring in that same location that didnt have anywhere to go. So...i matched 4 of the six wires by color, voila working speedo....and also he had a problem where even tho he turned off the ignition...the car would leave the dummy lights on LOL.....and that fixed that problem too.

good luck

[DriftinCA]

it was a 5 speed to begin with... I guess I'm just gonna start cutting and sodering wires the old fashion way...

I've got to figure it out, I wanna put the dash in it so it's ready to drive soon as my bracket to hold the driveshaft shows up...

oh yea, and you guys think 12psi would be alright on stock everything but intake and bov?

[ca18detpowered]

just match the six wires by the glove box.

look at the heavythrottle guide, itll tell you everything you need to know..

12 psi is safe...but i would set it to creep to 12 and drop to 10. That would be more reliable. I run 10 that same setup and mine is pretty competent and reliable.

[DriftinCA]

sweet, thanks for the advice...

I took the car on it's first test drive today, and it made it back to the garage!

I'm gonna work on the wiring tomorrow... everything but the tach is working... also, I think it's the check engine light is on but it might be a wiring boo boo, I don't know, how do you check codes on these old cars? I drive a 98 gsr integra daily so when it throws a check I just plug it into the computer... and advice?

[float_6969]

Code checking procedure is listed in the FSM. It's available for DL via a link in the stickies.

[ca18detpowered]

sounds like a wiring booboo

all you need is

yellow/red stripeyellow/green stripeorangeblackblue/green stripeblue/black stripe those all get matched to the same color

the only way you need to wire up teh rest is if you have a consult or are ever gonna use consult (nissans code scanner)

[DriftinCA]

thanks guys... I'll post up some pics of my build up.... I got the car for 100 bucks... and now I'm at 3g's with the half cut, basic suspension, and misc. stuff that I needed...

[biosehnsucht]

and consult no workie on the CA's anyways.

[float_6969]

Yea, bio is right, the CA, 8bit ecu, is pre-consult. All you basically get with that pluging is a stupid little box with a switch, a green light, and a red light. EXACTLY the same as the ECU.

[DriftinCA]

welp, I figured out my gauge problem and got the tach and the temp gauge working... you guys have any clue why when I get into boost it kinda falls on it's face?cuts out and misses, vaccum leak? I hooked them up like the diagram that someone put on here

[float_6969]

Have you pulled the codes on the ECU yet? Is the knock sensor wired up?

[DriftinCA]

as far as I know I've got everything hooked up... there's a few wires that aren't but it's running fine and all gauges look good... I haven't pulled ecu codes yet though, I"ve still got to figure out how to... I'll try it tomorrow

thanks for all the help so far, sorry to keep asking questions... this is my first time ever doing anything but routine maint. on a car... nevermind that I've never even done that on a Nissan before... so, I'm definately a n00b

[ca18detpowered]

Can you get it past 2500 rpm?

If you cant...check your maf wiring, what maf are you using

If you can...sounds like boost leak....check it all.

[driftin8ez]

did you run a wire from you knock sensor directly to the correct pin on the ecu with shielded wire? If not that is part of your problem. Also i would check for vacumm/boost leaks as well.

[DriftinCA]

Can you get it past 2500 rpm?

If you cant...check your maf wiring, what maf are you using

If you can...sounds like boost leak....check it all.

yes, I can get it past 2500rpm... I've revved it past 6000 slowly in neutral...

but when I was getting into boost the other day is when it was cutting out. I was in the process of installing a boost gauge at the time so it coulda been a leak. I'm going to give it another drive in a little bit and see if it's still cutting out.

and as far as the knock sensor goes, I got the halfcut from jarco. I pulled the engine and everything with all of the wiring harness still hooked up to the engine. and just moved the ecu over and hooked it back up. there might be a problem there, is the knock sensor located on the head? I'm still trying to figureout everything on these engines.

once again, sorry for all the noob questions... I'm getting better I swear!

[ca18detpowered]

yes, the knock sensor needs to be wired individually, as the wire that it goes to does not match up in any way to 240sx wiring. Its under your intake manifold, on the block itself, its got one white wire coming out of it.

if you follow the wire thru the harness, youll notice it goes to a plug which does NOT plug into your car.

but i dont know if that is the problem, as my friend has been running without the knock sensor hooked up for a year now (stupid, i know. i just figured that out on mine and told him to check his lol)

[float_6969]

yes, the knock sensor needs to be wired individually, as the wire that it goes to does not match up in any way to 240sx wiring.

This isn't entirely true. The SOHC KA's lacked a knock sensor and therefor lacked the wiring. The DOHC KA's DID have a knock sensor and DO have the appropriate wiring. You've just got to figure out which wire is which and I believe you've got to move a wire under the fuse box by the battery and then hook up the correct wire in the 2 plugs behind the battery.

For most it's easier to just run the wire for the knock sensor directly to the ECU.

[DriftinCA]

welp it's running all the way to 7k now... haven't taken it past that yet. guess it was a vaccum leak where I was trying to put the boost gauge on it.

one more problem on a side note, sorry to keep bothering all of you. My BOV isn't working, its on a vaccum source. it's the Blitz that comes on the hot pipe. don't know the exact model or anything. it's vented to atmosphere, came on the half cut from japan. any ideas or anyone have one that's working that they'd want to sell?

[ca18detpowered]

are you sure youre getting vacuum at that specific port?

check vacuum, if not, t into the one running the fuel pressure regulator (on the back)

interesting Float......i didnt know the wiring was there on the TC

thanks for that info. Mines single cam car so didnt know. haha

[float_6969]

where are you referencing the BOV from? I actually wouldn't tie it in with the FPR, but pull from the nipple on the outside of the plenum, near the front, down low, behind the throttle body. It's kinda off of the first cylnders intake runner. That is a larger diameter and will move a larger volume of air back and forth.

Sorry ca18detpowered, I'm not purposely following you around and telling you your wrong, I promise!!!

[DriftinCA]

that

where are you referencing the BOV from? I actually wouldn't tie it in with the FPR, but pull from the nipple on the outside of the plenum, near the front, down low, behind the throttle body. It's kinda off of the first cylnders intake runner. That is a larger diameter and will move a larger volume of air back and forth.

Sorry ca18detpowered, I'm not purposely following you around and telling you your wrong, I promise!!!

's

that's where I've got it ran to exactly... just like the diagram floating around on here about the needed vaccum lines. the engine wont run without it hooked up to the bov. could the bov just be fudged? is there a way to "unstick" it? or do I need to try to locate another bov for it? here's a pic of what I've got goin on...

engine bay isn't totally finished, gimme a little more time to clean it up... I put a pic up of after...

[DriftinCA]

first day in garage. Now you guys kinda see where I'm coming from with all the questions. this is the first Nissan or motor swap that I've ever done. Please don't get made with all the stupid questions.

[ca18detpowered]

where are you referencing the BOV from? I actually wouldn't tie it in with the FPR, but pull from the nipple on the outside of the plenum, near the front, down low, behind the throttle body. It's kinda off of the first cylnders intake runner. That is a larger diameter and will move a larger volume of air back and forth.

Sorry ca18detpowered, I'm not purposely following you around and telling you your wrong, I promise!!!

Dont worry im not paranoid. Im new to them too so i dont know that much either. I have my fpr, bov, and wastegate all t'd into the vacuum reference on the back of the manifold and i havent had any issues at all. Stable boost, good performance, no hiccups.

So..anyways.....while the cars running....pull that vacuum line you have on the bov off and put your finger on it. does it suck on your finger? if so you have vacuum. If it doesnt....find a source that does. i have yet to see a bov just sieze.....

[DriftinCA]

it definately has vaccum... the engine dies if it's not hooked up or if I don't have finger over it.