J30t start and stall problem

[joko]

Hi all,

my j30 starts and stalls when cold. Took it to the dealer today to give away $250 bucks for nothing . Fuel pump is fine , timing is fine . Check engine light is not on . Could it be temp. sensor or mass air flow ? Please help !!!

[kbflip02]

Hi all,

my j30 starts and stalls when cold. Took it to the dealer today to give away $250 bucks for nothing . Fuel pump is fine , timing is fine . Check engine light is not on . Could it be temp. sensor or mass air flow ? Please help !!!

use the sticky to check the codes on the ecu...also check fuel filter...could be any number of things though...pull the codes first and then go from there

[GerryO]

Things are OK after the engine is warmed up? Doesn't sound like the MAF unless maybe it's getting damp. Do you park the car in a garage at night? Cleaning the MAF is inexpensive and easy to do, easier than pulling codes, but...

What does the manual say in the trouble-shooting section?

[joko]

Thanks for your sudgestions .

I did some research before I took it to the dealer, because I was not sure and I'm still not what the problem is.

1.This problem occured quickly - over a day or two.2.I only use premium fuel and clean my fuel system on a regular basis .3. Just changed fuel filter and air filter4.I cleaned the MAF sensor- used an air spray (I don't know if that did any good)5.Checked codes at the dealer - no codes stored

It appers to me that the ECM gets a signal that the engine is warm at all times. Good, than I figured it could be a temeperature sensor, but here I read that the J30 doesn't have an air temperature sensor(it's a MAF sensor). Ok now , there should be a coolant temp. sensor, but does this sensor have anything to do with the stalling issue? ... I do not know .

It's funny , because the car start right away cold or warm , but when cold dies almost immediatelly after. To me that means - not enough fuel or not enough air .

Do you have any other sudgestions ?

[GerryO]

From pages EF & EC 197 and 198 of the 1993 manual:

1) check the IACV-Air Regulator and IACV-AAC valve by trying to start a COLD engine with the accelerator fully depressed. If it does NOT start, I guess there is a problem.

2) perform a power balance test by disconnecting injectors one at a time and noting a momentary drop in engine speed

3) check injectors

4) check ignition spark

5) check spark plugs

6) check fuel pressure

7) check ECM harness connector

8) check ECM power supply and ground circuits

Performing numbers 1, 5, 7 and 8 sounds the most worthwhile to me. Did you change the fuel and air filters before or after the problem started?

Hopefully the air spray that you used to clean the MAF was very clean and fairly low pressure. They sell a special aerosol cleaner for MAFs that is clean drying and safe to use around plastics.

[joko]

Thank you for your sudgestions !

I will check all that over the weekend and let you know . In the mean time I found a MAF sensor ( OEM replacement part - new) for $ 85.00 somewhere in New York . Should I go for it ?

Thanks

[GerryO]

I once had a dirty MAF in my '97 F-150; I think it got contaminated by coolant vapors coming from a leaky front cover and water pump. It caused slight misses at the low speed shift points and occasionally violent bucking at freeway speeds, but never any starting or stalling problems. For a while I thought the transmission was the problem.

After changing the timing belt and a number of other things on my J30, I got anxious and started the engine minus the intake ducting. The engine started and ran for a while, before it sputtered and died. The "idle" MAF correctly reported that there was no air entering the engine, so I suppose it shut off the fuel and spark too.

Bottom line is that I believe your MAF is OK and very easily cleaned, if necessary.

[joko]

I cleaned the MAF sensor with a special spray for MAF cleaning following the instructions , but still the same thing . I started the car cold with the gas pedal to the floor and it did start ... went all the way to 6000rpm, but when i releised the pedal died, ?Fuel pressure is good, spark plugs are good. I read in another forum for a j30 that had exactly same problem and it was the MAF, but he git an error code and I dont . This is a mistery for me. It almost seems like the engine always get a signal that is warm all the time ( or at least this is my interpretation )

Sudgestions welcome

[GerryO]

Wish I could be of more help.

When the cold engine does start under normal conditions, meaning you haven't touched the accelerator pedal at all before and when turning the key, what is its' idle rpm speed in Park?

Did it previously start and stay between 1,400 and 1,000 rpm when in gear and stopped with your foot on the brake during the first few minutes of driving?

Try disconnecting the temperature sensor and how about cleaning the throttle bodies?

[joko]

The colds start is just like normal , the engine revs up to about 1300 rpms and then slowly dies. It will restart again, but the same thing will happen if I don't touch the accelerator . If I did though, the rpms will level of at about 700rpm. After a few minutes of driving it's all good. When warm the car starts no problem , but it's not reving up to about 1100-1200rpm like it used to. Today I purchased a new never used MAF sensor for it @ $90.It's a OEM replacement. I know it's not the real thing, but here in Calgary in my local NAPA store they aske $500.00 for a remanifactured one. Holy s..t. By temperature sensor did you mean the coolant temperature sensor ? I have a few new BOSCH platinum 4 available as well, but I don't know if they are good for this car since they aren't for my grand cherokee. I should have the new MAF probably next week and I will let you know what happens.

In the meanwhile, sudgestions are always welcome.

[j30wizz]

I'm having the same problem. Changed MAF, nothing. Spark plugs, nothing. It cranks but it wont start. IDK what else could be it....

[doownehpets]

In the last week I've been having the exact same problem. Got in my '93 J30, started it up.. sat there for about 5 min and had to run inside to grab something came out and it wouldn't start back up. I know about the flooding problem with the j30's and attempted flooring it while cranking it for ten seconds.. it seemed like it was barely getting any fuel. I had recently changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs (OEM). So then my neighbor and I deduced that it could possibly be the fuel pump. After replacing the fuel pump I was able to start it, but the rpm's drop and it died. So unless i give it gas the for the first 30 seconds or so while it's warming to keep the rpm's at about 1100-1200 it dies. Once i've held the gas peddle to keep it alive for a while i let go and it'll idle by itself. But then... unless i warm it up as soon as i put it in gear it dies. It also has a hell of a lot harder time trying to start if it's already died once, probably flooding, but even if i let it sit for a bit. Wen't to pull codes, the only one i get is 55, everything's all good. Haven't tried cleaning the maf sensor yet gonna do that tomorrow. But from everyone's description it sounds like the same problem, hope someone can figure it out.
Modified by doownehpets at 10:16 PM 12/1/2008

[GerryO]

Dirty or failing IAC (idle air control) valve?

[coolyun_98]

Very likely.I the problem is with the electronics (aka sensors and solenoids).

Make sure all sensoe connectors are good.Make sure all solenoids are within standard ohm range.

[driverdriver]

joko,

Has it been cold in the Calgary area? Overnight/day under 0 degrees celsius/32 fahrenheit?

You think you have water in the fuel lines that freezes?

[pugstrip]

hi i have a 94 j30...if it sets for a few days in the cold i will start and quitits done it down south before in florida same thing..the only way i can get it to start is pull the fuse that powers the injectors(or grounds it) and have my wife start the car as i put the fuse back in...as long as she gives it about 1300rpms or so it will run and after a min. or so it fine..i can smell gas when it starts and quits so im going to run an injector/fuel rail pressure check on the set..i think i have a couple injectors sticking openill post later if i make any headway

[yodawill2000]

Cant picture a injector sticking "Open"

one must study the operation of an injector.If its sticking open a major dose of Redline S1 is in order. (Pintle Blockage)The solenoid opens the jet that wants to be closed.

Blockage is all I can think of that would cause that.Any injector master correct me if Im wrong.

[Infinitiguy19]

There is always a possiblilty that its sticking open or that the injector or the O-Ring was pinched during instalation or the rubber and plastic was eaten away by E-10.

Red line won't do miracle work, But it is great, I recomend using BG44k At on oil change and then a bottle of Redline S1 at the next oil change.

[yodawill2000]

ppastos

Redline s1 still has the stuff that BG44k took out a year or so ago.

I learned that over in your Q45 forum.

[Infinitiguy19]

Yea I know but redline must be missing some stuff from BG44K right?

[yodawill2000]

Not sure ..Just know I can pick up some Redline at Pep boys for 7 bux

[Infinitiguy19]

No I am with you there, Just never heard of good stuff being cheap for an infiniti or any other car you really care for, besides ISO-HEET.

EX: 303 Aerospace Protectant, Lexol, BG products and more...