J30 tension rod replacement questions

[juiceman]

When inspecting my underside this weekend due to a loose heat shield I noticed that both tension rods had splitins in them that were very visible with the suspension extended

My question is this

Should I support the car by the frame when replacing, thus letting the suspension hang or support on the control arm to keep the suspension at a natural position?

My only concern with the supporting on the frame is the tension rod seems stretched and unnatural in this position and may be difficult to remove. I was also concerned about additional travel of the strut and control arm when the rod is removed. Thus making it difficult to reassemble. What does control how far the suspension travels when unsupported?

Anyone's thought would be greatly appreciated

[juiceman]

Any sugggestions?

[Q451990]

If I remember correctly, I just had the car supported by the frame with the wheels off. It's been a few years though...

I suppose you could put the car up on jack stands, and then use your jack to move the wheel up into position if you need to line things up for reassembly.

Heath

[juiceman]

Thanks for the reply

Do you remember if the TR is free on the bushing end or if it is held tightly in place? If held tightly in place, should the main bold at the busing be tightened with the suspension in the natural position? Having it tightened in a lowered position could put undue stress and wear on the rubber bushing when the car is lowered.

Sorry for all the questions but I have never done this before and want to do it right the first time

[maxnix]

I think this is covered in the previous posts, so a search might help. I remember the tension rods are not tightened until the car is lowered to avoid stressing the silicon filled bushings and thus accelerate wear.

Maybe this should be in the Infiniti Online Mechanic (Technician) Forum.

[juiceman]

My luck with responses is low in the Mechanic section because there is much more traffic here. I guess I should have tried first

I did do a search but did not come up with anything substantial. I tried many of the Z sites too. I did find out that the bushing for the J is the same as the Q so i may have some options on bushings and will search for them in the q posts

The manual is not specific on this topic.

Thanks for the input though and will post if i find out more

[maxnix]

From TexasOil: From this link http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....arrow

tension arm bushings no problem

Having replaced just the bushings on both of my Q45a's I do not see the problem.

The OEM replacement bushings are just like new. They DO have a correct and incorrect orientation (one half is softer than the other) and the alignment arrow has to go the right way. These are MUCH simpler than same function bushings/mounts used in MBZ, and they NEVER replace entire arm, always just the bushings

Also, the front arm mounting bolts must the tightened up only with car at normal ride height to avoid prestressing the new bushings.

Italics added by me.

The search engine seems to be randomly ignoring words, so search multiple ways.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t

[juiceman]

Thanks alot manix, I really apprciate it

I now have enough to go on, I remember reading the post you quoted but must have skimmed passed some of it. I read over on hour on all the sites and was getting bleery eyed.

I have alocal shop that will do the pressing and I will just remove and replace.

I hope joe can meet the pricing he quote on the site of $15.00 apiece.

Thanks again

[juiceman]

Replaced the tension rod bushings this weekend.

Soaked the bolts with PB Blaster for a few days and everything came off great.

Took to local shop and they charged my $16.00 to press both bushings! My total $66.50 approx $110.00 less than replacing the rod assembly. Only inconvenient part was lowering the ar and tightening the tension rod bolt. Could not get to the proper torque on the ground, so I drove up ramp and that gave me enough room to finish the job

Noticed an improvment in ride but had a question, how much play is considered allowable in the lower control arm busings. I was getting some side to side play (with the TR off) and just wondereded as all this is newer to me

[carlos_knology]

Juiceman, congrats on the DIY repair. I need to do the same thing to my J30 so I was awating your follow-up post.

I wanted to ask you how difficult it was to re-attach the tension rods. I'm wondering if the suspension must be under a significant weight load for all the screw holes to line up when you re-attach it. I'm picturing the car on jack stands with the suspension "hanging down" (no weight load) and I'm not sure if that will cause problems.

Carlos

[juiceman]

send me an email and I will send you the write up I made for someone else.

It was not difficult at all to reattach. Did it with the suspension in the hanging except for tightening the main tension rod bushing bolt. This must be done at the cars normal suspension height to avoid stressing the bushing.

The two bolts on the control arm lift the control arm up to the rod.

Talk to you later

[juiceman]

Made this up for someone else and figured it was good to post as a guide for someone to use. I know I appreciate it when I read posts and get a good followup.

Sorry no pics but I can do a detail for you from what I can remmeber

This is detailed as I would right fro someone not knowing anything, please do not be insulted

A few days before removeing i suggest using PB Blaster or some other penetrating spray to loosen any rusted or seazed nuts

1. Loosen lug nuts slightly, allows easier removal when wheels are free2. Jack up car and place on stands, frame area just before it bends to engine bay. Frame will seem heavier there3. Remove lug nuts and wheels4. Remove the engine lower cover. This will allow access to the back of the main tension rod bolt.5. I then loosened the nuts holding the tension rod to the control arm. Loosen each one a little at a time to not put all the pressure on one . I used a 1/2 rathcet with a small pieve oif pipe to give me more leverage6. Loosen the main bolt holding the tension rod to the sub frame. You may need to use a second socket to keep the bolt from spinning. The nut is a 19mm and the rear bolt head is a 17mm if I remember correctly. Again I used a 1/2 ratchet and a small piece of pipe for more leverage.7. Make sure to note the dots on the arms so you know where to put them back in if you are replacing the buhings in the existing rods. There is a minute difference in the angle of the bolts between the left and right.8. I suggest cleaning everything well including bolts etc. If the bolts and nuts are rusted, I would suggest getting new ones from the dealer. The manual states to replace the bolts and nuts but I think this has to do with the sinch part of the nut and rusting. I talked to a few people and no one said it was really required. even in all the posts i saw.

Now is a good time to inspect areas and clean up areas you normally cannot reach, especially if the goo has leaked out of your old bushings

If you are replacing the tension rod bushings make sure the arrow on the new bushings are assmebled with the arrow facing the rod.

Reassemble

9. Slide the rod over the control arm and assemble the tension rod mount to the sub frame. The bolt goes thru from the inside of the car to the outside. Lightly assemble the nut enough to allow the bushing free movement but enough to keep the bolt in place.10. Put the bolt on the tension rod thru the control arm and tighten the bolts. Use the alternating method to avoid straining or bending the rod. Not that it will happen, I just always learned it is better to alternate in this situation.11. Torque the tension rod nuts on the control arm to 72-87 ft-lb of torque. Tighten 3/4 of the torque then torque to final tightness.12. assmeble the wheels , lightly tighten the lug nuts, lower the car to the ground, tighten lug nuts to 72-87 ft-lb of torque. do this using an alternating pattern. Helps prevent warpage of the rotors.13. Tighten the tension rod main bolt to 101-123 ft-lb of torque. Tighten 3/4 of the torque then torque to final. You will need to use a second rachet to keep the bolt from spinning. The ratchet end will hit the sub frame so you should not need to hold it in place. Just tap the second ratchet when done and it should come off. There really is not enough room to torque completely so what I did was to tighten to about 80 ft-lb then put the car up on ramps and finish the torquing. I did not jack the car up to prevent any slipping of position of the rod whith the suspension fully extended before I final tighten. The bushing is to be unstressed when the car is in it's normal ride height position.14. Good Idea to check the torque on the bolts before reassembling the cover15. Replace the cover.

Hope this helps someone out, really not that complicated to do.

[Jeff Williams]

Awesome directions. I always like personal instructions, rather than a book.

Now I know where all that icky gue is coming from. I thought I ran over a wax dummy, or something.

[carlos_knology]

Thanks for the instructions. Do you mind if I put these on my J30 DIY web-page?

Carlos

[juiceman]

be my guest

hope they help someone, that's what this site is all about

[carlos_knology]

Ok, it's been added...

http://www.fuzzycats.com/j30_diy.htm

Carlos