J30-t Intermittent Powerdoorlocks

[yaminator]

Hello guys, the power door locks for the passenger doors works intermittently. The driver side power doorlock works all the time. Normally, you unlock once for the drivers door, and one more time within four seconds to unlock the rest of the doors. Sometimes, the other doors will never unlock. Same goes with locking. Only the drivers door will lock. I can even lock the drivers door using the switch from the passenger side, but the other doors won't lock...

I'm suspecting that a relay is going bad, but don't see any from the service manual that came with the car. I only see the door lock timer. Is there a relay built into this? I haven't actually taken it out because its under the dashboard.

I have removed the door panels and tested the voltage at the power door lock for the passenger door. Funny thing is, when its not working, I can still measure some voltage when I hit the lock switch. I'm guessing the voltage is too low to activate the motor. Actually need a oscilloscope to measure the voltage as the meter reacts too slowly. Thanks for any help. Is it the door lock timer?

danny

[VimyJ]

Is it the door lock timer?

danny

Here are more notes I dug out from my own data base. Many thanks to the original author(s).

- The first symptom of the door latch failing is this: When you close the door but leave the car unlocked, you will return and the alarm goes off when you open the door. That happened on both of our Js. Basically the alarm sets by itself when you close the door. If your doors ever lock by themselves, replace your door lock timer! It's about $60 from TJ. The old one has a red sticker on it with numbers that end in 70. The new one has a blue sticker on it with numbers that end in 77. This only applies to J30s made before November 16, 1994. When you crawl up under the dash, you'll see this thing with a relay attached to it. You'll need a 10mm wrench and a screwdriver. It's a real pain finding the thing. Once you identify it, it takes 10 minutes to do. Both of our J30s had this problem (severely), and the new door lock timers solved it. Since the timer is under the dash, not the door, you don't need to do it when you have the door apart. The door latch is quite a troublemaker. It causes anything from setting off alarms to being unable to open the door! A new, updated latch is available from TJ for $23. This is truly a pain to install. Minimum 3 hours. The door lock actuator attaches to the door latch (you have to remove and reinstall it when you replace the latch). It's about $65 from TJ. Totally unneccessary to replace the actuator if the power lock works. A failed actuator would not prevent you from opening the door, only a failed latch would. The actuator is simply the solenoid that locks/unlocks the door with the power locks. If your power window is "binding" on it's way up or down (moving very slow), replace the window regulator (about $75 from TJ). If you don't, the gears on the motor will get stripped and a new motor is 3 times the cost of a regulator!

I was the one that posted that. When you order the door latch, order some new clips for the door panel in case you break any. Also, order a new door check (door stopper, whatever) if yours doesn't hold very well. May as well do it all at once while you have the door panel off. I've taken it off so many times it takes me less than 5 minutes now. The driver's door latch wears out long before the passenger's, so maybe you should do them both at once to prevent any problems.You mentioned that the dealer replaced the door lock timers. There is only one door lock timer, and it's under the dash. If it has a red sticker, it's the old kind. If it has a blue sticker, it's the new kind. I wouldn't trust the dealer with this stuff. A local dealer lied to me and told me that the timer and both actuators had to be replaced for $600 (parts and labor). Then I called TJ and he said just the timer at $60 (part). I have replaced it on both of our J30s.

[yaminator]

Thanks for your help. I've ordered a new door lock timer.

[alexhho]

Hi VimgJ. I just read your recommendation on fixing the "binding" window. My 97 J30 is experiencing the problem with its driver-side door. Can you tell me what tools do I need to replace the window regulator? Will I need to solder anything? Thanks for your help.

[carlos_knology]

Hi VimgJ. I just read your recommendation on fixing the "binding" window. My 97 J30 is experiencing the problem with its driver-side door. Can you tell me what tools do I need to replace the window regulator? Will I need to solder anything? Thanks for your help.

I've replaced both passenger-side window regulators and one window motor. If you don't replace the regulator when the window starts to bind, the teeth on the motor gears (made of plastic) will strip and you HAVE to replace the motor.

The window regulator runs about $75-80 and it's a DIY job. No soldering of any kind. Just remove the door panel. Roll or push the window about halfway down and remove the two bolts holding the glass to the window regulator. Since you're working on one of the front doors, you'll have to also remove the plastic speaker housing since I think one or two of the bolts holding the power window motor are behind that speaker housing.

In any case, the window regulator is a metal piece (a track that guides a piece attached to the bottom of the glass window). On top and bottom of that metal piece there are pulleys with a cable that runs over to the power window motor. The cable looks like the brake cable on a 10-speed bike. You cannot replace just the cable. The whole thing is one unit.

Since the regulator is attached to the power window motor, remove the four bolts holding the regulator to the door (two bolts on top, two on bottom), and I think there are two or three more bolts holding the power window motor in place. The regulator and power window motor will come out of the door as one unit. You just squeeze both of them out of that small hole in the door. Once you take a look in there, it will all make sense.

Once you have the window regulator and motor out of the door, remove the power window motor and attach it to the new regulator. From that point on, just install it the new unit.

Should you discover that the window motor has some stripped teeth. I found that my local Discount Auto Parts sells remanufactured Infiniti power window motors for $50 (as long as you give them your old one as core) with a lifetime guarantee. I've had one of those rebuilt motors for over a year and a half and it's worked fine. I think the factory motor is around $200 but don't quote me on that.

I think I covered everything...... let me know if you have any other questions. Email [email protected] if you have questions.

Carlos

[alexhho]

Thank you, Carlos. That was a great post as well. I hope it will help those with similar problems. This post should also be added to the FAQ. Take care.

[juiceman]

I read this post and ordered a new time from scottsdale and I just received a timer with a red sticker with the last two numbers of 70

Should I even bother putting it in? or just return and request the correct timer?

[juiceman]

seems like everyone is having trouble posting. I put the red label timer in and seems like it works fine. Is it just a vibration problem? will I get 2, 3 or even four years out of it?

[VimyJ]

The different label migh mean a redesigned part. The early Js had gremlins that were ironed out in later models.

[Mayhem_J30]

The different label migh mean a redesigned part. The early Js had gremlins that were ironed out in later models.

No kidding. I just reviewed my service history report from the dealer. At 44,000 miles the original owner had problems with the doors locking on their own. The dealer replaced the door actuators. Obviously that didn't fix the problem as it does it with me today. It happens rarely, but after reading all this I think I'm going to order the lock timer and also fix my rear passenger window that gets stuck going up and makes a god awful buzzing noise. Hopefully the regulator is all I need for that. Good right up VimyJ! Maybe I'll take some pics with the new digi camera to compliment your instructions. If anybody thinks the rear window will be sticking for any other reason, let me know asap.

Off topic, but on topic of J gremlins, here are some other problems that happened to my J before I had ownership. This explains why I don't experience the same symptoms as everyone else...because they already happened, and real early in it's life too.38,000 miles replaced ABS relays, because light came on.38,000 miles dealer replaced "mode door motor binding/motor" whatever that is.44,000 miles moonroof motor replaced44,000 miles driveshaft replaced44,000 miles cd player unit replaced59,000 miles replaced dash dimmer switch.a funny one was the customer reported loud and odd noise coming from engine. turned out a rock was stuck between the rotor and the backing plate. what's the chances?

[alexhho]

Mayhem. You should try spraying the weather stripings (the ones that encase the glass window as it goes up and down located on the outside edges of the glass piece) with silicone first. It worked for my windows.

[Mayhem_J30]

Mayhem. You should try spraying the weather stripings (the ones that encase the glass window as it goes up and down located on the outside edges of the glass piece) with silicone first. It worked for my windows.

Thanks alex, i'll give it a shot. Just can't imagine a window that gets used maybe 6 times a year has been messed up for so long. :rolleyes

[juiceman]

The replacement timer started doing the same thing the old one did. Talked to to at scottsdale and he sent me the replacement withthe blue label. Works great no problems now. No hassles from joe either. He put a note on the old part to use the newer version so this does'nt happen to anyone else