J30 strut removal tool and questions

[juiceman]

I am planning on replacing the front struts on my j in the next two months and wondered a few things

1. when replacing my tension rod bushings I noticed that with the rod removed I got some side to side play of approx 1/4 inch. I got no play with the rod in place. Is this normal or are the Control arm bushings worn?

2. The manual refers to a special tool to remove and torque the gland packing. ST3549000 (J26083). Can this tool be bought and or cdoes anyone know the size of the nut so that I can have something made? I just want to bea ble to get the torque correct per the chart in the book.

3. What has anyone had to replace when replacing the struts on the front of a J30? Insulators, gland packing etc.

Thanks

[Mayhem_J30]

When you mention gland packing are you talking about the strut inserts?The only other thing I replaced when doing the front struts and rear was the dust boots/bump stops. Oh yeah, I had to replace the orange rubber (maybe plastic) ring that monts between the top of the strut assembly and the body of the J30. I guess this is to prevent squeeking and noises during movement and flexing.

[juiceman]

the manual states the gland packing as the rubber on the nut that holds the cartridge in place.

Just trying to get a feel for what I might need because I will do over a weekend and cannot afford to have the car down during the week as I sold my other car to focus on this one.

How did you tighten the gland packing nut to spec? Did you make a tool or get one from the dealer?

[Mayhem_J30]

Honestly, I guessed on tightening that nut. I would think that rubber on the nut that holds the catridge in the assembly is only for keeping all the ORIGINAL hydraulic fluids in the assembly. But now the replacement is just an insert it is probably not needed. Hopefully someone else can confirm that, but I don't see the need for it. You can always grab some weights from the gym and make your own rigged up torque wrench to get that thing to spec.