j30 rough idle

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heyhi
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:09 pm

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about 6 mon ago i started my car and it stalled.i restarted it and the idle ran rough and i get no power driving it. now my cars been parked since becuase my lic got suspended so i havent drove it. but when i start it after it warms up it runs rough... i changed my plugs and nothing. no check engine lights no nothing. what should i check


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AZhitman
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Temp sensor.

Once that's changed, clean the throttle body and check voltage at Throttle Position Sensor.

But, I'm betting it's a bad temp sensor.

GerryO
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heyhi wrote:about 6 mon ago i started my car and it stalled.i restarted it and the idle ran rough and i get no power driving it. now my cars been parked since becuase my lic got suspended so i havent drove it. but when i start it after it warms up it runs rough... i changed my plugs and nothing. no check engine lights no nothing. what should i check
With the engine running, disconnect and reconnect coil pack wires one at time, noting when the idle speed decreases and increases.

If there is a cylinder where there's no affect on the idle speed, check the resistance between the two terminals of the injector.

If the injector resistance reading is OK, swap its' coil pack with another, and disconnect and reconnect coil pack wires again to see if the problem follows the coil pack.

Temperature sensor and TPS issues would affect idle speed most (too high) and transmission shift points/engine rpms.

Add about a half quart of good synthetic oil while you're at it, just to quiet any sticky things down, and then try pulling some codes to make sure that the CEL on your dash is working.

heyhi
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:09 pm

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What I forgot to mention is that the idle runs lower .its about 7-900and runs very rough. when i drove it there was no power and would stall when stopped at a stop light or stop sign. also i have a manual cd and i cant find temp sensor what else would it be called

heyhi
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:09 pm

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so i checked the codes today with self diag and i got 55 no stored code. my battery died a few months ago but since my car has ran and duplicated the rough idle a few times.now if this rough idle was caused by any sensor wouldn't it give a code? i was gonna check the mas airflow sensor but i was so beat after looking all in the wrong places for the ecu and trying to get it out that i didn't feel like it today. any one have any ideas I'm gonna check the map sensor and the coolant temp sensor . i ve had my car 3 years and it has a aftermarket filter i havent cleaned would that affect the map sensor. i got 2 or 3 weeks to fix this b4 it gets cold out and im not dropping 3 or 4 hundred bucks at a mechanic thanks in advance for any input. i also noticed with the hood open and the cars idling rough i can hear the intake suck air in

brandonjustice93J30
Posts: 388
Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 6:42 am
Car: 1993 Infiniti J30

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Might be your MAF if you've been using an aftermarket filter, such as a K&N. I've seen on here where people have used electrical contact cleaner from like Radio Shack to clean the MAF, and it's solved many issues.

Another thing to try might be the Redline S1 that's been a hot topic lately.

I'm going to search for a bottle myself for the van when I replace the plugs in it.

and I'm not sure if it would make a rough idle or not...someone else might be able to verify...the knock sensor might be causing an issue and it wont show an ECu code.

kbflip02
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actually the knock sensor will through and ecu code just not a check engine light

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yodawill2000
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Car: 94 Infiniti J30
Location: Grand Prairie TEXAS

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Not sure a bad KS would cause a stall though.

I would clean the MAF with zero residue contact cleaner first.Cheap and easy.

heyhi
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:09 pm

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im gonna try that. so just openit and clean the inside??

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yodawill2000
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When you loosen the large hose clamp and wiggle the hose off you should be able to tilt the Maf assy upwards.You will see a screen and behind that screen you will see the sensor. a thin wire with what looks like a resistor in the center.Thats what you need to spray with zero residue cleaner.Be sure and let it dry before putting back together, although that stuff evaporates pretty dang quick. A good time also to inspect the MAF connector harness. a bad connection there can dang sure cause a stall out.Would be beneficial to clean the connectors with the same contact cleaner and if you happen to have some dielectric grease use it.

heyhi
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:09 pm

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i have a aftermarket air filter and the maf sensor is connected to it when i tilt it back i see the bottom of the filter do i have to take any screws off the sensor i see there are 4 screws

heyhi
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:09 pm

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so i cleaned the maf sensor and replaced the coolant temp sensor.I took it for a test ride for the first time in 6 mon.Drove it around for 5 min and it stalled twice .Kept driving it for another 10 min around the streets and it was perfect.Then I took it on the highway for 20 min and around 40 mph it hesitated(kind of kicked or it felt like there was no gas and after a second was fine) that happened about 10 times at 40 and 60 mph. When I got off the highway to make a u turn got to a stop sign ,hit the gas pedal to go and it hesitated. got back on the highway and hesitated a few times at 60. When I got back home and put it in park the idle was jumping between 800 and like 200 and stalled.

The thing is before I cleaned the maf sensor and replaces the tcs, when id turn the car on it would jump idle all over the place and sometimes stall. id actually hear the intake trying to suck air. after i did that stuff I started the car and it was fine.Let it run ten min and it was fine.

My temp gauge hasent worked for a long time what could that be. do u think leaving it not working caused some problems. Im gonna change the thermostat. I already changed the plugs. what else can i check for to fix this. thank you guys

j30t_Dan
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Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:09 pm
Car: 2009 Nissan Sentra SE-R

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yodawill2000 wrote:When you loosen the large hose clamp and wiggle the hose off you should be able to tilt the Maf assy upwards.You will see a screen and behind that screen you will see the sensor. a thin wire with what looks like a resistor in the center.Thats what you need to spray with zero residue cleaner.Be sure and let it dry before putting back together, although that stuff evaporates pretty dang quick. A good time also to inspect the MAF connector harness. a bad connection there can dang sure cause a stall out.Would be beneficial to clean the connectors with the same contact cleaner and if you happen to have some dielectric grease use it.
Thanks man! Awesome description. I have been pretty much tickling the MAF. What is the best brand on Contact cleaner that I can get. It would be nice to get a good clean on before winter hits and cold air

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yodawill2000
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Any "ZERO RESIDUE" contact cleaner.



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