J30 - fix up or sale

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mateo
Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 8:15 pm

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I have a 93 J30 with high miles. It is still a solid car, minus new struts and a few other glitches. Do I invest the money into struts all around and hope that the transmission and engine continue to thrive? I just found out how expensive strut replacement is and I'm a little overwhelmed. I have a friend at work who had a J30 and her transmission went out. She sold the car shortly after having the transmission was rebuilt. She said that it never seemed to operate the same.

The other small issues I'm looking at are a fuel smell when I come to a stop light after medium to hard driving. (I recently replaced the fuel filter, but that didn't stop the smell). I was told that a fuel injector replacement might be in store. The valve cover gasket is sweating a bit too. Performing these "operations" involve many hours (= a lot of dough).

What would you do?


VimyJ
Posts: 1969
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:09 pm

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The transmission would be the main concern. Struts and gaskets, while expensive, are normal maintenance. How many actual miles?

Is your transmission acting up? Any maintenance performed on it such as pan drop and filter change?

The engine is practically bullet proof with proper oil change intervals.

mateo
Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 8:15 pm

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I now have 173,000 miles on my J30. I had the transmission fluid changed a few months ago. I believe the mechanic said a pan drop and filter change was overkill. I think he was worried that if the fluid was completely flushed, it might cause some slippage (???).

I don't hear or notice anything wrong with the transmission yet. I'm not sure what to look for. It seems that most of the posts on here mention that the transmission just suddenly went out without notice. Anything I should look for?

VimyJ
Posts: 1969
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 6:09 pm

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You must perform a pan drop and filter change especially if one has never been done before. The replacement filter is a revised design. The J30 is a heavy car and is hard on its transmission. This is the same transmission as on the 300Zna but the Z is 500 lbs lighter.

Actually, this is probably a great time to do the pan drop and filter change and go to Mobil One synthetic. You will have flushed some of the old crud away with the new dino fluid. The screen on your old filter is probably very blocked. This is what helps kill trannies.

mateo
Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 8:15 pm

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Is there any truth in the new fluid being to slippery for the gears that it actually causes it to slip?

mateo
Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 8:15 pm

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How much should this type of service cost me?

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elwesso
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You can do the pan/filter yourself...... Its not hard...... You just unbolt the pan and replace the filter..... Easy enough, right???

If you dotn want to DIY, then i would say about 80-100 would be reasonable (20 for parts and 60 for labor..)

New fluid and new filter/clean pan should acually make it shift STRONGER...... If it makes it worse, too bad, it was probably going to fail anyway in the near future.......

mateo
Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 8:15 pm

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VimyJ: Thanks for all of your input.

Can you explain what you mean by "shifting STRONGER"?

Right now, when I accelerate from a rolling start, the shift feels a little abrupt (jerky) when it shifts down to first gear.

....Also, what can I expect to pay for the Mobil 1 Synthetic fluid in opposed to regular lubricant? Is it really worth it? How often should I flush the system with regular fluid (driving medium-hard on a 173,000 mile car)?

Thanks,Mateo

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elwesso
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Shifting stronger- You will feel it shift more abruptly and quick........ IE when it slips it has a tendency to hesitate.....

Synthetic ATF is worth it....... You dont want it to start breaking down on you.......

Eswift
Posts: 1194
Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2002 4:48 pm
Car: should be obvious enough

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2nd on the syn.

2nd on the "if it slips, it was already heavily wounded" - a transmission's shifts shouldnt rely on the sediment in the lubricant. if your transmission isnt already hesitating, (and it sounds like its doing just fine) there is virtually no risk in the procedure.

actually if you want to go do the syn switch, i would recommend using the full fluid exchanger service available even at many quick lube places. (pan drop wont get all of the dino juice out)

Eswift
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Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2002 4:48 pm
Car: should be obvious enough

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if youve got the money, do the pan drop 2nd, that way will give you the cleanest filter and the most complete fluid exhange.

mateo
Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 8:15 pm

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So if I understand you correctly, I should:

1. Get a complete fluid exchange using synthetic.2. Do another complete fluid exchange (with synthetic), but this time have the pan dropped and the filter changed.

How long between these services should I wait. It doesn't seem like it would need to be very long - just long enough to let the transmission make a full cycle. And I suppose, if I want to protect my investment, I should do it shortly thereafter.

Is there any harm in doing the first flush with regular ATF?

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
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mateo wrote:Is there any harm in doing the first flush with regular ATF?
Not if it's the same brand. Additives from different brands may not mix.

I assume the second flush after the pan drop/ filter replacement will be with Mobil 1 or Nissanmatic.

Eswift
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mateo wrote:Is there any harm in doing the first flush with regular ATF?


no harm at all, just that the pan drop doesnt remove all the fluid, so therell be some non-syn in there. (which should still be okay).

"shortly thereafter" should work fine.


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