well well well..... I took a trip to the junk yard this weekend and found a old *** 200sx w/a ca20e in it... had a TPS that look liked the one i needed so i took it....got it for $2.50.
Came back to the house put it on..... it ran a little but still wasnt what it should be..... so i came back to the house did some adjustments....went over the IC piping another time and found a damn leak by the driverside fender area..... I've checked this time and time before but never felt anything come out....so i patched it up and took it out on the street again expecting everything to be the same and not go anywhere....boy was I surprised when 4k rpms hit...hehe I was sooooo happy it was working!! spent early evening driving highways and all trying to break her in....then got into it a little bit on the streets..... took down a stock mustang GT and a guy in a modified 302 mustang....ahhh the look on their faces.........
I still need minor adjustments though..... got some ?'s
1. Where should my crank angle sensor be positioned??.... right now i have it turned all the way clockwise b/c thats where it seems to work best at as well as it wont miss if its in that location....though when i got the motor and before i replaced my crank angle sensor it was positioned in the center.
2. I'm running a NPR FMIC and ran the car w/ the bumper off when i first got it working and it seemed to run alot better than it does now that the bumper is back on.... .should i cut out my bumper so that the other half of the IC is showing??
3. Theres a weird noise coming from my crank angle sensor...like a clicking noise....it appears then goes away.... .i heard it yesterday for like 5 min and then tightened the sensor and it hasnt come back .... baffles me.
finally..... I would like to thank everybody who helped me get this motor running..... Sean, Kevin,Dee & Darrell and countless others I've been reading up for the past year and a half or so on swaping a motor into my 240.... the only thing i'd changed on my other cars was the oil.... I have a great deal of confidence knowing that I was able to do this swap..... Lets just hope u guys are there again when i need help diagnosing problems later on.The CA is awesome! Definately glad I chose this as my motor choice! Thanks again guys!
Its running and running good!!
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USDM_OneVia
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Full clockwise.... as in there is more air in the slots to the left of the bolt or to the right of the bolt?
The way I read it, is that it is FULLY retarded. That was the only place that I could get it to read 15 degrees BTDC on mine. Then I looked at Jon's and his was completely the other way, almost full advanced. The way we figured is that my knock sensor is hooked up and it may be reading a bit of knock since all I can get here is 93 octane and the computer is retarding the hell out of the timing. And his knock sensor is not hooked up, hence he can advance it.
Right now I set it about right in the middle where it came from over in Japan. Seems to run ok, no detonation, but then again, I want it retarded since I am running without an intercooler right now and VERY low boost, like 3 pounds at max.
My intercooler is going to be ordered this week and I will reset the timing when it comes and put some octane booster through the system.
As for the clicking...... dunno. Mine clicked every now and then, and it was because I didn't have enough fluid in the power steering system and it was the PS pump making the noise, not the CAS.
HTH
BTW..... congrats!
Also..... what boost levels are you running and modifications? I was running the stock intercooler, 3 inch downpipe, and I was hitting fuel cut at 4500 rpms in 1st gear, right about 10-11 pounds and it would shut off.... odd.
Joe
The way I read it, is that it is FULLY retarded. That was the only place that I could get it to read 15 degrees BTDC on mine. Then I looked at Jon's and his was completely the other way, almost full advanced. The way we figured is that my knock sensor is hooked up and it may be reading a bit of knock since all I can get here is 93 octane and the computer is retarding the hell out of the timing. And his knock sensor is not hooked up, hence he can advance it.
Right now I set it about right in the middle where it came from over in Japan. Seems to run ok, no detonation, but then again, I want it retarded since I am running without an intercooler right now and VERY low boost, like 3 pounds at max.
My intercooler is going to be ordered this week and I will reset the timing when it comes and put some octane booster through the system.
As for the clicking...... dunno. Mine clicked every now and then, and it was because I didn't have enough fluid in the power steering system and it was the PS pump making the noise, not the CAS.
HTH
BTW..... congrats!
Also..... what boost levels are you running and modifications? I was running the stock intercooler, 3 inch downpipe, and I was hitting fuel cut at 4500 rpms in 1st gear, right about 10-11 pounds and it would shut off.... odd.
Joe
Well i have a NPR FMIC but only run stock boost...though i dont have a boost gauge so its prolly around 7 psi..... I dont believe my fuel has ever cut off so i dunno...... i talked w/ Paul (movingviolation) and he had said his CA had that noise and it was that the key in his camshaft at the end was tearing a hole or something and his camshaft came off.... to fix it he put a new cam on......
timing lights are 30$ at a parts place, they are priceless when it comes to having a good running motor, you guys and just sticking the CAS where ever are scaring the piss out of me! i did it for the initial start up i suggest you spend 30$ buy a gun and keep it with you in your tool box, which should also be in your car at all times till the car is running flawlessly!!!
tool box must haves!!
flat head screw drivercross point screw driver8,10,11,12,14,17mm socketscan of brake cleanertape, duct or electricaltimming gunextra clampsJBweld.spare couplersflashlightglovescoat hangers lolextra belts
i also carry a floor jackfull sized sparea blanket for crawling under the car in the rain to fix my busted azs exhaust.!!
overkill i know!!!
P.s the brake cleaner is to check for leaks in IC piping.. you spray it on good at all your joints or couplers and listen for the motor to change revs. it comes in handy! good to hear its running good!
tool box must haves!!
flat head screw drivercross point screw driver8,10,11,12,14,17mm socketscan of brake cleanertape, duct or electricaltimming gunextra clampsJBweld.spare couplersflashlightglovescoat hangers lolextra belts
i also carry a floor jackfull sized sparea blanket for crawling under the car in the rain to fix my busted azs exhaust.!!
overkill i know!!!
P.s the brake cleaner is to check for leaks in IC piping.. you spray it on good at all your joints or couplers and listen for the motor to change revs. it comes in handy! good to hear its running good!
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USDM_OneVia
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slw240sx wrote:
tool box must haves!!
flat head screw drivercross point screw driver8,10,11,12,14,17mm socketscan of brake cleanertape, duct or electricaltimming gunextra clampsJBweld.spare couplersflashlightglovescoat hangers lolextra belts
i also carry a floor jackfull sized sparea blanket for crawling under the car in the rain to fix my busted azs exhaust.!!
overkill i know!!!
P.s the brake cleaner is to check for leaks in IC piping.. you spray it on good at all your joints or couplers and listen for the motor to change revs. it comes in handy! good to hear its running good!
I can attest to that! The trunk and back seat looks like a Snap- On Van....
Joe
haha yea i know what you guys mean about the tools..... i keep my tools from work w/ me at all times (electrician) so they all come in handy when your IC piping coupling comes loose on the interstate and you have to go 35 miles an hour going 2500 rpms in 3rd gear...... also
is it normal to be at 4k rms going 70 in 5th???
is it normal to be at 4k rms going 70 in 5th???
Anyone know where I can get a intake cam at?? maybe a CA16 cam if that power gain is really true. yea, right on the money with that "sound" by the CAS.... my little key on the end of my cam shaft broke off. it still runs and all fine but i definately need to get it fixed. Let me know if you all know of anywhere
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USDM_OneVia
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My car didn't like the 15 degrees either Jon, I had to dial it back again to about 20-22ish when I went to pick up my paycheck. Plus there was a little bonus on the check too... 200 free dollars to play withslw240sx wrote:im running 16-17btdc on my car. i may go back to 15 an see if there is any differances in the EGTS or performance.
I guess we made our sales quota!!! Joe
USDM_OneVia wrote:My car didn't like the 15 degrees either Jon, I had to dial it back again to about 20-22ish when I went to pick up my paycheck. Plus there was a little bonus on the check too... 200 free dollars to play with
Joe
How the hell can you run 22btdc, my car would det its nuts off at that, and I run 98 ron fuel, mine runs fine on 14btdc.
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USDM_OneVia
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No detonation detected. Jon and I both checked out our timing today. And we even triple checked his.
We set it at 15... car was boggy, sluggish, didn't like it at all. Then set it to about 18, ran WAY better. Then finally I set mine to 20 because I run low boost without an intercooler. And we set Jon's at that because he is running like 11 pounds on his T28.
But I guess it doesn't like the timing that far advanced (15 degrees) on 93 octane gas.
It's a yank thing..... don't worry about it
Joe
We set it at 15... car was boggy, sluggish, didn't like it at all. Then set it to about 18, ran WAY better. Then finally I set mine to 20 because I run low boost without an intercooler. And we set Jon's at that because he is running like 11 pounds on his T28.
But I guess it doesn't like the timing that far advanced (15 degrees) on 93 octane gas.
It's a yank thing..... don't worry about it
Joe
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boost_boy
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22 degrees before TDC is not uncommon with these motors. I would definitely be wary of the cam timing setting and a faulty CAS. My CA16 used to do that and it felt fine for a while and then the bottom end started rattling. Check and double check CAM timing and if you need another CAS, I'll donate one to you that I know works just fine.
dee, we checked the cam splines on both motors, both looked alright from what we could tell.
my timing was jumping back and forth a bit after we put the CAS back in and ran the second check on it after i ran it around a min to warm it up to operatiing temps.
we set it to 17-20deg btdc and it held it steady, im goin to recheck tonight , i drove it home 45 mins and my EGTs stayed normal, only geting a slight bit higher then normal but it was also a hott day. my highest EGT reading was 14500 or so F on the highway at like 75mph in fifth gear goin up a slight hill.
i do hacve a sputter at crusing when my vacum and boost is around -3 to 0 again, but i think it may be due to a slight lean condition at that point, the car isnt spewing black smoke like it was before hooking up the DET sensor ,so maybe that made a differance.
hooking up the DET sensor seems to have an affect on timming, as i had the motor timed for 16-17btc and after hooking it up the timinng read around 25-30 btdc. donno seems to run great other then the sputtering at cruise
my timing was jumping back and forth a bit after we put the CAS back in and ran the second check on it after i ran it around a min to warm it up to operatiing temps.
we set it to 17-20deg btdc and it held it steady, im goin to recheck tonight , i drove it home 45 mins and my EGTs stayed normal, only geting a slight bit higher then normal but it was also a hott day. my highest EGT reading was 14500 or so F on the highway at like 75mph in fifth gear goin up a slight hill.
i do hacve a sputter at crusing when my vacum and boost is around -3 to 0 again, but i think it may be due to a slight lean condition at that point, the car isnt spewing black smoke like it was before hooking up the DET sensor ,so maybe that made a differance.
hooking up the DET sensor seems to have an affect on timming, as i had the motor timed for 16-17btc and after hooking it up the timinng read around 25-30 btdc. donno seems to run great other then the sputtering at cruise
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USDM_OneVia
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