Its complete, but... i've still got a few bugs.

[Kansei240sx]

The engine runs great boost still hits around 7-10 psi depending on the gear which i still cant figure out.

Im also having a **** of a time getting the cooling system from overheating constantly, i've bled and re-bled and blown hoses right and left and finnally reclamed ALL of them, and when i've been driving around for awhile, my heater hose on the top for my heater core gurgles and is piping hot.

Theres a few bugs i've got to figure out, other than compressor surge and a few other things, i've been driving it as slow as possible and just driving to get from a to b and it'll be OK, but as soon as i start boosting it, the cooling system just CANNOT handle it, i think i need to go back in and take out the thermostat and replace it but flush my entire system a few times before replacing the thermostat to get all the junk out, and then do it. Its all orangish brown and nasty. I probably should get rid of my stock radiator as well and get a koyo copper core.

Oil temp goes up to 165ish when sittting still and goes down to almost 140 degrees when moving, anyone find it odd that im having such HIGH coolant temps, yet having such low oil temps?

I have my fuel pressure set to 30 psi does that sound right as well? I went though my Adj FPR, and i cant freaking find what the fuel pressure was supposed to be in my FSM.

Any answers or tips would be great thanks.

[RB20DETodd]

looks good yeah the fmic is the problem get a copper core koyo and the biggest fans you can fit, and make ducting, can you see the ground when looking down at your motor between the fmic and your radiator? if so make ducting cause thats 70% of the problem, and id say run 100% water but its probobly cold as hell there.

[csudhoff]

Clean swap... i would deffinatly go with a larger KOYO or if need be call C&R and go custom. Dual fans should help out a lot be sure to look at CFM, especially if you can custom fab a shroud around them, i know space is limited but it should help.

As for the termostat, try checking out Billion as well as some different waterpump options such as electric pumps etc. You might want to go with an aftermarket BOV if you are having compressor surge.

[Eikon]

Beautiful engine swap!!!

That thing is very pretty. I love the color.

Did you put in a new water pump when you did the swap?

Mine was really strange... at install there was no sign of the pump being bad. No leakage at all....

Well after many overheating threats, I discovered that I just wasn't getting a strong enough flow of coolant. Turns out all the fins on the water pump had rusted away and been completely eaten away. They basically rusted down to an orange/brownish paste that flowed throughout the system.

A good way to test your water pump is with your heater. Turn it on full blast as hot as you can. As soon as your engine heats up the coolant will flow through the heater core. That will give you hot air in your cabin. If that hot air keep flowing hot for 5 minutes or 10 minutes or longer, that is a sign that your pump is working OK because it's still flowing hot coolant constantly into the core. IF that hot air is there when you turn the heater on, but then gets cooler, that's a sign that you are not getting good flow.

It's possible your water pump fins are either totally or partially rusted away.

just a thought.

[Vkoslak]

For rb20det I think it is supposed to be 36psi at idle. That is what I set mine to.

[Andrew85cm]

I was having the same cooling issues after I put my fmic in and I figured it might be my thermostat or water pump because they had never been replaced. I have since replaced them and the thermostat was fine and my water pump was also fine. It has been to cold at school to finish up what I started so I am unsure as to whether it still overheats but I believe it probably still will. I am going to try flushing my system a couple more times and I bought a cooling duct that mounts betweent he top radiator cross brace and the front bumper. I am also planning on fabbing up one for the bottom. Hopefully this will resolve the issues but I may end up having to get a new radiator. I say this to let you know that just because it's overheating its not always the thermostat or waterpump so don't jump on putting a ton of time and money until you are sure.

[RB20DETodd]

I was having the same cooling issues after I put my fmic in and I figured it might be my thermostat or water pump because they had never been replaced. I have since replaced them and the thermostat was fine and my water pump was also fine. It has been to cold at school to finish up what I started so I am unsure as to whether it still overheats but I believe it probably still will. I am going to try flushing my system a couple more times and I bought a cooling duct that mounts betweent he top radiator cross brace and the front bumper. I am also planning on fabbing up one for the bottom. Hopefully this will resolve the issues but I may end up having to get a new radiator. I say this to let you know that just because it's overheating its not always the thermostat or waterpump so don't jump on putting a ton of time and money until you are sure.

Yeah thermostats and waterpumps tend to get jealous once one puts in a fmic and they stop working, its crazy.

[Kansei240sx]

Pump works fine, and the heater always blows hot air for extended periods of times, i've just got bubbles, and im going to put in a swirl pot to get rid of them and buy a copper core rad from koyo.

[Shocker]

For rb20det I think it is supposed to be 36psi at idle. That is what I set mine to.

that is with vac on... and that number will change as your rpms change to accomidate more fuel for added rpms, you want to set that to 43 psi with the vac line off from the intake to the FPR. I set mine to almost 44 psi just to be safe.. rather have it a touch rich than lean.. as for the overheating problem, most likely bad ducting, and well the stock rad doesnt help either, even if you can use it.. its always a safe and easy fix for insurance purposes. good work thus far man.

[armysweitzer]

flush kit for the radaitor, sold at any parts stores works wonders. I love em

[Kansei240sx]

Im going to use a swirl pot to get the bubbles out and get a 3 inch copper koyo and do some ducting this weekend so ill see how it goes.

[Vkoslak]

that is with vac on... and that number will change as your rpms change to accomidate more fuel for added rpms, you want to set that to 43 psi with the vac line off from the intake to the FPR. I set mine to almost 44 psi just to be safe.. rather have it a touch rich than lean.. as for the overheating problem, most likely bad ducting, and well the stock rad doesnt help either, even if you can use it.. its always a safe and easy fix for insurance purposes. good work thus far man.

Thanks for the tip!

[Kansei240sx]

Clogged thermostat is the problem, i found that out today, so im going to run an open thermostat for a day or two to and cycle out the coolant 3-4 times and then pop a new thermostat in.

[BoostFab]

looks nice!interesting i painted mine that color too lol

[Charlie240sxt]

VARY nice jess you never called so i could get drirty so now i hate you but i want to see it before i leave town this week

[Sky240PWR]

whats better?..paint or powder coated, heres a pic that TRG Coating did

[Kansei240sx]

Now i have a few other problems now that i've been driving more, Since its snowing. I was going up a hill last night and my wheels got just a bit of wheel hop and i heard a loud knocking noise.... and going back up that same hill i heard it again. It sounded like a loud rod knock, it did it like 2-3 knocks both times, and that was IT, it hasnt done it since. ( One thing i'd like to add, is that my bell housing sits up against my firewall quite well and my starter is extremely close if not touching on the other side. ) My car drove fine, idled a little high like it always does, and decelled and accelled perfectly fine like it always does, So im thinking it was just the entire driveline shaking.

Another problem is... i can hear the TO bearing in the transmission, its pretty loud and i can hear it clack when i back out the clutch and then when i press it in, it doesnt make any noise at all. The TO bearing is brand new and i did install it right.

My transmission seems to be pretty loud as well. Its got a pretty good whine to it, and it makes alot of noise under 2000rpms when the engine is low and kinda bogs like most do. Sometimes my Reverse is really damn loud and then sometimes its quiet. When im normally driving its quiet and doenst grind at all though.

I used 75w-90 synthetic transmission fluid. The driveshaft i made, i think might possibly be too short. the yoke is about 6 inches long and about 3 or 4 inches goes in, do you think transmission fluid could leak out of there?

also something i forgot to mention, my oil pan sits either ON or rediculously close to my sway bar.

Modified by Kansei240sx at 1:05 PM 2/19/2006

Modified by Kansei240sx at 1:13 PM 2/19/2006
Modified by Kansei240sx at 2:15 PM 2/19/2006

[Shocker]

hmm, all i can say as for the transmission if the noise your hearing is the same i hear, when you leave it in neutral and take your foot off the clutch you can hear it spinning, i thought something was wrong with my transmission to.. till i sat in my KA and it does the same thing, so that doesnt seem to be a worry, and what mounts did you use? i have McKinney mounts and i have a good 3/4 of an inch distance or so from mine.

[Kansei240sx]

I used tophat mount on mine. I think alot of the noise i hear is from possibly noise and vibration going throughout my entire chasis so i just hear it and im paranoid.