IT'S BEEN A LONG TIME COMING, BUT IT WAS WORTH IT!!!!

[mikalkouki]

My S14 w/ RB20DET swap is finally complete and tuned (for the most part)! I've still got quite a few questions, so everyone please give me your opinions.

1. Tuning- I've got a z32 maf, 3" exhaust, and everything else is stock. I've got my safc tuned to where I get close to 14-14.5 afr's under cruising speeds and 11-12 afr's under wot. Is that pretty close to where I wanna be? I've got my boost controller settings on Lo @ 6psi, Hi @ 10.5psi, Lo Gain 15%, Hi Gain 40%, Start boost @ 4 (wastegate starts to open @ 6.25psi), Warn (cut off) @ 12.2psi, Limit (what boost is reduced to after warn is engaged) @ 97% (10.19psi). For some reason with these settings I still get overboost in 4th gear above 5k, which is only just over 12 pounds and then reduced to 10.19psi, but it's still anoying to see the display turn red and reduce boost. Any suggestions? Boost controller is the PIT controller u can find on ebay for under 200 bucks as I did

2. Timing- I've set the timing to 20*BTDC and 30*BTDC. I can't really notice much of a difference and have read that some timing strobes will read 10* off. How can I know if this is my case and ensure my timing is set to 20*BTDC? I have an auto ECU in a 5spd. 20* correct?

3. Upgrades- I'm ready to start my quest for more ponies! What can I do to get the most out of the stock injectors for now and push the envelope safely? I have a walbro 255 and fpr. I also have access to some VG30DETT goodies for free from a buddy of mine. 370cc injectors, radiator and ignitor chip. Are any of these possible or worth swapping in on the 'ol rb20? I also have a huge *** .60 a/r (cold) 1.15 a/r (hot) turbo w/ t4 flange and top mount manifold with t3 flange. Is it worth the trouble to bolt this beast on, or would I be better off to get a smaller bolt on turbo for the stock manifold? One last stupid question.... I've got an atmos. bov and my stock bypass is still on the intake, but the vac. line is removed. Could this possible hinder the performance somehow? If so what needs to be done?

Sorry if any of this has been answered before and I really appreciate anyones input!!!

[StricNyne]

grats on swap bro !!! as far as bov goes if you mean you removed that hose that lead back into the charge piping then possibly you could stall during shifting and all that yadda yadda

[mikalkouki]

grats on swap bro !!! as far as bov goes if you mean you removed that hose that lead back into the charge piping then possibly you could stall during shifting and all that yadda yadda

nah.... left that, just removed tha vac. line that hooks to the back of it.

[mikalkouki]

bump

[Cpt_Impossible]

As long as the vac line is blocked so you arent leaking (on the engine side) then the valve being there should not hinder anything. It would take about 17-20psi before it opens on its own from what my friend experinced with the 1g dsm bov (same one) in his GSX. So short answer is no, as long as that vac line is closed off or routed to the aftermarket bov it wont hurt anything.

My engine came with the stocker hooked up as well as an old school hks both on the coldpipe in different locations. I dont see any benefit but it does sound cool because they open at slightly different times and pressures and it sounds cool echoing down the street at night.

[Cpt_Impossible]

oh, iirc there is a small pinhole in the bhov seal to make it operate quicker, so that will leak, but shouldnt be noticeable on your idle. you could let the car idle and then plug both outlets with your hand to see if it changes.

[mikalkouki]

thanks... I'm bout to check for that pinhole right now. Anybody got any other input on tuning or upgrades listed above?