I finally got a good SR block to rebuild. I took it apart last week and have been cobbling other bits together to make a complete motor. It should hopefully be out of the machine shop next week. All I'm really having the shop do is check the clearances and the bores and hot tank it to clean it all up. It's going to a rebuild back to stock since my end goals aren't going to be too crazy.
Once I start getting everything pieced together, I'll do a good article for you all since I noticed a while back that there were some inquiries on some good How To's for a rebuild and I couldn't find any.
In the meantime here's a fun shot of the crank.
It's about damned time
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SpeedRacer1
- Posts: 3144
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Hijacker
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- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
- Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
It's your screen. The crank is in pristine shape.
Also, the pic makes the oil stainage look worse than it is. I could wipe it down to shiney aluminum without any cleaners inside the crankcase.
When I pulled everything out, the bearings were in excellent shape. Barely any wear on them.
The motor looked to be a fairly low mileage motor, but someone managed to blow the HG out of it and start melting the number 2 and 3 pistons. The bores were unscratched, and the deck was straight.
The head we have lined up wasn't from this motor, but it's in good shape. All of the exhaust valve guides were showing wear, so I picked up a set of brass guides, and we had to replace 4 intake valves because they were showing stem wear. The head will be getting tanked, a 3 angle valve job, and new freeze plugs.
Also, the pic makes the oil stainage look worse than it is. I could wipe it down to shiney aluminum without any cleaners inside the crankcase.
When I pulled everything out, the bearings were in excellent shape. Barely any wear on them.
The motor looked to be a fairly low mileage motor, but someone managed to blow the HG out of it and start melting the number 2 and 3 pistons. The bores were unscratched, and the deck was straight.
The head we have lined up wasn't from this motor, but it's in good shape. All of the exhaust valve guides were showing wear, so I picked up a set of brass guides, and we had to replace 4 intake valves because they were showing stem wear. The head will be getting tanked, a 3 angle valve job, and new freeze plugs.
Re: (tenkawa_akito)
nice, mine block is currently sitting in my build room, im just saving up some cash so i can take it to the machine shop. gl
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Hijacker
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'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Got the head back from the shop today. Looks good so far!
Unfortunately for the block, the number 2 and number 3 cylinders showed some minor damage and will require at least a .020" overbore. There was some pitting from coolant in the third bore, and the second had some scoring near the bottom. I hadn't noticed it before having it hot tanked. Just means forced upgrade
Unfortunately for the block, the number 2 and number 3 cylinders showed some minor damage and will require at least a .020" overbore. There was some pitting from coolant in the third bore, and the second had some scoring near the bottom. I hadn't noticed it before having it hot tanked. Just means forced upgrade
Re: (tenkawa_akito)
Speaking of doing overbores....Is a .020 overbore going to make that much of a difference? Could you point me in the direction to start researching doing an overbore for an SR? I am building my engine come early spring and I'm trying to do research now so I decide what I should do...
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BuLLeTdrift
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Hijacker
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- Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
.020" overbore isn't a whole lot. It adds .5mm to the overall diameter of the cylinder. I'll be using wiseco's 86.5mm pistons.
Also, with a .020" overbore, it's possible to retain the stock headgasket if I feel going in the direction is the way to go. But with the wisecos raising compression a good half a point or more, I'm considering going with a thicker metal head gasket to relower my comp.
Rosco, I suggest going to a good local machine shop and discuss with them the pros and cons of overboring. A good shop will have done so many motors that they should have most , if not all, the answers you need.
One thing I will note that I've heard, but never really seen as a fact is that you might see some structural integrity issues past a .020 overbore because the cylinder walls get too thin. But I've only seen that in sales pitches for cylinder sleeves.
Bullet, I'm still a ways off from the rebuild. I'm waiting on a hookup to order my pistons, and then the block can finally get to the machine shop to have everything checked, decked, and bored. I'm hoping within the month to have the block to the shop and back.
I'm also going through midway for my timing chain pieces. My last chain job on my current motor was done with aftermarket, and I payed about $125 for it 3 years ago. It's held up very well with no rattles, bad tensioner, or anything. The kit had everything. Gaskets, chain and guides, tensioner, and sprockets for cams and crank.
I'm going with midway this time around because I can pick up the guides, bolts, and chain for $150. I had picked up a tensioner a year ago thinking mine was bad, but it turned out it was good and I was just being paranoid.
I figure for a minor extra expense, OE will suit me better. But don't be afraid to use aftermarket parts. They're not bad.
Also, with a .020" overbore, it's possible to retain the stock headgasket if I feel going in the direction is the way to go. But with the wisecos raising compression a good half a point or more, I'm considering going with a thicker metal head gasket to relower my comp.
Rosco, I suggest going to a good local machine shop and discuss with them the pros and cons of overboring. A good shop will have done so many motors that they should have most , if not all, the answers you need.
One thing I will note that I've heard, but never really seen as a fact is that you might see some structural integrity issues past a .020 overbore because the cylinder walls get too thin. But I've only seen that in sales pitches for cylinder sleeves.
Bullet, I'm still a ways off from the rebuild. I'm waiting on a hookup to order my pistons, and then the block can finally get to the machine shop to have everything checked, decked, and bored. I'm hoping within the month to have the block to the shop and back.
I'm also going through midway for my timing chain pieces. My last chain job on my current motor was done with aftermarket, and I payed about $125 for it 3 years ago. It's held up very well with no rattles, bad tensioner, or anything. The kit had everything. Gaskets, chain and guides, tensioner, and sprockets for cams and crank.
I'm going with midway this time around because I can pick up the guides, bolts, and chain for $150. I had picked up a tensioner a year ago thinking mine was bad, but it turned out it was good and I was just being paranoid.
I figure for a minor extra expense, OE will suit me better. But don't be afraid to use aftermarket parts. They're not bad.
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duffman1278
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Re: (duffman1278)
Nice keep us updated with lots of pics.
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dunneright595
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- Car: nissan 240 sx
Re: It's about damned time (tenkawa_akito)
nice i just got my sr block back from the machine shop this morning and was gettin ready to put it back together and my buddy lost the main bolts so much for gettin the bottom end in im going to take my head to the shop and get it clean up good luck
Re: It's about damned time (dunneright595)
How much did the head work run you?