it runs.... but not very good

Post by **daniel577h** » Mon Mar 14, 2005 10:00 pm

I got my car running it was running pretty nice and i decided to drive it to exhaust shop, it drove fine first half of the way then the rest it started to die... i would give it gas and it would move. i turn it off and turned it back on and it was fine... then later on it wouldnt turn back on... help me guys damn CA giving me trouble already.

could it be the MAFS?

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:07 am

I doubt it is the MAF, as if it is bad, the car will still starts but won't rev.

Sounds like your got yourself a bad ignitor or bad coils, I leaning more into the ignitor, try to do diagnostics on the ecu and see what it gives you.

Good luck,PULSAR GTRRafi

Post by **daniel577h** » Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:18 pm

yes, i have check out the car and now i get abosoultly no spark, timing is right . coil packs are good ( 1.0 ohm) how do i check the ignitor, i have 2 and i put other one in and same thing didnt get any spark. could it be the CAS? please i need to get this thing runnign its my only car.. a
Modified by daniel577h at 12:25 AM 3/16/2005

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 1:59 am

it might be the CAS, but the CAS rearly goes bad, do diagnostics on your ecu, that is your best bet at this time, a loose ground can also cause this problem.

The diagnostics should be able to tell you if your CAS is good or bad.

RafiPULSAR GTR

Post by **daniel577h** » Wed Mar 16, 2005 4:45 pm

i tried to check the ECU codes but i couldnt, the lights on it just keep flickering on and off. and the EGI fuel relay keeps clicking, so i think the ecu isnt getting constant power. cuz the lights never stay continous. it used to stay on continous but now it doesnt, any ideas?

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 1:55 am

check for fuses, loose grounds, also, get the ecu pinout and check all the 12v source, make sure you check them right on the ecu plug to insure you have the proper voltage

PULSAR GTRRafi

Post by **daniel577h** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 9:10 am

checked m ostly all the grounds on the engine, wiring and nothing.

the ecu is getting 12v to these pins

16,18,58,45,49, pins59 and 109 dont have any thier black with white stripe. they dont get power until the relay clicks and mine just keeps cliking. you think i could have fried my ecu? or maybe it was just bad?

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 1:36 pm

If all the right pins on the ecu have 12Vs, then I will definitely look into replacing the ecu.How long did it run with this ecu? and if it did run for a bit, then there is somthing with the wiring that causes the ecu to fry, open up th ecu and see if you can smell any burnt components, check the solder side (the back side of the ecu) and check if any of the tracks are burn't or show a sign of heat.

If you get another ecu, before you plug it in, double check all the wiring that you modified to make sure every thing is ok, and then if every thing is ok, then you can plug the new ecu in.

The pins that should have 12Vs but don't due to the clicking of the relay, try a tester light on these pins to see if the 12Vs on these pins actually triggering with the relay clicking, thats if you see the tester light comes on and off.If it trigger with the relay, you can try and attach direct 12vs on them and see if you get any better outcome, but I have to worn you, to only make that step if you know for sure these pins should have 12Vs.

Good luck,PULSAR GTRRafi

Post by **biosehnsucht** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 2:49 pm

Relay clicking can often be a ground issue.. when I was testing the fuel pressure to set my nismo fpr I hadn't reconnected the ECU harness above the fuel rail yet and didn't think about the grounds. didn't fry it but the 'EFI' (ECU) relay was clicking like mad, so I pulled it (I was jumping the fuel pump relay w/ a wire anyways so didn't need the ECU To turn it on). That happened because the ECU grounds on the wiring harness that attatch to the intake manifold weren't attatched.

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 3:33 pm

I would have to agree with biosehnsucht about the ground issue, but also if the relay isn't getting the full 12Vs, lets say if the relay gets 9Vs, the relay will do this type of clicking as well, so check if you have full 12Vs at the relay as well as check the ground wire on the relay by using an OHM meter to confirm that the ground wire is hooked up right and tight, if it is not tight, you resistance reading from that ground wire on the relay to the ground of the car might be measuring a bit high which indicates a loose ground wire or a dirty ground wire where ever it is ground it to.

PULSAR GTRRafi

Post by **daniel577h** » Thu Mar 17, 2005 6:36 pm

the car ran for like 20 minutes maybe, and what grounds are ytou talking about? if you could make a list of the ones you know off the top of your head that would be great.

heres the grounds i know i have,

2 on the front side of the intake manifold from the harness.1 on the back of the intake manifold. ( big fat wire )the one from the coil packs to the fire wall.1 under the fuse box, 2 ground next to the headlights. 1 on the boost sensor thing that is grounded

thats all i can think of for now.

thanksmdanny

OH and i did relocate the bater just in carse that could mess anything up

Modified by daniel577h at 10:53 PM 3/17/2005
Modified by daniel577h at 12:18 AM 3/18/2005

Post by **biosehnsucht** » Fri Mar 18, 2005 6:35 am

It's possibly your battery relocation isn't grounding well at the battery end.. although you'd likely have alot more symptoms as well. check the resistance from your battery negative terminal to one of those ground points if you can.. (might have to tape a long peice of wire to one of the test leads)

Post by **daniel577h** » Sat Mar 19, 2005 7:27 pm

im getting new ecu on monday, ill post here what happens

Post by **daniel577h** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 10:51 am

ok i got new ecu and before i put it in i wanna check the voltage on the harness first, which pins are supposed to get 5 v please i need to know this

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 1:16 pm

YOu should be checking for 12V not 5Volts, there should be no 5 bolts comming out of the ECU.

Since your relocated the battery, you will see a drop in voltage due to the length fo the battery power cables, approx. 1volt drop.

Just out of curiousity, Does the engine cranks and turn over enough to start if there is a spark?

Good luck,

PULSAR GTRRafi

Post by **daniel577h** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 6:59 pm

yes it turns over very quickly and doesnt stop after a while it keeps goin till i pull back the key

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 8:40 pm

Thats good, that means the engine is getting enough power and the lenght of the cables aren't effecting it as well as you have a good ground in the back.

PULSAR GTRRafi

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 9:58 am

You do have a 5v output for the TPS. I wouldn't bother with the outputs from the ECU though. Check the sticky. I just posed a big Excel spreadsheet on there with the ECU pinouts, ect...

Post by **daniel577h** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 4:44 pm

ok, it turns over quickly alst starts bt doesnt, has spark, spark plugs covered in fuel so fuel to, but wont turn on, timing belt on correctly too

Post by **daniel577h** » Mon Mar 28, 2005 8:04 pm

anyone got any ideas? has spark, fuel ( checked fuel pressre with gauge) and compression, jst wont start arrrgh driving me nuts

Post by **Nunook** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:24 am

daniel577h wrote:ok, it turns over quickly alst starts bt doesnt, has spark, spark plugs covered in fuel so fuel to, but wont turn on, timing belt on correctly too

Correct me if im wrong, but "spark plugs covered in fuel" doesn't sound right. If ur getting good spark then i dont see how the plugs r getting flooded.

Post by **daniel577h** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 3:27 pm

it seemed good to me it shocked the crap outta me, bright as hell too, i think its getting to much fuel, how do you check if a injector is stuck open with a DVOM? or a multimeter

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:07 pm

You can't check if the injectors is stock open by using a DMM, the DMM will only tell you if the injectors is good by measuring the resistance of the coil inside the injector. Usually when the injector coil goes bad/open, the injector won't fire any more. You can try and measure, but it won't tell you if it is open or close.Take the injectors out and either send them for a reflow or soak them in brake fluid for couple of days, but first try and find out if one injectors if spitting out more gas than the rest

It seems like you have an injector/s stock open.Can you tell if one spark plug has more gas on it than the others?

PULSAR GTRRafi

Post by **daniel577h** » Tue Mar 29, 2005 7:55 pm

they all have about the same, no one plug is more soaked than the rest. i have no clue what is goin on, it should start and run but it doesnt.

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Wed Mar 30, 2005 1:47 am

Double check your timing belt to make sure it is set right, if the belt skipped few teeth, you will have fuel and spark but at the wrong timing.

PULSAR GTRRafi

Post by **daniel577h** » Wed Mar 30, 2005 7:53 am

i check it last nite, it was fine, it has the right # of cogs between each mark like it says in the FSM. keep the ideas coming, only think i can think of is the MAF being dirty from the drive to exhaust shop it was smoking pretty bad. it was way rich

Post by **pulsar gtr** » Wed Mar 30, 2005 9:02 am

If you suspect the MAF is the problem, just disconnect it, the car should start but won't rev.Did you try and do diagnostics using the new ecu,

Also, did you check the timing at all 3 sprockets, the cams and the crank?

PULSAR GTRRafi

Post by **daniel577h** » Wed Mar 30, 2005 9:19 am

no havnt tried to diagnostics on ecu, im gonna do that later tonite since the car is like 2 hours from where i live right now, and i did line up alll 3 sprokets, ill try the maf thing also. thanks

do CA18det MAF have 3 connectors or 4?
Modified by daniel577h at 11:41 AM 3/30/2005

it runs.... but not very good

it runs.... but not very good

Re: (daniel577h)

Re: (pulsar gtr)

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