Issues with clutches and flywheels

[zanilth]

Alright, I put a clutch in a few weeks ago, and machined my flywheel at the same time. After about 511 miles, it started to slip. Shortly thereafter, it left me stranded on the side of the road. This is what I found out, for those who might bump into the same problem as I did.

I machined my flywheel, which in a hydraulic clutch is a bad idea. There is no way to adjust it afterwards unless you can get a shim kit (which in my area, I can't get one.) Machine it and put it on like normal, and you will notice your pedal is much lower to the floor before it takes, no matter how much you bleed the lines. This means that your clutch is not fully disengaging, and therefore just rubbing up against the flywheel at all times in neutral. In case anyone doesn't know, that is a BAD IDEA!

I pulled my transmission back off, and there was the clutch pad....EVERYWHERE. It had disintegrated all in my transmission, behind my flywheel, and even in my starter. Anyway, it also cracked my flywheel, so shimming it now is not an option, even if I could find one. Gotta buy a new flywheel, and that sucks. I found one at a parts yard for $90 (can't afford a new one, from nissan $330, from advanced, an aluminum 11 lb for $385.)

Anyway, just be careful when you are doing your clutch, because I had never heard of a shim, and had lots of people telling me to just machine the flywheel instead of getting a new one. Then I did it, and 20 more told me you couldn't because of the adjusting issue. Makes sense now, the clutch moves further away from the throw out bearing, and it can't fully disengage. Oh well, lesson learnt.

[Diggity240sx]

Wow ok I just had my clutch done and it has about 2500 miles on it and it slips and smells like it is burning more and more. The mechanic said he machined the flywheel. I dont know if he shimmed it or not but this could be the same issue correct. I have been searching the forums for three days and this is the first problem I have seen someone having that relates to mine. I have bled the darn thing too many times especially since I had to replace all hydros myself. Let me know bro the help is needed for sure.

[Ligouri Rd]

First of all, what clutch did you use and did you give it any break in period, usually there is a couple hundred miles before you can beat on it?

You do know that the master cylinder/clutch pedal can be adjusted. The rod from the master cylinder can be threaded in/out from the clutch pedal assembly to raise or lower the engagement point from the floor. There is quite a lot if adjustment there. There is no such shim kit since adjustment is designed in.

I would imagine that you would have difficulty shifting if the clutch wasn't completely disengaging. When I first adjusted my pedal closer to the floor I overadjusted it and half the time it litterally would not go into first gear.

Also I think you have the wrong idea of what neutral is. Neutral is when the clutch is engaged but you are not in any gear, i.e. you can move the shifter from side to side. Do you sit at a stop light with the clutch pedal in until the light goes green? Regarless of the clutch, that ain't good for your throwout bearing. Also if it wasn't disengaging wouldn't you be rolling forward all the time in gear. Something ain't right here.

[zanilth]

Used an AC Delco clutch. 500 mile break in period, and I wasn't beating on it period. Yes, I know the clutch pedal can be adjusted, however there is only so much adjusting you can do. No matter how high or low the pedal takes, the slave cylinder can only extend so much. Machining the flywheel moves the surface back away from the throwout bearing. Further you move it back, further the slave cylinder has to push to get the car into neutral (and yes, I know what neutral is) Should the flywheel be too far back, and the slave cylinder can't push the clutch far enough away from the flywheel (it might be able to get in and out of gear, but can still be close enough to the flywheel to generate heat, and rub ever so slightly) then it would cause the problem I had. Also, it would explain why my flywheel cracked (because of the heat buildup since the clutch wouldn't come far enough back)

Now, I have been told about 20 different things, but this is the general consensus from the 3 transmission shops in the area. Various other people have told me different things, so I really have had a broad spectrum of opinions. Should anyone have any other rational explenations as to why my clutch literally disintegrated after 600 miles, and cracked my flywheel, I would be more than happy to listen.

(yes, they make a shim kit for the car, one place I found can order them...But, since I cracked my flywheel and had to get another, gonna wait to get it in case I don't need it.)

[figment521]

Another fix is to put a shim behind the pivot that the fork rides on. Usually you shim the pivot half of what you cut off the flywheel.

[shayrgob]

I got an aftermarket ebay flywheel for $100. Check it out.

[Ligouri Rd]

Wow, I am amazed that you cracked the steel flywheel. I'm stumped on that one.One thing that you did not comment on, was there any difficulty shifting since the clucth was not completely disengaging?

[zanilth]

Yep, heat cracks. Not big cracks, but enough to need a new flywheel.

No serious problems shifting, every once in a while (every two or three days) I would hear a small grind when I shift into first gear.