Post by
9sec240 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/9sec240-u32495.html
Wed Mar 21, 2007 5:09 pm
OK.. so here is the latest.....
After work today, I pulled the codes and the only code stored was 12 (MAF). While I was at the ECU, I found the brown plug from the ECU not plugged into the body harness and when I went to plug that in, I found the blue plug next to it also unplugged. I plugged both in and tried to start the car. It fired right up and idled but would not take any throttle. It would choke itself out. I couldnt even pull it into the shop under its own power.
Once in the shop, I decided to tighten the RFL BOV up so it wouldnt open so easy. I removed the spring and stretched it about 2" and replaced it. I then removed the MAF to see if it needed to be cleaned. It was spotless everywhere. I grabbed another known good SR MAF and gave plugged it in and it seemed to run better and would actually respond to throttle.
I decided to try swapping the plastic electrical box off the original MAF onto the known good MAF housing and it still ran great. I swapped the two MAFs and with the original MAF body with the known good MAF electrics ran like crap.
I decided to remove the filter adapter which seemed to be partially in the airflow stream to the small hole in the MAF and that did the trick. I put everything back to stock but without the filter adapter and it rand pretty well.
I set the timing once again, did another boost leak test (passed with flying colors) and took it for a spin around the lot. It kind of laid over under boost and just didnt feel right. I decided to remove the BKR7E plugs and put the original Denso Iridium plugs in. I also advanced the timing slightly.
This was the ticket. She finally pulled clean to redline (or what I think redline might be due to no tach) There is just a slight misfire just after it spools up and then its good from there.
Its time to change the oil, get a full tank of 93 in it, get a wideband O2 sensor in it and strap it to the dyno.
So, a couple of questions if you guys dont mind.
What oil filter does this take?
If I set the timing to 15 degrees with the TPS unplugged, how come it ran better with a bit more timing? Idle jumped up a bit when I unplugged the TPS to set the timing... Is that the issue? Anybody got a shot of where the CPS is clocked to?
How much boost is it supposed to run stock? Its making less than .5 bar. How much boost CAN I run? (Stock everything but front mount, DP and exhaust)