ADiamond75 wrote:Sorry for this repeat question ... but here goes..
If one wheel looses all traction the other will not have any force applied to it?
The reason I ask is because I was debating getting one but drive my car on the street. I have pretty stiff coilovers and every once in a while when I pull in a funky drivewayI will lift one wheel off the ground slightly (yeah, I know, helper srpings would fix this, thats latter on) so in these cases I would basically be screwed cause the car would just sit there?
Lifting a rear wheel going into a driveway? Eeeps. With a Torsen, worm gear/helical whatever you want to call it... yes, you would be stuck if you have one wheel in the air. Howstuffworks suggests applying the brakes to create some resistance for the one wheel that is up in the air. There was a Torsen Type IIR (race) that had a preloaded clutch pack to take care of this problem... but I've never seen one.
Somebody asked... not sure if they got an answer or not:
VLSDs use a set of plates with gear oil containing Silicone between them. As one wheel spins, it spins faster than the other one, creating heat and expanding the Silicone to lock the plates together, keeping power to both wheels. The dis advantage is that one wheel has to spin first.
Clutch types use springs to lock clutch plates together when one side is trying to spin faster than the other. So, the clutches just sit there doing nothing until then, at which point you need to have more power to overcome the clutch disc friction (Hence why they loosened them up on the aforementioned cars). They wear down and have to be replaces/fixed. They are also fairly noisy and have trouble dealing with situations at full steering lock.
Torsen (worm gear/helical) uses the binding gears (as stated above from Howstuffworks) to limit wheel spin by locking the axle that is spinning too fast to the diff., which in turn will spin the opposite wheel. It works on the principle that worm gears can drive normal cut gears, but not vice versa.
The diff drives a worm gear on each side, which drives a straight cut gear attached to the axle. When one side trys to spin too fast, the normal cut gear on the axle binds up to the worm gear and locks that side to the center part, locking it, and driving the worm gear on the opposite side, which drives the straight cut gear etc... Thus, with no traction at all going to a wheel in the air, the gears wont bind, and it will think the wheel in the air has more traction, and thus will give it more power.
Advantages: very durable and reliable, no clutches to wear out, quiet. Disadvantages: Completely non adjustable, the wheel in the air thing, and due to how the sensing works, hard to get used to driving (going from overpowered outer wheel to underpowered, coming from the traction shift due to the weight relocation during cornering)
More than you ever wanted to know about Diffs! :-p
So to answer the original poster... it all depends on your style of driving. The bogging you mentioned is probably more of a final drive ratio (which can be changed easily like people said)