Is my vaccum lines wired correctly?

[s13gebala]

my last diagram sucked, sop heres a new one so its easier to figure out



I have no boost solenoid and have a fmic.

Is this setup fine or should i buy a manual boost control
Modified by s13gebala at 5:59 PM 3/16/2009

[seanman]

it looks pretty good, one thing you could do tho is run the line thats going to your wastegate from the hot side of the intercooler IE on the hot pipe somewhere before the intercooler itself. that way your wastegate will see boost quicker. try n just take a picture next time, good job using paint for sure haha *thumbs up*

[Justin35ll]

I don't know about you guys, but on my throttle body it has 3 nipples like most everyones does, but I capped off the lower one. Not the top right. The top right is my main vacuum source for my wastegate and bov. The top left is the FPR and boost gauge. The lower nipple on mine goes into the throttle body BEFORE the throttle plate so it has no vacuum I think it is used to recirculate the fuel for the evap system

[s13gebala]

wait justin, so the top right nipple goes to a T fitting, and from the t fitting one goes to the bov and the other to wastegate?

I dont know if my setup is correct all the way, ill fill my radiator up with water tmr and see how it runs

The only confusing thing about this whole thing is i dont have a nipple on my hotpipe that i guess i have to have,and i dont have a boost solenoid (or controller)

[positron1]

Any progress man?

[s13gebala]

if the vaccum lines are correct then all i have to do is startt tucking in the the engine bay.

almost done though, i need to sell my car right now so i could buy some things like an exhaust, and kouki bumper.

[Justin35ll]

Yeah, my top left goes to a T for the FPR and the boost gauge.Top right goes to a T for the BOV and wastegate because I also don't have a seperate nipple on the hoptpipe for the wastegate

I also don't get why you're running a T to the intake? Off the lower one which isn't even a vacuum source (on mine at least). Well if you leave it like that you will sure find out quick when you boost 20+ psi lol

[s13gebala]

lol i knew something was wrong.

should i just delete it?

[Justin35ll]

I would assume so because having that hooked up to your intake is just going to cause a vacuum leak and to overboost.How did you even connect the vacuum line to the intake? lol

Here is my lower you can see it's on the throttle body and not the intake manifold so no vacuum there.Here is top left going to FPR and boost gauge and the top right going over to another TAnd heres the T with the bov and wastegate

[s13gebala]

hmm, overboost

Ill fix this little problem tmr, maybe ill even run my setup like yours which i think i will since i do need a boost gauge.

I was playing around with the sr today but idle is lame because i still did not cap off the recirculation hole in the intake.. so my rpm's were going from 850-1.1k in a up and down order slowly.

And i was reading the factory vacuum diagram and i guess i need a manual boost controller to use that intake nipple.

I think i will run one line from the intake nipple to the bov and wastegate though, it will be cleaner and might work better. We will c :]

[Justin35ll]

What do you mean by intake? The intercooler pipes or the actual air intake? Because if you mean the air intake it certainly will not work better. There is no vacuum there. Vacuum is made by the downward movement of the pistons when the throttle plate is closed. So the only place vacuum exists is within the intake manifold.Intercooler pipes only see boost pressure which is why the intercooler pipe is better for the wastegate And the air intake only sees air being sucked in by the turbo

[s13gebala]

so thats what vacuum is.. thanks.

but i dont get the whole boost gauge set up, how can it read how much psi the turbo is boosting if its connected into the throttle manifold?

Isnt it supposed to go on the hotpipe so it reads the boost pressure?

how does a wastegate work

[Justin35ll]

Stoichometric air/fuel ratio is 14.7 to 1. When you are at WOT on an N/A car (non forced induction) you are building 14.7psi in the intake manifold.

Now adding a turbo onto the car you are building even more psi in the manifold. So 10 psi of boost would actually mean 24.7psi of pressure in the intake manidfold.

If you connected a boost gauge to the intercooler pipes you would only get boost reading, but no vacuum because the vacuum stops at the throttle plate on the intake manifold and the excess pressure in the IC pipes in left through the bypass valve (bov) when you let off the throttle causing the car to create vacuum.

Soo a wastegate works by when it sees a certain psi of boost the pressure is able to overcome the spring inside the wastegate and open the gate allowing the excess pressure to leave so it doesn't over boost

Hope that helps

[s13gebala]

edit- just read the thread again and noticed the lower nipple is not a vaccum

ok, so i go outside, switch my hose(bov and wastegate) to the top right nipple, and well the bov works.. lol

problem though.. :[

whenever i rev it around past 2-3k and drop the pedal, the engine goes way down in the rpm's (like200-450) and sometimes dies out

i tested it and rev'd it to 6k and after i released the pedal the engine dropped rpm's lower than 750 and died

what could be causing this problem
Modified by s13gebala at 1:59 PM 3/18/2009

[Justin35ll]

recirculate your BOV to the big hole in your intake, I just did this on mine and it drops down to perfect idle

[s13gebala]

:\ im not a huge fan of this recirculation thing

ill have to buy that 15$ fitting.. >.>

Could i just cap the intake recirculation hole off?

[Justin35ll]

Yes, but your idle will still want to die when it comes down from a rev

[s13gebala]

why does that happen, is there any different solutions to fix this?

[Justin35ll]

does it because you're not supplying enough air back into the system