Funny you mention the hard idle contacts. The engine will idle nice and smooth at 650rpm for a bit and then I can faintly hear a ringing sound which raises the idle +100rpm and then it kinda does this on and off for a bit. Is this caused by the TPS setting?
ALso, after reving the engine up to say 3000rpm and releasing the throttle, the engine sputters down to about 4-500rpm and sounds like it's gonna stall but then i guess the IACV catches it and pumps the idle back up to 850.
The PLMS Consult http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.htm product allows you to monitor the readings of sensors real-time, plus a lot of datalogging and also allows the user to perform a power balance test, among other things on a laptop.
Is my BPT faulty?
The TPS would have a much more significant effect on the idle, it would jump to around 1500 rpm then fall back down to idle back and forth if it was sitting on the contacts.
This idle dip I have heard from many members and have heard several different solutions to it. I am not 100% sure what causes it but I am pretty sure the IACV is at least part of the problem.
Thanks for the link on the consult thing, sounds like it has limited functions as compared to the consultI and II I have at work. But if it works for your car its not a bad thing to have.
This idle dip I have heard from many members and have heard several different solutions to it. I am not 100% sure what causes it but I am pretty sure the IACV is at least part of the problem.
Thanks for the link on the consult thing, sounds like it has limited functions as compared to the consultI and II I have at work. But if it works for your car its not a bad thing to have.
Well it took about 3 times to get the idle right by adjusting it per FSM procedures. Its pretty smooth now, but the hesitation still persists. It only seems to happen when the engine is cold now. I'm going to get a timing light and flash it on the crank pulley to see if it's either a ignition misfire or a lean misfire. I think if the gun doesn't register while the misfire occurs, it is an ignition problem and if the gun does fire, then I have a fuel related problem. Do you concur, doctor?
Also, how effective is the fuel rail flush as compared to having the injectors ultra-sonically cleaned?
Modified by NateDogg at 5:02 PM 5/9/2005
Also, how effective is the fuel rail flush as compared to having the injectors ultra-sonically cleaned?
Modified by NateDogg at 5:02 PM 5/9/2005
aahaha..I was talking about the Nissan dealership 'Fuel Injection Service' they have for $110. I think the fuel rail is pressurized and flushed. Is that worth the money or should I just throw the 3M or Techron stuff in the tank?
The O2 sensor is now reading .09V at idle. The spark plugs are uncomfortably white and I think the issue is a lean misfire. The ignition doesn't skip a beat when I had the timing gun on it and got it to hesitate - didn't even pull timing. I squeezed the blow-by hose to check for vacuum leaks but the idle speed didn't change, that's why I think it's a fuel issue.
Good spark, good timing, lots of air and low O2 reading and really white plugs.
BTW I'm sorry about earlier I didn't have a good connection to the MAF wire, it has been consistent since by sticking the probe into the connector. WHen the engine hesitates, the MAF voltage remains consistent with RPM and TP values, so I feel that isn't the problem. Doesn't do anything wacky and is well within spec.
BTW all the injectors are 11 ohms. I feel like the engine accelerates in 'steps'.
The O2 sensor is now reading .09V at idle. The spark plugs are uncomfortably white and I think the issue is a lean misfire. The ignition doesn't skip a beat when I had the timing gun on it and got it to hesitate - didn't even pull timing. I squeezed the blow-by hose to check for vacuum leaks but the idle speed didn't change, that's why I think it's a fuel issue.
Good spark, good timing, lots of air and low O2 reading and really white plugs.
BTW I'm sorry about earlier I didn't have a good connection to the MAF wire, it has been consistent since by sticking the probe into the connector. WHen the engine hesitates, the MAF voltage remains consistent with RPM and TP values, so I feel that isn't the problem. Doesn't do anything wacky and is well within spec.
BTW all the injectors are 11 ohms. I feel like the engine accelerates in 'steps'.
The 3M stuff is fed through the injectors via pressurization. Nissan should have this on hand as it was a TSB for the late 90's frontier. But the dealer also has some aftermarket stuff too. If they have BG and they are running it through the fuel line it is well worth it. If they are feeding it in via vaccum or injection nozzle it will do nothing for the injectors. Dealers do both so you will need to ask them specifically to feed it through the fuel line. I would recommend you ask to speak to the tech doing it to be sure the information gets relayed to him. If they use a product called MOC tell them to stick that up their....... Nevermind. Obviously I think the moc product is a waste. If they dont have BG ask them to use the 3M stuff, they should still have some around, If they seem they are in the dark about it tell them its the stuff used with the yellow tackle box looking case full of fuel addpters and regulator from the TSB for the frontiers injector cleaning.
Re: (NISTECH)
Cool. I was probing the ECU on the TPS connector wires and found that the black wire coming off the black ground wire measured .23V while the black and white wires measured .45V with the key 'ON'.
Here is a picture of what I mean. Pin 21->29 = .23VPin 20-21= .45V throttle closed -> 4.19V throttle open
Is the pin 21-29 supposed to have less than .2V or is that OK?
Here is a picture of what I mean. Pin 21->29 = .23VPin 20-21= .45V throttle closed -> 4.19V throttle open
Is the pin 21-29 supposed to have less than .2V or is that OK?
thats a little high, On this case I would NOT suggest running an alternate ground for that wire but check all the ECM grounds and find which is high like that. Then locate and check its ground point, clean it and rescure it. you'll find all the powers and grounds for the ECM in the begining of the EC section of your manual.
I think it may be high voltage because when I was just learning about cars I was poking the wire instead of into the terminal of the connector and the black wire coming off of the top of the TPS is frayed in half from poking it haha *oops*.
Although, the voltage to the ECU is the same as the voltage at the sensor, so I don't know how this other black wire in terminal 29 will affect anything? I don't even know where to look for it. I guess 21 is a power wire and 29 is a ground for it?
BTW there aren't any power and ground wires in the beginning of the EC section. I think they are at the back of the EL section in this edition.
Modified by NateDogg at 11:11 AM 5/13/2005
Although, the voltage to the ECU is the same as the voltage at the sensor, so I don't know how this other black wire in terminal 29 will affect anything? I don't even know where to look for it. I guess 21 is a power wire and 29 is a ground for it?
BTW there aren't any power and ground wires in the beginning of the EC section. I think they are at the back of the EL section in this edition.
Modified by NateDogg at 11:11 AM 5/13/2005
On page EF&EC 9 [or right around it] you will find a schematic of the entire ECCS control unit wiring. turn the book side ways so all the righting is right side up. At the bottm of the page you will see the grounds trace those back to their terminals on the ECM. test for ground at those pins with the key on and car running if possible. in the EL section you can find the location of the grounds on or around EL119, it is the EFI harness layout.