Is it worth it to build my block?? Need opinions

[Justin35ll]

Okay I spun a bearing and got a small rod knock.

Now I have 2000$I can either replace the crank and bore the cylinders and build it with upgraded rods, pistons, bearings,headgasket, etc..And be left with no money and run stock turbo until I save to upgrade

OR I can purchase a new sr20det and part out my old sr and possibly upgrade turbo sooner on the stock internals.

I want to run a topmount t3 57trim turbo on around 15 - 18psiMake at least 350whp. Would the stock sr internals hold up to this? Or should I go with my original plan to build it and then make higher number later on.

I just need a running car for next season

/pointless thread

[shift_SRDETuser]

It is all tuning but all you guys spinning bearings really have me worried? Did you not have the engine set up correctly to begin with or is something else going on? I would build the bottom end right from the ground up and then do what I could when I could.....

[Thrasher068]

rebuild it! I rebuilt mine because it was used when i got it and had no idea if it was good or bad... A turbo and exaust is easyer to take out then a whole engine. If u get a new one then u will not know what condition it was in when they pulled it + stronger pistons and rods and new valve train = MORE POWER!!! so then the turbo u want may seem small to the one u really want

CP pistons, Eagle rods, ARP studs ( head, main and, rod ) new valves, springs, retainers, and headgasket will run u about 1900. I wouldnt worry about camshafts or cam gears because u can change them out in little over an hour.

Also why did u spin a bearing? no oil.. lack of oil? squirter cloged?
Modified by Thrasher068 at 8:51 AM 12/1/2009

[rc1honda]

Yeah but you have to facotr in machining to. He spun a bearibng and will have to get the block hot tanked, bored, decked and honed.

I like the rebuild option better becuase it will be ready fro more boost when you can afford a bigger tubo. Also you can get s15 gt28rs turbos for like 600 bucks nowadays. Those can run 18psi pretty reliably.

On the other hand a new/used stock SR is cool to. The bottom end will handle 350hp np problem as long as you have the tune. Steve Shadows put down 500hp on a stock bottom ended SR and never had it blow.

I would do the rebuild becuase it open up more possibility in the future. But if you going to just buy another SR and throw a tubo on and tune, then i would try out a twinscroll setup. Much better boost response and good power with a 3071 or 3076.

[Justin35ll]

Yeah, well i'm goin to be calling a local machine shop about prices today or tomorrow.

I spun the bearing because I wacked the pan and choked it from gettin oil.

I think I'm just going to rebuild because I want to run at least a 3076 on about 20psi. Hopefully make high 300's - 400hp. And it will be more reliable in the long run

[rc1honda]

Yeah, well i'm goin to be calling a local machine shop about prices today or tomorrow.

I spun the bearing because I wacked the pan and choked it from gettin oil.

I think I'm just going to rebuild because I want to run at least a 3076 on about 20psi. Hopefully make high 300's - 400hp. And it will be more reliable in the long run

I think thats a good call. And i also think that a 3076 at 20 psi will be hittin well over 400rwhp. Like i said look at the the twinscroll setup to. The motor is already gooing to be gone for thwe winter so save up and buy a used or new twinscroll setup. All the spool of t28 with the top end power of t3. I really wanna gp twinscroll but i satifed with my setup as is. And can't justify the 2,000 it costs to change the whole hotside.

[Justin35ll]

Yeah I'll have to look into it. I'll probably end up just squeezing by with the whole rebuild + machine work. Then gotta run the stock t25 til I can afford the turbo setup

[homeslicej2]

When you do the rebuild, go with Mazworx's Head and Main studs. They have them made to fit the SR20det so the seat all the way in the block (for the head) and so you don't have to clearance the upper oil pan (for the mains) like you do with ARP's off the shelf sets. Made of the same ARP material, just that they fit right.

[Justin35ll]

Hmm hope I don't run into that problem. I already have a set of arp head and main studs I was going to use.

Just got off the phone with the machine shop said it was going to be about 400 - 500 for the hot tank, bore, freeze plugs, some other minor prep work.

Any info about this arp main stud issue?

[homeslicej2]

I just remember that users of the main studs have to dremel the upper oil pan a bit to clear the ARP main studs on the DET. No big deal, but extra work nonetheless. As for the ARP head studs, my understanding is that they do not seat all the way into the SR block and under higher boost pressures/hp, they can cause damage by "pulling" on the threads, stripping them out and/or distorting the area of the block around the stud, thus damaging it. Here's a link to Mazworx's site for the head studs. The photo section shows the extra length on them vs. the standard ARP ones.http://www.mazworx.com/index.p...=3063

And here's a NICO thread from February 2008 discussing ARP Head Studs for the SR20DET:zerothread/313498
Modified by homeslicej2 at 12:50 PM 12/3/2009

[240life]

I installed my ARP studs torqued them 2x then ground down the 2 sets of rear studs .25 inch. Pretty easy. I also recall hearing that they up-dated the mains so that procedure is not necessary, but im not 100% positive on that. If your upper oil pan doesn't seat in the rear then you need to modify the studs.

[shift_SRDETuser]

Yea the arp head studs state to torque them to 100+ ft lbs which is not correct they tend to break apart under high boost the best way is to torque them systematically to 40 lbs then 60 lbs then around 75 or 78 lbs that works best for them.. I have been running arp head studs and an apexi head gasket to 18 lbs of boost with no problems.....

[240life]

Yea the arp head studs state to torque them to 100+ ft lbs which is not correct they tend to break apart under high boost the best way is to torque them systematically to 40 lbs then 60 lbs then around 75 or 78 lbs that works best for them.. I have been running arp head studs and an apexi head gasket to 18 lbs of boost with no problems.....

That sequence is the actual recommended way of installing these studs by the DRIFTING.com crew on there sr20 build cd (They actually forwarn of the potential damage caused by using ARP's torque specs). Its also the sequence I used. I currently have been pushing 21psi on a regular basis with no issues for about 1 year now.