Is a redtop sr supposed to have the thin style o2 sensor???? Mine doesn't??

[redsx13]

While trying to figure out why my sr doen't run correctly(seems to be running rich, and has an erratic idle ) I disconnected the o2 along with a few other components. Anyway, disconecting the o2 did nothing. It diddnt even throw a code. while in the process, i noticed that my redtop sr has the large style o2 with white and black wires, not the smaller o2 with red white and black wires. do they have the same connectors? could this be a problem?

[wzntha]

my blacktop has a thin o2 sensor, so maybe we should trade??? hahah,jk. i've asked if having a different o2 sensor would require different wiring, but i didn't get a straight answer from anyone.

[redsx13]

my blacktop has a thin o2 sensor, so maybe we should trade??? hahah,jk. i've asked if having a different o2 sensor would require different wiring, but i didn't get a straight answer from anyone.

so we are kinda in the same boat, only yours probably runs and mine doesnt. but thats really weird Is yours stock? of not, whats parts are on it?

so we both still need a straight answer, anyone??

[exhsturbine]

im not really sure. but i think that the skinny is for redtops, and the fat is for the blacktops. i know that this info doesnt really answer your question as to whether or not mixing and matching works. but i dont think it would cause a problem. perhaps your problem of running rich and idle is caused by a boostleak? is your tps set correctly? are you experiencing any other issues?sorry for answering your question with... a question.

[redsx13]

im not really sure. but i think that the skinny is for redtops, and the fat is for the blacktops. i know that this info doesnt really answer your question as to whether or not mixing and matching works. but i dont think it would cause a problem. perhaps your problem of running rich and idle is caused by a boostleak? is your tps set correctly? are you experiencing any other issues?sorry for answering your question with... a question.

its ok, to answer your first question, i would like to set my tps, but it is from an automatic, and i dont know how to set it. as for other issues, after you rev the motor the idle will drop really low (about 200-300rpms) and then jump back up to normal idle. also if you monitor the exhaust air at the tail pipe, to motor seems to mis, and stuter, kinda like it has cams.

[redsx13]

Just to let everyone know, the ecu is a #63.

I actually might have figured out why my motor has a "fat" o2 sensor. When i got the clip, it had an aftermarket turbo elbow. The previous owner swapped the redtop o2 sensor for the fat blacktop one in order to fit the bung in the aftermarket elbow.

so my big question now is, can you just change the thin o2 out for a thick one and still have the motor run properly.

This was the only imput i was able to find on the issue.....

With the O2 sensor, I'm not sure how compatible the fatty sensor is with a redtop motor/ECU. It'll still run but probably won't run as well as it should (I'm running a fatty O2 on a redtop ECU and I'm getting some backfiring and bogging, although that could be due to other issues I'm having at the moment).

zer...age=3

does that not sound just like what i described!!!
Modified by redsx13 at 1:58 AM 9/29/2008

[Hijacker]

I run single wire fat O2 sensors for KAs on SR ECUs all the time, redtop and blacktop. Unless the O2 sensor is bad, I don't think it's causing your problem.

[exhsturbine]

also if you monitor the exhaust air at the tail pipe, to motor seems to mis, and stuter, kinda like it has cams.

is this all the time? or just when you rev the engine?

also... recirc bov?

[Tulsa_S-13]

As long as you're using the correct elbow, it won't be a problem. Both styles use a heated o2 sensor and work off the same voltage differences and have the same electrode.

I'm assuming Nissan switched to the 'fat' style for cost and manufacturing purposes.

[PhopsonNY]

Not strictly true...

Check out this link

zerothread?id=128543

As long as you're using the correct elbow, it won't be a problem. Both styles use a heated o2 sensor and work off the same voltage differences and have the same electrode.

I'm assuming Nissan switched to the 'fat' style for cost and manufacturing purposes.

[redsx13]

is this all the time? or just when you rev the engine?

also... recirc bov?

all the time, and very noticeable at idle.

i dont have a recirc bov. i have a greedy rs type open atmosphere, but its tightened all the way down, so it doesnt really blow off at all. (before you yell at me for this, i must inform you, that the shop i brought it to made this adjustment) but it diddnt do anything, the motor runs the same either way.
Modified by redsx13 at 12:29 AM 9/30/2008

[exhsturbine]

how is the mechanical timing? you say it sounds as if it has cams in it... i had set mechanical timing wrong once... not too far off. and it sounded as if there was a large duration and lift set inside.

[wzntha]

so we are kinda in the same boat, only yours probably runs and mine doesnt. but thats really weird Is yours stock? of not, whats parts are on it?

so we both still need a straight answer, anyone??

it's stock, so everything came that way. my car runs a bit sluggish, idle also drops to like 400 rpm, and i can hear it misfiring when i'm standing near my exhaust, but i think that's because the connector on the cas is partially broken, lol. i don't think the o2 sensor can cause major problems though. if you haven't yet, you should probably check all the electrical connectors.

[redsx13]

it's stock, so everything came that way. my car runs a bit sluggish, idle also drops to like 400 rpm, and i can hear it misfiring when i'm standing near my exhaust, but i think that's because the connector on the cas is partially broken, lol. i don't think the o2 sensor can cause major problems though. if you haven't yet, you should probably check all the electrical connectors.

1.does idle drop down for a moment after you rev it, and then come back up?

2. do you have a mis, or uneven exhaust flow?

the way to check #2 is, at normal idle (dont rev your car or anything), hold a piece of paper flat up against your exhaust tip, does the air comming out of the exhaust push the paper away stedaly, or does the air cut out and flow unevenly?

Modified by redsx13 at 12:50 AM 9/30/2008
Modified by redsx13 at 12:51 AM 9/30/2008

[redsx13]

how is the mechanical timing? you say it sounds as if it has cams in it... i had set mechanical timing wrong once... not too far off. and it sounded as if there was a large duration and lift set inside.

I diddnt check the timing with a light, but i did loosen the CAS and turn it in both directions. all that did was raise the idle up and down.

[exhsturbine]

well thats ignition timing.... but im sure your mechanical timing didnt just *jump* out. did you check for boost leaks, or get any other codes? all of your plugs are good, coilpacks are okay. ignition system is grounded. all of the basic easy stuff?

[otterman]

I don't care what anyone says.

I ran stock o2 sensor then switched to the fat one when I got my new o2 housing. Exact same ARFs and everything. Nothing changed.

Same thing with all my other friends who got new o2 housings.

To be honest, maybe it is different. But I dont think the o2 sensor in a SR does anything.

My friends sr didn't ever have a o2 sensor and the car was fine. Mine came unplugged from the harness (long story) and I didn't know it until the next time I changed my oil.

[redsx13]

well thats ignition timing.... but im sure your mechanical timing didnt just *jump* out. did you check for boost leaks, or get any other codes? all of your plugs are good, coilpacks are okay. ignition system is grounded. all of the basic easy stuff?

the plugs are brand new, i checked for boost leaks, and my ecu is not throwing any codes at all. Im pretty sure the ignition system is grounded. (doesnt that ground connect to the intake manifold or somewhere around there).

Here is a better rundown of the problem......

1. Normal idle is around 800, but when the motor is revved up, the rpms will drop to around 300- for a moment, almost die, and then come back up to 800.this happens everytime you rev it.

2. Idle is inconsitant, it sounds like a mis, but more like cams..... It almost sounds like it misses a spark now and then.

3. The problem described in #2 doesn't just happen at idle, it will happen when you hold the motor at any set rpm.

4. Max boost is 2-3psi

I do have an exhaust leak at the manifold

car has a tuned ecu, skyline maf, and injectors


Modified by redsx13 at 10:43 PM 9/30/2008

[duffman1278]

SET THE TPS!!! Its not hard. Look up on the FSM how to do it. It tells you the wires to use.

[otterman]

My TPS was off pretty bad once.

Here's what happened to my car.

You had basically two settings: Full throttle or brake.

You'd have to mash the gas pretty hard for it to go, and it would only go full throttle. Then as soon as you let off, it would be like you're slamming on the brake. It was pretty ****in annoying.

[redsx13]

My TPS was off pretty bad once.

Here's what happened to my car.

You had basically two settings: Full throttle or brake.

You'd have to mash the gas pretty hard for it to go, and it would only go full throttle. Then as soon as you let off, it would be like you're slamming on the brake. It was pretty ****in annoying.

If my tps is off, it cant be that bad, cus my car doesnt really do that.

i just put up a better description of the problem 2 posts up. hope it helps.
Modified by redsx13 at 11:26 PM 9/30/2008