is a KA-T worth it with a lot of miles?

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spooled240
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i hate to get off topic, but does having an lsd make drifting way easier or is it still doable? cuz it's hard to get my car in an oversteer without rain slick roads...either way, i'm still scared sh**less to get my car sideways at 30 mph and hit a street lamp or fly off the road...wet open parking lots ftw! lol


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DroptopDrifting
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ive had my 240 for 3 yrs now and honestly, i had become so accustomed to the stock feel of it where we used to go out drifting at between 60-70 mph on a daily basis and once i added power and changed my suspension, im almost scared to do that again. fastest ive gone sideways in my stock 240 was 95mph and after i added power/suspension, i'd say about 40mph is my top speed.im still getting used to the new feel of things. lsd or no lsd, you should learn on a stock car first and then slowly add and slowly feel it out. i still dont have any limited slip, but im sure it will make it a lil "easier" but you still gotta get used to it first.

btw obviously donuts are much easier with posi

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DroptopDrifting
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oh and for christsake, please do not get a motor off of ebay. everyone i know who had bought anything with a lot of parts/pieces to it or that was an expensive item for cheap, has gotten ripped off or atleast has had pieces missing and a whole lot of complaints. get motors from reliable importers. trust me, save yourself a headache.

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spooled240
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well don't believe everything you hear, there's good stuff and there's bad stuff on ebay. I don't know anything about those engines but I just like to keep my options open and not rule out ebay right away as a "headache". Either way you're getting a jdm engine from a junkyard, I can't imagine them being all that different if it passes comp. test, etc.

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DroptopDrifting
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i'd rather stick to heavy throttle if i wanted an sr. http://www.heavythrottle.complus they're only an hour from me. jdmracingmotors.com isnt bad either and they have a lot of motors, from CAs to RBs. good prices on there.and heavy throttle warranties everything, quick reputable service, and all motors have <30k miles. they get the best in the US, along with mckinnley motorsports in cali. honestly, between turbo240.com and amsperformance, brian crower, and JWT, your best bet is stick to the KA. but that's all up to you...

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spooled240
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i agree, if I had 4,000 to spend on a used jdm engine, i'd rather re-build a ka w/ lower comp, forged internals, etc. then turbo it diy style w/ a reflashed ecu . IMO, the only engine worth swapping is a bigger engine, like an inline six.

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DroptopDrifting
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agreed. it cost me about $3g for my whole setup. according to Vinny 10 racing i should be in the mid 13's. so we'll see when the track re-opens next year i might throw some camshafts in the mix, $257 for the pair from B.C. I wanna do pistons rods and rings, etc but that'll end up costing me like $1500 so i might just save for AMS's shortblock and eventually get their race head but i dunno thatll be a long time from now so i wont even think that far ahead....just went back to college so now im broke

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Zippy69
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KA is the best way to go. Cheaper, more aftermarket, easier to get parts when you break something or wear it out.I got 160k+ and I'm in the process of putting a t-25 with 550cc's and Enthalpy tune ecu. I plan to run @ 10psi and drive it daily. So do the honorable thing and boost that ka.Oh, to WD: I can't believe you said, 302 or 350? Sometimes words can hurt

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spooled240
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my setup cost me 3g's as well. T3/t4 turbo, jwt ecu, nismo 555's, n62 mafs all on the stock internals with 121000 miles. I drive my car on 9 psi daily to college (also the reason I'm a broke mother****er )and it is fast as hell..we ran a 14.6 at 98 mph on a hot night with a slipping clutch which is a good start..I put a centerforce df clutch recently but the local 1/4 mile we usually go to closed so I'm trying to find another 1/4 mile strip. hopefully, I can get into the mid 13's on a cold night permitting I get traction...it's hard for me to get hook with an open diff and the stock base 15x6's

nolanneuner
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Whats a good manifold to use if i want to keep a/c?

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WDRacing
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Zippy69 wrote:Oh, to WD: I can't believe you said, 302 or 350? Sometimes words can hurt
HAHAHAHAHA...well when talking about cheap power I always think small block. Even the old a$$ TB injected 350 I have in my Blazer makes 300 ftlbs over 2700 rpm...

Small blocks are 150 bucks, with a carb/manifold combo you're looking at $700. An adapter plate to use the stock transmission is $300ish, custom mototr mounts if done by someone else are $300 on the expensive side.

Add another $1000 for misc crap and you have a very fun and totally reliable street car.

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spooled240
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as far as I know revhard, jgs and many others. Mine is an ebay mani, which is good, but it positions the turbo too close to the master cylinder so I wouldn't recommend it. It's one of the things I would change on my current setup. Also, with my current mani, I had to fab a custom downpipe, cuz nothing was available which is sort of a big deal for most people. I think the jgs cast manifold is one of the best if you wanna keep your ac. Being a cast mani in contrast to a tubular, it will dissipate less heat, spool your turbo faster, be strong as hell, and it won't place your turbo to close to the mc..I would recommend the jgs mani, downpipe and power steering reservoir relocator and shazaam...you're DONE!

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ourmartyr
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nolanneuner wrote:Whats a good manifold to use if i want to keep a/c?
don't be a pansy, whats A/C anyways? haha. Just think of it as reducing parasitic drag...

nolanneuner
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I live in florida i cant walk to my car without breaking a sweat.

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spooled240
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haha i live in the ca desert and w/ out ac in the middle of summer you can sweat about 10 lbs and drench your clothes(gotta flip the undies inside out jk)..we don't live in the northern states where it's like 85 tops in summer lol

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2FourTee
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spooled240 wrote: I think the jgs cast manifold is one of the best if you wanna keep your ac. Being a cast mani in contrast to a tubular, it will dissipate less heat, spool your turbo faster, be strong as hell, and it won't place your turbo to close to the mc..I would recommend the jgs mani, downpipe and power steering reservoir relocator and shazaam...you're DONE!
Which JGS CAST manifold are you referring to?? You talking about this JGS, right??->> http://www.jgsturbo.com/index2.html

If so, that's not a cast manifold.
Modified by 2FourTee at 5:12 PM 10/2/2007

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spooled240
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yeah, it's more of a "thick pipe" exhaust manifold. They say it's made of cast carbon steel construction?..idk i was 99% sure it was a cast mani but it's pretty much a pipe w/ flanges welded on it so it can't be cast.. i must have got confused when they called it a "basic manifold" and compared it to the headers .

I would still recommend it for turbo placement and easier dp/wg pipe work for the average person

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coolbone28
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The premade mani that JGS sells is a cast manifold. You can see it if you look at the fitment pictures. Their manifold kits are just a regular log mani that you put together yourself and is just steel.

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spooled240
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Hey coolbone28, you're in hesperia?!I made a thread in the CA region, kinda sucks so far cuz i only have two replies other than myself..lol go check it out if you want..zerothread?id=281527

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2FourTee
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coolbone28 wrote:The premade mani that JGS sells is a cast manifold. You can see it if you look at the fitment pictures. Their manifold kits are just a regular log mani that you put together yourself and is just steel.
??? Looking at fitment pictures on JGS' website, I see welds where the flange meets the piping: http://www.jgsturbo.com/kamain.html#anchor69878

Now, the "Weld L's" they use to make it are cast carbon steel (and also maybe the flanges), but the manifold itself appears to be welded together.

If they now make a cast manifold, then ignore my statements, but in all the pics I see, there are welds holding the mani together.

Here's a pic of what a fully cast manifold looks like: http://www.treadstoneperforman...y=159


Modified by 2FourTee at 3:56 PM 10/3/2007

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2FourTee
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spooled240 wrote:yeah, it's more of a "thick pipe" exhaust manifold. They say it's made of cast carbon steel construction?..idk i was 99% sure it was a cast mani but it's pretty much a pipe w/ flanges welded on it so it can't be cast.. i must have got confused when they called it a "basic manifold" and compared it to the headers .

I would still recommend it for turbo placement and easier dp/wg pipe work for the average person
It's a great manifold. When I decide to step up to a bigger turbo, I will most likely go with the JGS log manifold.
Modified by 2FourTee at 11:21 AM 10/3/2007


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