The '16's were the first ones to use "Smart FET's" instead of fuses in the IPDM, and I'm pretty sure none of the Smart FET units respond to the IPDM Auto Active test. Nissan eliminated it from the IPDM software on all of the newest designs. God knows why, it was very useful.
The possible culprits vary slightly depending whether you have Auto or Manual A/C, but you can find full information on both types here...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FHAC.pdf
...and info on the IPDM here...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FPCS.pdf
...and harness layouts with connector locations here...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 6%2FPG.pdf
...,and info on other components in various other sections of the FSM.
The A/C Pressure Sensor is monitored by the ECM, so most good streaming scanners will have a PID for it. Rule of thumb is that you should see around 1V static and 1.5V with the compressor engaged. Both low
and high readings will cause the ECM to veto compressor turn-on. There are also two or three temperature sensors which can cause a non-functional compressor. Both types have an Ambient sensor in the grille and an Intake sensor attached to the evaporator. Auto A/C systems have an additional Cabin sensor in the centerstack behind the A/C controls. Rule of thumb is that all three should read a "middle voltage" someplace between 0.5~4V. Any 5V reading means the sensor (or sensor ground) is open circuit, which means the HVAC will think the car is in Siberia and will veto the compressor.